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Old 01-23-2018, 03:05 PM   #381
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Kinda’ funny. Your camper is a T1550 and the model of your truck is T15506.
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Old 01-23-2018, 06:01 PM   #382
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Hi Tommie,

Those 2 pics of your trucks door sticker and the receiver ratings are very helpful. I was mixed up on year/model GMC you have. Your 2002 Envoy is like the Chevy Trailblazer just with more GMC branded goodies inside. Yours is not the prior S15 small SUV they made. I forget when they stopped the S15 line, it was around the early 2001 ish times. I think the Envoy name was both the last S15 and then the next new larger Envoy that replaced the next year. Yours may be that first replacement year.

The next set of questions and your hitch make a great post all by itself. Do you mind creating a separate post in the Towing forum? I can move your last post with the pics and this reply over into that new post if you want after you create one.

Does your Envoy have 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive?

Is yours the shorter one or the XL longer one?

By any chance do you know the rear axle ratio? If not take a picture of all the RPO codes in the glove compartment and we can figure it out. There is a sticker there with a boat load of 3 digit number codes, one for just about every item in the truck. It's a GM thing and helpful.

Do you know the ball height of the camper? Means with the camper on flat ground, the distance from the ground up to the top of the ball coupler with the camper parallel to the ground or level if the parking spot is level. I suspect this camper had a low ball height. Maybe 16 or 17" and that can affect which WD hitch can fit and not hit the ground.

I found some info on WD hitches that are small enough that could fit your camper if you find you need one. Before I start posting all this, let me know if you want a separate post and the info above.

Thanks

John
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Old 01-23-2018, 07:28 PM   #383
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Thanks JohnB. The new thread has been created.


Tommie
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Old 02-05-2018, 10:55 AM   #384
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Good afternoon,

Not exactly warm weather today but
Not freezing either. Decided to explore some more of the interior. Looking at the bathroom vent today. Not in the best shape but given the age not in the worst shape either. Here’s my concern. Looks like some water maybe coming in around what I’m guessing is the gasket for the bathroom vent. As you can see, it is covered with mold and coming loose from the vent opening. It looks like an easy fix.




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Old 02-05-2018, 12:30 PM   #385
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Hi Tommie,

Your roof vent, odds are high that is not the original. Or at least the plastic cover. The metal lower rim/shield "might be". Back then they made them a lot better than the ones today.

The moldy yuk on the rim to dome gasket, I have seen that before. It can come from condensation dampness even with Maxx Air covers over the entire vent. It gets some condensation and over time their is dirt/dust and soon black yuk starts. It only takes about 3 to 5 years to get this.

Being your some VA, snow is not unheard off but not as common as up north. Point I'm getting at, that upper gasket seal really should not be leaking from rain water. It may from packed snow several inches deep and thawing. To show you what I'm getting at, see here

The top of the gasket you see on the inside is about 1 1/2" to 2" above the roof. It is under the plastic dome that has about a 3/4" lip on it




So rain water does not normally get up that high. But condensation on the cold metal for sure can and maybe snow build up can. I have had this issue myself. And I have replaced the gasket when it was sun baked into almost dust and this is under the Maxx air covers.

You can clean the black yuk, crank up the cover, and then reach around with some spray cleaner and rag and wipe off what you can. The gasket pushes on down from the top. The thin metal is sticking up into a slit in the gasket. Sometimes the gaskets have to be glued on so they do not fall off. The manufacturer does glue them on new when they sell them. Over time the glue cracks and it lets loose.

This pic though is hard to tell as it is dark, does it look like water stains on the wood? Is the wood wet to touch? I cannot really tell from the pic it is dark.


This is what I bought to replace mine. I had to silicone glue it on. And I once on and the silicone hardened up I wiped some 303 UV protectant on it. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...VD0455-01.html

Hope this helps

John
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:54 PM   #386
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Thanks JohnB.

See if this looks better. I did not scale this one down so you should be able to zoom in a little.

Red - This is where the gasket has come loose.
Blue - Looks like water trails.
Yellow - Looks like discoloration from water. Wood is still solid. Nothing is wet.



Also, I went in looking to see if it was prewired for a vent fan. I do not see any wires. Is there a way to wire that location? The light fixture is not on the ceiling. It is on the wall. If not, then I will just replace the gasket, screen, and interior trim.


