Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Technical Forums > Repairs and Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-11-2021, 08:31 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Illinois
Posts: 12
SUN #12353
claybuddy is an unknown quantity at this point
Wavy roof eeek! What does this mean?

This is the first ROOF bath we have given our Sunline 2363 since we bought her in the fall of last year. The vent covers sure R dirty. I did not get on top of the roof, I did it all by ladder and hand /Pole scrubbing with diluted Awesome cleaner. I scrubbed the old dicor (all that I could reach). I noticed the roof is not tight but is wavy. I have no known leaks or soft spots in the walls or ceilings inside. She really is pristine inside.floor and carpet look as good a new.
Bottom line I want to keep her that way. But what am I going to do with this feeling in my gut about a wavy roof?! Iíve posted some pics, I donít think they tell the story well enough. I bathed her Monday and put new dicor on Tuesday, (over the old ) I am looking for feed back about the roof and also cracks in dicor. Any advise as to how to prolong the roof? Or a company that would put a new roof on? I got a response back from RV ARMOR -base price 3,650.00! For roof 25FT and up. & Rv Armorís response to me telling them it is not a walk on roof was.. ďI donít know how we would replace your roof if we canít walk on it and I donít see that you have a ladder on your trailerĒ. Those responses were quite weird for a company that replaces roofs. So what is your thoughts? Please. check out my profile for more roof pics all from today.
__________________

__________________
claybuddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2021, 11:36 PM   #2
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 11,729
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi Claybuddy,

I see you were able to get pics to show up in a post. GREAT, good for you. This really helps.


You mentioned cracks in the Dicor. Do you mean in this pic of the roof antenna?


The focus of the pic being fuzzy makes it hard to see the detail of cracking. But, in general I will say this. Any cracks in Dicor is not good. Tiny hair line cracks are the start of a problem, especially on a camper going into winter as water if it is going to be stored outside uncovered. Water can get into the tiny cracks, it freezes, expands and makes the tiny crack bigger. The more thaw and freeze cycles, the bigger the issue can be.

Also, the gray antenna cable boot that goes into the ceiling of the camper, if you lift/slide that boot up the cable, there is suppose to be Dicor caulk sealing the cable to the aluminum housing. You can see a hole the wire goes down. That caulking sometimes is missed, lift the boot up and check it. If it is missing or questionable, caulk it to fill and seal the wire in the hole and put the boot back done. That cable hole is a direct leak into the camper attic if it is not sealed. And over time, years worth, the boot wiggles up the wire exposing the wire hole.

If you can get a more clear pic of the cracks, we can help better.

The waviness. The pics do not show this clear enough, just yet, but this pic does look suspect.


The amount of drooping of the roof between the rafters is not a normal looking thing, with that many of them like that. And on a 2006 camper. Seeing one two, that can be flex in the camper making it happen and the droop can change when the camper is moved. But, unless the picture is misleading, something is not yet explaining seeing that much droop sort of all over the roof.

It is hard to see the wavy in the other pics of yours to confirm better. The camera does not want to seem to focus to show the amount of wave in that many places. Suggest this to maybe help that we can see it better. If you have a 4 foot level, a yard stick, a straight board or something you can place over the top of several rafters as a straight line of reference. Then take pics of the wavy mid sections showing the dips and the straight edge. And if you can measure in the middle the max depth of the droop, it can put context to how good or bad the problem is.

If you feel with your hand those droopy areas, do they have a rubber band feeling to them or are the semi stiff, but flexible?

I am going to point you towards a moisture meter. This can help prove if there is water damage in the attic of the camper or not. Just because you do not see any signs of water damage inside the camper, does not mean you do not have it in the attic and walls. By the time you can see camper water damage in the living space, the damage may have been continually getting wet over a really long time, in some cases, years worth. Campers do not leak like a house does. You cannot use a house a good comparisons if that may be your thinking.

Here is info on the moisture meter https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...per-17613.html

You can scan the walls and ceiling inside and you can try and scan the roof down to see if moisture is present on the other side. The post explains how the meter works, how to use it, and at the end of the 1st post, is a picture file with how to help understand what the percent moisture in wall mode on the meter is.

