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Old 07-28-2020, 12:56 PM   #461
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Well, it is official. My camping season is over. And it may not happen next year either if history repeats itself.

I was able to get the water heater out - the easiest of anything I have done so far! It revealed unpleasant news though. Even though the OSB is solid, the floor joists are not. There is extensive rot. I can't tell how far forward it goes. There appears to be some of the metal underbelly sheets between the floor joists and the OSB in the back. That is probably what saved the OSB. I should be thankful but I have to cut good OSB to get to the rotted wood underneath.

Added note: Since this area will be opened up, I may consider replacing the converter. So, I may have questions about that sometime soon...maybe.
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Old 07-28-2020, 03:09 PM   #462
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Sorry to hear. Good luck!
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:58 AM   #463
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Bummer

But you can do this! We know you can! We are rooting for ya!

As always, we are here to help and support you. Just ask away.

John
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Old 08-09-2020, 01:22 AM   #464
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Hi Tommie,

How your bottom piece of metal was wedged in- I believe this is due to the trailer body sagging. Since your trailer is the earlier design where the walls were mounted to the outside of the floor, as the wall framing rots or even just sags (bends the fasteners?), the metal was wrapped around it and will get crushed in the process. I see that bottom piece crushed at the frame rail there quite often, and I think that's why.

Your rotted floor joints aren't helping that either. All the weight of the entire trailer body sits on that aluminum edge when the wood rots away. When I tore apart my 12 1/2' MC, while my floor wasn't completely rotted back there, I actually put a floor jack under that corner of the floor and lifted it up slightly off the frame to get the metal out. You could have done it with the bottle jack from your Expedition too, if you don't have a floor jack.
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Old 08-10-2020, 12:22 AM   #465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan View Post
Hi Tommie,

How your bottom piece of metal was wedged in- I believe this is due to the trailer body sagging. Since your trailer is the earlier design where the walls were mounted to the outside of the floor, as the wall framing rots or even just sags (bends the fasteners?), the metal was wrapped around it and will get crushed in the process. I see that bottom piece crushed at the frame rail there quite often, and I think that's why.

Your rotted floor joints aren't helping that either. All the weight of the entire trailer body sits on that aluminum edge when the wood rots away. When I tore apart my 12 1/2' MC, while my floor wasn't completely rotted back there, I actually put a floor jack under that corner of the floor and lifted it up slightly off the frame to get the metal out. You could have done it with the bottle jack from your Expedition too, if you don't have a floor jack.
Thanks Sunline Fan. If that is the case and if all of the wood is rotted in the corners, I am probably going to have to do a lot of guessing and recutting like I had to do for the front. I am in the process of cutting out the floor in that area so that the joists and support can be replaced. I am having a tough time. All of the screws and staples are rusted. I may need to use some kind of pry tool. It doesn't look like it but the OSB is solid. It is a shame I have to cut it up. I can't cut straight worth a you know what! All of the black spots seems to be either a staple or screw. The screw heads are too rusted to try to use normal tools. Ugh! I hate doing this part!
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Old 08-10-2020, 11:31 PM   #466
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Hi Tommie,

I found spots on the floor of my '79 that were white like that. I'm not sure if it's a glue they used or if it's mold. Either way, the gray area looks like where water got to it at one time, even if it wasn't enough to rot. Probably a good thing you're replacing the OSB there.
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Old 09-06-2021, 02:13 PM   #467
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Hello everyone,

It has been a while. I am finally getting the back wall put back together. It is not done as well as I would like but at least it will be usable again and the majority of the water exposed wood has been replaced. I will be putting the metal skin back on this weekend I hope. I am also replacing the old charge converter with a new Progressive Dynamics 30amp unit and will be posting pics soon to make sure I have it setup correctly. It seems pretty straight forward. I am in the process of making something to mount it and the new stuff.

That's all for now. Just wanted to give a quick update and say hello.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 09-06-2021, 09:18 PM   #468
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It looks like you are doing well, once again!

Good for you, we are rooting for ya!!

I see your pics flying across the top of the forum as the last new pics added. Your doing great!

John
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Old 09-12-2021, 09:31 AM   #469
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Hello.

So we were working on getting the metal siding on the back of the trailer. We were doing a test fit. In my excitement, I stapled down the ends. I meant to take it all out and put a few staples across. But I got ahead of myself and stapled down the ends. Everything is matched up perfectly. Will those missing staples cause an issue? I believe there were about 3 staples going across the bottom of each piece. Please see picture below. Thank you in advance.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 09-23-2021, 09:40 PM   #470
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Hi Tommie,

Sorry, I have been tied up lately and just saw your message. Here are my thoughts on the missing staples.

I found this pic of your back wall so I could see how many wall studs you have across the back wall.


Ideally the siding is stapled at "all" wall studs. And in your case, there are only 2 studs across the entire back wall not including the corners. There is not a lot of attachment there. Sunline added many more studs as the years went on.

These things come down to a judgment call many times, in this case, I would recommend you add the missing staples at the center wall studs. The reasoning for this is two fold.

1. The siding being stapled to the wall studs, does add a level of rigidity to the camper. While the inside wall board being glued and stapled in some cases, adds a more major part of rigidity, the camper is built to too use all the rigidity it can get, to sustain the vibration and twisting of towing down the road. If your camper was not being towed, the issue is not as bad, but I believe you plan to tow the camper to different campgrounds.

2. Without the center wall studs being stapled with the siding, the siding joint from sheet to sheet may be affected and pucker out from the twisting of the camper when towing. I know I can pop a piece of siding joint apart by flexing the sheet. I do this on purpose some times when doing repairs. Since you only have 2 wall studs across the entire width of the camper, missing those 2 attachment points, in time may cause a siding pucker at the joint given the right flexing conditions when towing.

I know this means back tracking a little, the good news, I'm hoping this is only the bottom pieces below the window. I too, have had to back track on siding, it happens, but you are armed with the know how to overcome the issue. You will sleep better knowing you corrected the issue.

Keep up the good work. It will not take you long to reset those few pieces and move on.

Good luck,

John
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Old 09-24-2021, 11:43 AM   #471
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Got it! Thank you so much JohnB! Very much appreciated.

Tommie
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Old 11-23-2021, 10:17 PM   #472
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Just a quick update. The back wall is fully installed. Still need to apply Dicor and still need to repaint the interior side walls. I am having an issue with the entry door. It does not look straight to me. That will be a Spring project. The issues just keep coming.
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Old 11-24-2021, 03:10 PM   #473
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Looking good Tommy!

Thanks for sharing.

Next spring will hopefully be here quickly. I'm ready for it, and winter really has not yet begun, but the cold is setting in. I put the snow fence up 2 days ago. I'm hoping it will scare the snow away.... ha ha, but one has to hope...

John
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