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Old 02-05-2018, 01:27 PM   #387
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Pretty much all the Sunlines I bought used had moldy vent gaskets. They aren't easy to access to clean, as you know you have to disassemble a lot of the vent to do that, so people just don't. I cleaned all three of mine in the '97- gaskets were all fine, just dirty.

Can't help you on the wiring for the fan. I seem to recall my '86 having a fan there, but maybe it didn't. They were standard in Sunlines for many, many years.
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Old 02-05-2018, 04:03 PM   #388
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Tommie,

With the gasket out of location, there may have been something in the past to create water flying in. Since normally, the crank mechanism is on the hinge side which normally points towards the front of the camper, (check if it does) towing in a heavy rain may have worked its way in. That could explain the wet stain trail and hardwood. If it was leaking between the roof itself and the seal to the roof flange, then odds are higher the wood would of been soggy as this is nothing new.

I would say clean it up, get the seal back on and if you have to, gorilla tape it seal to the metal on the side to keep it in place. When I did mine, I was on the roof with the lid off. Everything was out in the open. You may be able to do this from inside with the lid open, it will be a little tougher but may get you through so you do not have to go on the roof.

On the wire, I can't help much on that one. I have not "yet" had one of these old one opened up. And with no light in the ceiling, it makes it a lot tougher to fish a wire up there.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 02-05-2018, 05:39 PM   #389
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Thanks JohnB.

Yes, the hinge side points to the front which is the same side as the crank handle. I am not going to worry about the vent fan right now. Hopefully, cracking a window and the de-humidifier will suffice. I am ordering a new gasket for the vent.

Thanks,
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Old 02-05-2018, 05:43 PM   #390
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Thanks Sunline Fan.

I think I will just go ahead and replace the gasket. I am not sure how long it has been molded. I am replacing the screen and moulding as they are discolored and very brittle.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 02-06-2018, 06:31 AM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
Thanks Sunline Fan.

I think I will just go ahead and replace the gasket. I am not sure how long it has been molded. I am replacing the screen and moulding as they are discolored and very brittle.

Thanks,
Tommie
Good idea. These Ventline parts are easy enough to find still too, so that certainly helps.

Last year, I painted one of my shrouds and screens because they turned yellow. The shroud cracked slightly when I had it removed, but I painted it anyway. I really should replace it. The screen seemed harmless enough, but I had some white paint sneak under the tape (it doesn't stick to screen very well), so now I have white shadows.
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:52 AM   #392
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Good afternoon.

So frustrated right now! It just seems that I run into one issue after another!

It was in the 50s here yesterday so I decided to get the rest of the screws in the corner trim. Well...the curb side has gaps between the siding and the trim on the outer edge. Not surprising for that side since that is the side I had the most issues with. On the street side, the trim matched up perfectly. But when I screwed it in, it will not go all the way back to cover the edge of the siding. The edge of the siding is exposed. I can run my finger nail against the edge. I don’t have good pics yet. Once I get over being frustrated, I will take more.


Thanks,
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:07 AM   #393
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:20 AM   #394
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Hi Tommie,

I sense your frustration... I'll wait for the pics to get a better feel for the magnitude of the problem.

This one I think I can figure out the issue from the words.
Quote:
On the street side, the trim matched up perfectly. But when I screwed it in, it will not go all the way back to cover the edge of the siding. The edge of the siding is exposed. I can run my finger nail against the edge. I don’t have good pics yet.
If I'm understanding it correctly, I'll explain and then ask. On the corner molding, it has 2 sides or legs. The front of the camper side has the screw holes in the corner leg. And the slot for a vinyl screw cover. The side of the camper side of the molding has no screws and is normally shorter then in leg length then the front with the screws. Tell me if I have that right on yours.

The issue is, the screws will not draw the molding tight enough for the side short leg to cover over the siding (on the side wall). Assuming I have that right, here is how I overcome it.

When installing I heat gun warm the butyl and heat gun warm the siding exposed corner too. Do the entire length of the molding and the siding corner. Get it fairly warm. Then when you go to screw the molding on, the butyl will ozz and spread and compress all the air pockets closed and some may even ozz out the exposed edge. This allows the short leg on the side with no screws to go on further.