On the RV armor comments, I'll comment on this later, I'm out out time now.

See what you can do to try and clear up the roof pics, so we can help better.

Hope this helps

John
__________________

__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2021, 11:56 PM   #3
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 11,729
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Here is a few more quick comments.

This pic of yours from your forum photo album,


While I cannot see the waviness very well, the camera focused on the gutter rail and I can see the Dicor caulk has shrunk which can start a leak if left go long enough. I drew on your pic so you can see this


At the arrows, the caulk is almost shrunk off the white aluminum edge of the gutter rail. That small crack looking feature can allow water to get to the butyl tape and screws behind the gutter.

This pic where you caulked by the fridge vent, you covered the gutter rail top sealing it very well. Just do that same sealing on top where ever the gutter rail is not covered on top.



Here is the process I use on these gutter rails. The factory really did not caulk over far enough originally. It may have looked OK when new, but over time the caulk can shrink and it can create a small gap not touching the aluminum top of the gutter rail molding. This is how I do the gutter rail. In this case I am using non leveling Dirco on the gutter rail, it is easier to work with, but the self leveling can work too, if that is all you have.

I start with putting a small bead of Dicor at the joint.


Then using a soapy wet finger, (I use Dawn dish soap in a cup of water) I spread the caulk to force the caulk onto the entire top of the gutter rail small edge and the roof rubber.



It looks like this when done


You did good on areas you did caulk. Good job!

Hope this helps

John

PS. if you want to attach more then 6 pics to the end of a post, just start another reply and add 6 more. The pic attach feature only allows 6 pic per post. But, you can also link in pics from your photo album as many as needed.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2021, 01:51 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Illinois
Posts: 12
SUN #12353
claybuddy is an unknown quantity at this point
Wavy roof concerns

Thanks John,
I didnít see this till I finished my mssg to you.
Your bead of caulk trick is great! I Iíd do this on one side of the camper! But I used self-leveling dicor and used my finger and spit! :lol. I thought I was being to over worried by doing it that way, but with your confirmation, Iím going to do the side you pointed too also. (Well if I get a ďwarm dayĒreprieve) itís lightly snowing here off & on & temps are 34. Next Tuesday 60ís again. Keeping my fingerís crossed cause I want to put my cover on so bad. I may get up there to do the measure/leveling when itís not so slick, Iím already wounded from all the roof scrubbing. & as I said hubby is recapping from shoulder surgery. Your such a great resource! LaterÖ.
__________________
claybuddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2021, 02:16 PM   #5
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Illinois
Posts: 12
SUN #12353
claybuddy is an unknown quantity at this point
Wavy roof

Oh forgot to say: the rubber is stiff but flexible. But even a day after her bath the roof was cool and damp feeing. Hubby suggested that if Iím really concerned I could rent a storage unit and work in there to put a coating on it. Tempted to get on the roof but itís rainy w sleet and windy cold, not a good combo.
__________________
claybuddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2021, 07:20 PM   #6
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 11,729
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by claybuddy View Post
Thanks John,

snip...

Your bead of caulk trick is great! I I’d do this on one side of the camper! But I used self-leveling dicor and used my finger and spit! :lol. I thought I was being to over worried by doing it that way, but with your confirmation, I’m going to do the side you pointed too also. (Well if I get a “warm day”reprieve)

I may get up there to do the measure/leveling when it’s not so slick, I’m already wounded from all the roof scrubbing. & as I said hubby is recapping from shoulder surgery. Your such a great resource! Later….
Hi claybuddy,

Thanks for the good words. Much appreciated. We have many helpful folks here on the forum, all different backgrounds willing to help as they can.

Yes, do the other side too when conditions allow you to. I was taking a camper apart yesterday and I found perfect pictures to show exactly what I was talking about. See here:

Here is a pic showing the problem. Sunline actually missed this and in their defense, it may not have been a miss on day one when they caulked it. But as time goes by and the caulk shrinks, it can pull away from molding or the roof rubber if there is not enough overlap. In this case, the gutter rail was the problem.


Here is a close up


Now to show what can happen when that shrink issue occurs. I was removing the roof, so I scraped the old caulk off. And I could see the start of dirt down at the joint between the side of the roof butyl sealing tape and the molding. You can see the dirt line in the joint between roof and molding if you look close.


