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Old 05-11-2014, 07:23 AM   #301
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Well, this technically doesn't apply to "today", but last night, and at this point again today I embarked in the super simple process of swapping out my Old Reese electric tongue jack for a new unit I purchased after the reese decided it no longer wanted to lower itself (the motor runs fine, but nothing happens, other than me getting annoyed). But hey, brand new jack, 3 bolts, one wire, what can go wrong, right? HA! Long story short, the hole on the top of the tongue is perfectly round, but the one on the lower support gusset is slightly oval shaped, almost if it had been cut by a torch, although it wasn't. The shaft of the Reese clearly is very slightly smaller, so there is no issue with it passing thru the oblong lower hole, but you guessed it, the new one? Not so much. I am less than amused. For anyone who isn't aware, the steel used in these areas is pretty substantial, and a file wouldn't even be an option. I burnt thru one 3" cutoff wheel last night before retiring to a tasty adult beverage and licking my wounds. I think perhaps I shall indulge in another adult beverage before continuing this romp today. *Sigh*
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Old 05-11-2014, 02:13 PM   #302
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I had my brand new HW tank put in, and sealed the roof. Cleaned the awning and checked all the lights. Since I bought my camper at the end of last season I haven't had a chance to use it. So very happy that everything is looking good so far!
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:37 PM   #303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02 WS6 TA View Post
Well, this technically doesn't apply to "today", but last night, and at this point again today I embarked in the super simple process of swapping out my Old Reese electric tongue jack for a new unit I purchased after the reese decided it no longer wanted to lower itself (the motor runs fine, but nothing happens, other than me getting annoyed). But hey, brand new jack, 3 bolts, one wire, what can go wrong, right? HA! Long story short, the hole on the top of the tongue is perfectly round, but the one on the lower support gusset is slightly oval shaped, almost if it had been cut by a torch, although it wasn't. The shaft of the Reese clearly is very slightly smaller, so there is no issue with it passing thru the oblong lower hole, but you guessed it, the new one? Not so much. I am less than amused. For anyone who isn't aware, the steel used in these areas is pretty substantial, and a file wouldn't even be an option. I burnt thru one 3" cutoff wheel last night before retiring to a tasty adult beverage and licking my wounds. I think perhaps I shall indulge in another adult beverage before continuing this romp today. *Sigh*
Mine was the same way round on top and torch cut bottom hole. I used a rotary tool with a carbide bit to round out hole to make post fit.
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:43 AM   #304
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Last week I stripped and repainted the tongue/"A" frame; stripped and resealed and repainted the roof. Yesterday I stripped and repainted the rear bumper and all components of the spare tire rack. Today, it's off and on pouring rain.
My problem; I was so focused on getting the job done I forgot to take BEFORE pictures. Once the weather breaks I'll post a bunch of AFTER pics
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Old 05-13-2014, 06:28 AM   #305
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When I returned from Fl.in March, I noticed my white sinks looked dingy,discolored, and stained in little spots..the water there was terrible..so yesterday I got out my favorite cleaners for such things--first a paper towel soaked with hydrogen peroxide ..let it stay on there for about ten minutes. Then a mixture of vinegar and baking soda sprayed on..Wow!! Even better than I expected! White and shiny again..!
P.S. this mixture works wonders on bathtubs and sinks in your house--in those cases,I heat the vinegar first in the micro and then use a spray bottle,as per Pinterest suggestion! The chrome fixtures really look new then. Janalee
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:27 PM   #306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim44646 View Post
Mine was the same way round on top and torch cut bottom hole. I used a rotary tool with a carbide bit to round out hole to make post fit.