If what I described is the problem, I'm assuming the molding is all screwed on now, then just heat gun heat the entire molding and shoot the gun also into the exposed edges between the siding and the molding to get the heat into the butyl. You will need to warm it pretty good but not so much that you are burning the paint, that for sure is too much.

I'm assuming you are using a square bit in a cordless drill motor with a clutch on it. Once all warmed up, set the clutch up a little higher in torque and re-tighten the screws. It should draw in further. Start the tightening process one screw after another wherever you start. After about 6 to 12 screws, if the molding stops moving in, warm it some more and then restart the tightening.

I have had to do this often, once the screws stop drawing it on and in some cases once a screw strips out the wood, Stop, leave that screw in place, drill a hole for a fresh screw an inch away etc. reheat the area and put a fresh screw in. Sunline even had to do this on some of the campers I redid. When I see excess screws in an area, they had a draw up issue.

Even at 50F out you can gain benefit from the heat gun warming. The cold camper metal is sucking any heat away real quick, so warm it up. About the only time I have found I do not need to heat, is in the dead heat of summer when the camper metal is up at 80 to 90F by the sun.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:33 AM   #395
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By the lack of screws in the molding, this is the sidewall of the camper, correct?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine View Post
By chance do you have a picture of that corner with no molding on yet?

That looks like about a good 1/4" maybe 3/8" exposed tan which sounds like the front wall was very far forward towards the tongue OR the siding on the side of the camper somehow was pulled back.

I'll wait to see if you by chance had a pic before the molding went on. Looking for how far the side of the camper siding came to the very edge at the end of the corner.

Also take a few pic's on the front wall of that corner now assembled. I'm looking to see what the exposed butyl gap is between the molding and the siding. That will tell part of this story too, how wide is that gap. Sometimes in some places the gap goes almost to zero gap on a high ridge of siding and then it can be 1/8" in other places. If you are a lot more then 1/8" gap, that would be good to know too.

Thanks

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Old 02-07-2018, 11:40 AM   #396
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This is the only other pic I can find of that corner. I am still looking for more. Hard to see on my cell phone.

Thanks,
Tommie




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Old 02-07-2018, 12:09 PM   #397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
By the lack of screws in the molding, this is the sidewall of the camper, correct?
Yep.

That looks like about a good 1/4" maybe 3/8" exposed tan which sounds like the front wall was very far forward towards the tongue OR the siding on the side of the camper somehow was pulled back.
Where the tan meets the black is the front edge of the metal siding. Not much of the siding on that side was taken off, only a couple of pieces, the pieces between the short piece next to the window and the short piece next to the cargo door. Those that were taken off were lined back up with the existing when they were put back on. I did not have to take off nearly as much on that side as I did the curb side. I did take the window and cargo door out which helped reach some of the bad wood so that I would not have to remove a lot of the siding.


Also take a few pic's on the front wall of that corner now assembled. I'm looking to see what the exposed butyl gap is between the molding and the siding. That will tell part of this story too, how wide is that gap. Sometimes in some places the gap goes almost to zero gap on a high ridge of siding and then it can be 1/8" in other places. If you are a lot more then 1/8" gap, that would be good to know too.
I will try to take pics when I get home. It is usually almost dark by the time I get there. But there is butyl tape oozing out of the front but none was oozing out the side at all. The weather man was calling for rain today so I have since filled the gaps with butyl tape since the tarp is leaking badly now. Not sure if I should have done that but did not want to take a chance of water getting in. The tarp is coming to its end of life I think.
I hope I am making sense.

Thanks,
Tommie
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:27 PM   #398
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OK got it. No worries on adding more butyl stuff in the skips. That was good to do with rain and a questionable tarp.

By the side pic without the molding, from that angle it does not look that bad. My thinking is the front screw side leg is not drawn in far enough to the camper. And the fact I'm not seeing much of any butyl out the side wall short leg side.

When you have time, look at the front wall and see how big the gap is between the siding the the molding leg with the screws on that side. My gut feel now is that gap is big. You may just need to heat it up, and draw it in more. This will help ozz and fill the short side leg too.

The good news, from your pic the siding goes all the way to the corner. There is no exposed wood there. This is much easier to deal with after seeing that pic.

I think you are just fighting the front side with the screws is not drawn up far enough.