Here I circled it


Now what happens behind the gutter rail molding. Lets have a look as I remove the molding.


A close up. Water and dirt is working it's way down between the gutter rail and the rubber roof heading to a screw hole that then rusts the screws, then later can wick water into the attic of the camper.


Sadly, some manufactures or dealers do not caulk the top of the gutter rail. It is left un caulked. And Sunline while they do it most of the time, we had one club member not have it on his. So it "happens". From my experience restoring older camper, you want that gutter rail joint caulked well.

I have seen this same thin caulk/shrink issue on the front siding to roof molding and the rear roof to back wall molding. These areas are devastating if not done well. Front and rear roof seams leaks are classic leak spots, especially at the 4 corners. The caulk bead has to touch the molding and the rubber roof with a good overlap so when it shrinks over time, it does not create a water path under the molding.

Thanks

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2021, 08:14 PM   #7
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 11,729
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by claybuddy View Post
Oh forgot to say: the rubber is stiff but flexible. But even a day after her bath the roof was cool and damp feeing. Hubby suggested that if Iím really concerned I could rent a storage unit and work in there to put a coating on it. Tempted to get on the roof but itís rainy w sleet and windy cold, not a good combo.
The weather is not on your side right now. We even had light snow here today. It did not accumulate much, but this is very early for such white madness already.

If you have a camper cover, yes, put it on when you can for the winter. Try and get some measurements with the straight edge and some more in focus pics before you put the cover on if possible. That will get you through the winter. We can talk more on your wavy issues and come spring you can be better armed to get back at it.

Thinking about this, I came up with two ways that waviness could happen if it is as large as the pictures look. But, I do not want to get you all worked up on them if we have a picture anomaly going on. Get the pics and dimensions and we can go from there.

To your comments on coating the roof and RV Armor. From what I know, RV Armor, a really good place, has a dealer network install their products. You are the second Sunline owner I know of who had a issue when telling them your camper did not have a walk on roof. I was not on the call on the other member, and they did not know enough to explain to them how to do it. The end result of the call, was they would not attempt to do it without a wavier of damage liability signed off and their would be extra cost as they have not done non walk on roofs before and where leery of it.

I am not sure "all" the RV Armor dealers would have this issue, but it seems the one you called and the one the other member called has not run into how to service campers that do not have full 3/8" thick of thicker decking for a direct walk on roof. There are other brands other then Sunline with the non direct walk on roofs. And all of those roofs need caulking maintenance regardless. '

There is a way to coat Sunline roofs. We have had several members already do it with acrylic coating products. However, the type of coating RV Armor is selling is very different.

I have been doing research and experiments on mocked up Sunline roofs since January this year (and one brand is a sister company of RV Armor) on two brands of high solids silicone roof coatings with 50 year and lifetime coatings warranties on the coating. And in early October, I installed my first roof high solids silicone roof coating on a Sunline non walk-on roof. Over this winter, I will be doing my second Sunline with more to follow as I continue to work on my project campers.

I will be making a post in the semi near future on how I did all this and what it takes to do it. Then you can see what is involved and decide if this option is something you want to do.

I will say this, before any type of roof coating is put on, the roof should be checked for water damage, and the damage corrected before the coating is applied if you plan on keeping the camper a good long time.

In addition to water damage, one needs to think about how long they are going to want to keep the camper? Two years, 5 years, 10 plus years? Before coating the roof, consider thinking about replacing roof mounted items that sun damage makes them fail; like the shower dome, the fridge roof vent and base, the black and grey tanks vents, cranks up roof vents and any other plastic items mounted to the roof. If you are going to install a good coating, that lasts 10 years, 50 years or lifetime, do you want to coat over the mounting of heavily sun damaged plastic roof items that only have a few years left on them before they need to be replaced? Some may make sense to replace before the coating, others maybe you wait and correct the coating damage done during the laster install.

From what I have seen, a camper that has lived outside all the time, not being covered, here in the mid west or north east, after 10 to 15 years, the roof plastic items can be in need of, or very close to having failures of cracks and leaks. These items in the big picture do not cost that much compared to the water damage they can create if not corrected before they fail.