It's really a minor issue, but a PITA nonetheless. The Sunline, Hot Tub, lawn and everything else are trying my patience at once. But thanks tor confirming the entire RV universe isn't picking on just me. LOL
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:38 AM   #307
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Update- Milwaukee "Torch" Sawzall blades? Problem solved. Those are some bad boys.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:36 PM   #308
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Hey there im new tot he forum I just got myself a new to me sunline camper for $150 cleaned it all up no leaks and ac works! but im having problems identifying it i believe it is a t1650 but I cannot find any others with a similar window locations,its in good shape just wish i knew what it is it has rear bunks and a stove top no oven if that helps???
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:13 PM   #309
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Hello: Welcome to the forum. I'm kind of new here myself but as far as identifying the trailer's model number ...there should be a tag either inside a cupboard door or most likely a decal of sorts on the body. Mine is on the left side (driver's side) near the front. My decal is kind of worn so I can't really read the model number.

However, With some manufacturers, measuring from the tip of the tongue to the rear bumper gives you the actual size of the trailer. I am with the belief that Sunline only measures the cabin body hence your model number. My trailer is 15 ft from stem to stern but body is 13ft. hence it's referred to as a T1350.
IMO measure the cabin body and there's your trailer size. If anyone else feels I goofed please feel free to correct me

Hope that helps
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:19 PM   #310
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Got 'er ready for a weekend in the 4 Corners!
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Old 05-30-2014, 02:35 PM   #311
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Jerry,

I'd like to see more pictures of your unit. Something seems off. My 1983 T-1550 is 15'-11" total length with a coach of 13'-0" +/- (tongue end of coach isn't square/plumb.) You got me doubting myself, I'll have to remeasure the coach!

1985 Sunline's (total lengths)

T-1250 12'-10" Stove right of entry door tongue end.
T-1350 13'-10" Rear entry.
T-1450 14'-11" Double sink and toilet rear away from tongue. Table on opposite side of entry door.
T-1451 14'-11" Double sink and toilet rear away from tongue.Table between seats on tongue end.
T-1550 15'-11" Table between seats on tongue end and toilet straight across from entry door.
T-1650 16'-10" Table between seats on tongue end. Lounge on left and on same wall as entry door. Double sink straight across from entry door. Rear toilets.
T-1650 16'-10" Table between seats on tongue end. Bunks on left and on same wall as entry door. Double sink straight across from entry door. Rear toilets.

This data is from the 1985 Sunline brochure available by clicking on the file tab and selecting the brochure tab. click download and you have a PDF file of brochure, compliments of Sunline Fan. Very useful info...esp. as there is little changes from year to year on any given model.

Hope it helps.

nickgillen,

Welcome to SOC. Congrats on your "New to You" Sunline.
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Old 05-30-2014, 03:52 PM   #312
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Now you have ME wondering.

I just finished waxing and some other detailing. I will get some more pictures in due time probably at a campsite (coming in a week or so) I can do a nice photo-op.

Mine measures 15ft from tongue to rear bumper, tip-to-tip.
My door is right at the right rear, right being passenger side.
As soon as you walk in is the sink on left and then the stove. mine also has the oven.

Right opposite the walk-in door is the bathroom, shower, sink and potty. Next to the bathroom is our fridge. Below the fridge is the furnace.

Off the front wall of the trailer is the table/bed. Above that is a bunk suitable for tiny kids or blanket storage. Water heater is under the bed on the driver's side. Water pump and fresh water tank is under the bed on the passenger side. Outside storage area ACCESS door is in that area.
AC and secondary heater is above the table.
Pics to follow
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Old 05-30-2014, 08:21 PM   #313
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In addition to taking the mirror off the bathroom door - see http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...tml#post122217 - we also took off the cover to the stove and replaced it with a Camco Cutting Board. The original metal stovetop cover was cantankerous when trying to cover and uncover the stove. So we're giving this a try; there are pixs below. Matthew also put a back-up camera on the F-150.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg NewStoveCover1.jpg (62.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg NewStoveCover2.jpg (50.3 KB, 6 views)
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Old 05-31-2014, 05:23 AM   #314
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I want to put a cover (like your replacement) on our stove also.....just need to make sure the measurements are compatable and since our toyhauler is at the dealer yet again for warranty work (it will be two years old come September) and we have a one year warranty!!!! I'll have to wait for it to come home!
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:04 AM   #315
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Pulled, cleaned, inspected, and packed the wheel bearings. I do it the old-fashioned way - all by hand. (Preparing for a 5-6 hour away camping trip next month.)
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:41 AM   #316
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That reminds me

A week, or so, ago I had to do a minor fix on the brakes and also added some wheel bearing grease.