Hope this helps

John

PS. I know you are frustrated, but you are doing really great! Putting corners on is one of the hardest things dealing with the siding, especially with the front bent knee and top angle. After one learns more of the tricks of doing it, it does get easier but it still a "process". You will get past this, we have faith in you!

PS2. I wish we had 50F yesterday.... Snow storm last night. Schools closed today and had to plow/shovel out. This Friday and Saturday it is supposed to get up to 38. Ya Hoo!!!! Maybe I can work on the camper some.
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Old 02-07-2018, 04:08 PM   #399
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These are not that great in quality but hopefully will help.

Street side front view. This is the front of the pic posted earlier.


Here are some pics of the curb side.


Thanks,
Tommie


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Old 02-07-2018, 06:25 PM   #400
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Hi Tommie, The pics do help, Thanks

Quote:
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Street side front view. This is the front of the pic posted earlier. These 2 look normal. Just some trimming and clean up.



Here are some pics of the curb side. Let's look at this side.

This pic does not look really bad but I cannot tell how far on the molding is. the tan siding exposed seems to want to make us think the molding it not fully on but did they have a bunch of caulk goop there trying to create a seal? The goop could explain why the tan is showing.



This pic shows there needs to be more butyl packed into those gaps. Just take some off the roll and press it in. But the molding does not look that bad as far as location. We can also see in this pick the tan is exposed at the top but by the bottom, the white is up to the molding showing the molding is all the way on. And the molding is not on an angle. They must of had a lot of caulking goop trying to seal it up.


This pic, it is hard to tell with the darkness but we can see there is a larger then wanted gap between the molding and siding. In this area, warm up the molding both sides, front and curb side. Do a long distance, like 3 feet or more. Then try re-tightening the screws. If the wood starts to strip, stop. You can add extra screws, just drill a hole in the molding about 1" away from a screw in the center and warm up the molding and drive a new one home. You may need to add few extra screws


This area looks tighter. Hard to tell from the lighting But I'm not seeing much butyl ozz. It may be you did not put much butyl on in this area. I would try the warm it up and tighten to see if you gets some more movement. Before starting that, pack some butyl into those gaps, press it in good with a putty knife. Warm as needed to help get it in, then warm the area and re-tighten. This one should move fairly quick as it is not going to go much further.
I will throw out one more trick. It is my last go to one. I always have to do this when doing a rear wall top roof molding seam. Here we need the top molding tight to the back of the camper while you are screwing down the roof screws. Your older camper may not be made this way as I think the roof is seamed to the siding on the metal roofs.

Here is what I am talking about. See the rear roof cap molding along the back wall. We start in the middle with the first screw and work our way to the outside, one left side then one right side and back and forth on the screwing down.


Here is the trick, I have used this wherever needed. That rear roof molding is almost a must as this molding seems to want to curl backwards and not stay attached to the back wll. But I have used it on corners sometimes when that molding does does not want to cooperate. Which is usually at a bend in the molding area.

For sure, warm the area. The with 2 x 4 about a 18" long held on the 90 deg edge and using a dead blow hammer, (it has little balls or shot inside) I hit the 2 x 4 and the force is going into the 90 degree corner of the molding. This presses in 2 directions, down and in. On a corner molding, it would be the front and side wall both get some impact.


I normally do this "before" the screws are in. Meaning I have screws in ahead of the 2 x 4 and that piece is down good. The next section is not screwed down yet so the hammer hits move the molding more. If you do not have a dead blow hammer, a regular one will work.

The wood block force hit is sort of your last resort. Try the warming and screw tightening first.

I do not know how much butyl you put into the corner. I normally over pack it. Since the molding is so wide, it takes me 2 pieces of sealing tape to cover the whole molding.

Here is the first piece


Then add a second one. It over hangs the molding, I have some excess waste


I also fill the corrugations in the siding with extra butyl


Notice the extra screws added. And the ozz is for sure there. Both sides


Yours appears to just need some extra butyl stuffed in, a warming, retighten, add screws as needed and rewarm again before screwing in the new screws. You want to drive them home at a little higher torque.

While yes, I'm seeing some gaps that can be closed up, but this is not real bad. Your doing good, just keep going.

Did you warm the butyl and siding before you installed?

Did you have extra butyl in the corrugations?

It's OK if you did not this time, I would not take the molding off due to it, just to know for next time. It adds more forgiveness and fills in the holes and valleys.

Hope this helps

John
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