Point in all this, as a friendly heads up, understand how good or bad your roof is now. Yes, correct all caulking sealant ASAP. And you have done this or a good part of it. Good for you! Then take some time to learn about, ask questions and then figure out when the right time is for a roof coating. With a good RV cover on your camper, it should not take on any more water issues with the cover on. Also, consider getting the moisture meter I linked you too. You can scan the inside of the camper and learn a lot about water intrusion or lack of. Then you are not guessing. Do not think just because you cannot see it, does not mean it is not there. Also, the moisture meter will not work on frozen wet wood. So scanning a wet camper in frozen conditions will not pic up the water damage. And in heavy dampness, like thawing out in the spring, the camper has so much extra dampness it in, it can give false high readings as the meter is reading the extra moisture on ether walls etc.

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask questions and read up on things over the winter or anytime.

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2021, 04:09 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Illinois
Posts: 12
SUN #12353
claybuddy is an unknown quantity at this point
Thumbs up Wavy roof dilemma contíd thanks John for all the info

Ok, I got a 60 degree day today wed nov 17th) got out there to the Solaris B & B and caulked the antenna area, roof vents. I will tell yaí one ting I did 2 maybe 3 times IS after caulking the railing seams I reached order and caulked the roof top itemsÖÖnot the best ting taí do as I GOT SEAM caulk messed up and my clothes all sticky white! CHEEZE! Not to bright I am SO. Bummed I am not ept at getting on the roof to take the covers off to check the caulk, man that seems like such a hassle. Especially concerning the wavy ness and no plywood prepared (sanded or carpet to place). I was gonna use a 8 x 10 board but that was a suggestion by a by stander. So I aborted. Temp dropping anyway. Also my caulk job from last Tuesday has fallen leaves stuck in it! Just not a good ting ta do ..caulking in the late late fall.
Well I got up there and to the best of my girl brainÖput the level on the wavy roof for pictures. I took a video too, but not sure Iíll be able to up load, Iíll attempt it anyway. Thanks for all the feed back and great information John
So here goes
__________________
claybuddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2021, 06:17 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Tinstaafl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 272
SUN #10986
Tinstaafl is an unknown quantity at this point
I'll leave the roof analysis to John, but the way to post a video here is to upload it to YouTube and then post a link to that. There's no way to do it directly with this forum software.
__________________
Tinstaafl is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2021, 11:58 AM   #10
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 11,729
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by claybuddy View Post

Snip...

Ok, I got a 60 degree day today wed nov 17th) got out there to the Solaris B & B and caulked the antenna area, roof vents.

Well I got up there and to the best of my girl brainÖput the level on the wavy roof for pictures. I took a video too, but not sure Iíll be able to up load, Iíll attempt it anyway. Thanks for all the feed back and great information John
So here goes

Helping Claybuddy with posting 2 roof videos and one entry door pic. so folks following along can see and add comments they think may be creating the roof waviness. I will comment on these later.

Here is the entry door siding rips.


The next two videos are uploaded to my Flickr photo hosting account here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/camper...57720133496679

This is an overall video looking across the roof. After clicking the link, it will take you to my Flickr site. There is a viewer embedded on the site, press the play button in the middle of the screen, and the video will play. You can expand the video to a larger screen by clicking the arrow heads on the top right of the screen.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/camper...7720133496679/

This is a video near the roof AC unit showing Claybuddy pressing the roof up and down. As with the first video above, this link will take you to the Flickr site and you can view the video.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/camper...7720133496679/


John
__________________

__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
Lapointe
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fuse Panel Light Illuminated - what does it mean? mmyerspa Repairs and Maintenance 12 06-07-2018 08:31 AM
Wavy exterior wall Rt.239Design Repairs and Maintenance 31 05-14-2018 11:15 AM
Does anyone have pictures of a "healthy" aluminum roof? noralee Repairs and Maintenance 2 07-08-2014 12:41 AM
A 249SR does EXIST !!! kanyonkitty Sunline Slide Room Travel Trailers 2 08-27-2007 11:06 PM


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:55 PM.


×