Some thing that should be noted is the use of those
"Bearing Buddies". I have a pair on our box/ utility trailer but decided NOT to installed them on my T1350. Here's why....

Our travel trailers normally all have electric brakes. Grease and brakes don't mix.
When we add bearing grease we're not 100% sure exactly how much we're injecting and there's no way to tell. If we did over inject we could see bearing grease oozing out of the seal on the inside (not all seals are perfect); after that the centrifugal forces would encourage grease to flow outwards and splatter onto the brake shoes. I might add that when we do inject, we're really only filling the outside bearing and hoping that the inside bearing gets lubed too. Hard to tell right? That internal hub is a good size cavity that could take a lot of grease.

dtstanton, you're correct. the old fashioned way is still by far the best method. Not only that, when you do it the old fashioned way you are in a position to inspect each bearing and bearing race for imperfection. and re torque each Castle Nut so that YOU the driver knows how your trailer is.
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Old 07-18-2014, 04:56 AM   #317
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the ONLY time i ever had a problem with a trailer bearing, it had a bearing buddy on it. i check the temp. of my hubs and wheels everytime i stop. one of those lazer temperature guns sure does come in handy.
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:08 AM   #318
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Another little FYI

A few weeks back we went camping with the kids and grandkids. No. only 2 people in the T1350 the others brought their tents.

Mid way through the trip we did a pit stop and I usually feel the hubs per stop. The trailer's passenger side hub was sorta hot and the driver's side was cold (if you will). Looks like the passenger side was over compensating for the driver's side. That would lead to a premature wear on the one side. What's worse if I had to jam the brakes on in an emergency situation...things could have been funky.

Hmm gotta check that we when we get back.. Last week I removed the wheels and found that the driver's side shoes were out of adjustment as the wheel was too free wheeling while raised off the ground. They should be barely touching, so that, when the brakes are engaged there's not a lot of free travel for the shoes.
What bothered me the most was where the tension spring at the bottom was that holds the shoes taught. I found the tension spring was on the wrong side of the "Star" wheel and this prevented the electric magnet from engaging when activated. The last person to touch my brakes was my local garage by mechanics with whom I trusted. Mistakes do happen, but if I was on a real long trip and if I was not mechanically inclined and had no clue then I would have been really up the creek.

Thank goodness for my mechanical background and took the time too watch the workings.
The garage I go to has a bunch of trained pros but as you know even the best of the best can make mistakes. WE all do. The best advice here is to be advised that WE ALL mistakes and to be aware of every situation when it comes to safety. When you're on a long haul always check those hubs for each gas or pee stop . After I made that simple adjustment everything was 100%. The proof was in the pudding during our last trip this past week as we ended up traversing some fairly steep hilly country side. The brakes were awesome and even.
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Old 07-18-2014, 12:03 PM   #319
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Quote:
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the old fashioned way is still by far the best method. Not only that, when you do it the old fashioned way you are in a position to inspect each bearing and bearing race for imperfection. and re torque each Castle Nut so that YOU the driver knows how your trailer is.
I like being able to "feel" the condition of the bearings throughout the cleaning and repacking process and seeing each roller, knowing if there is any grit/contaminants in there and feeling the resistance of the grease as it's worked into the bearing. I've never believed in filling the cavity with grease, and I see that as a real possibility with the Bearing Buddy - not to mention the possibility of blowing past the seal.

I, too, feel the temperature at every stop. I don't want other drivers waving at me for a hot/smoking/burning wheel.
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Old 08-10-2014, 12:13 PM   #320
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I was scraping, wire brushing and painting the underbelly steel frame on mine. Came to the conclusion that's not a job for an old fat man. But what do I know?
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