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Old 07-23-2017, 03:14 PM   #441
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Rearranged the propane tanks and battery on the tongue. Tow vehicle has barn doors and it had to be dead straight to open them where they were. Also didn't like them sitting up high on top of frame. Like the smaller tanks for less weight and ease of swapping just about anywhere when empty. Still need to clean up and paint tongue.

Last week I flipped the rock guard to hide the faded and pealing sticker and stripes
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Old 07-23-2017, 07:44 PM   #442
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Quote:
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Tow vehicle has barn doors and it had to be dead straight to open them where they were. Also didn't like them sitting up high on top of frame.
Your tank rearrangement came out well.

Swinging barn doors.... Have not heard that one in a while. H'mm, this sounds like a van or a Suburban/Tahoe? I had them on an 97 Tahoe and a 2002 Tahoe. They worked great. Although the lift gate was better for rainy days...
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:42 AM   #443
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Quote:
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Your tank rearrangement came out well.

Swinging barn doors.... Have not heard that one in a while. H'mm, this sounds like a van or a Suburban/Tahoe? I had them on an 97 Tahoe and a 2002 Tahoe. They worked great. Although the lift gate was better for rainy days...
Or an Excursion!

Right barn door isn't a big deal, it can be opened even though getting around the door between the trailer is challenging. The left door is difficult to open period, because it's a wider door. Depending on the tongue jack, it may not clear.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-24-2017, 02:25 PM   #444
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Yes, Excursion. Did the same with my previous camper and that was first hauled around with a van. Along with the gained clearance I think it's cleaner looking with everything tucked inside tongue. Due to the forward slant of the front wall I couldn't put them flat against it with enough room for removing and space for battery up front. But managed to squeeze it all in...

Forgot, also installed a fantastic fan in the bathroom. My family can thank (or blame) my son for that
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:52 AM   #445
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Repacked the bearings on the '97, which were long overdue. It looks like someone packed the bearings themselves with grease, but didn't really pack any extra grease in the hub, so they weren't very wet. Also found a failed inner bearing, so I'm glad I caught this when I did.

Painted the hubs with high temp engine paint, and detailed the lettering. I can see just a little bit of it through the wheel up close. Plus, the date was added as a reminder of when they were last serviced.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:04 AM   #446
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Looking really "Nice" there Jon.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:09 AM   #447
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Quote:
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Looking really "Nice" there Jon.
Thanks John!

Notice how I put the jack stands this time...I know it wasn't as stable, but it was just overnight and I wasn't going inside at all. I thought it might distribute the weight more on the frame rail and not bend the lip or put stress on it. I know this frame is a totally different beast, but I didn't want to take a chance.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-27-2017, 08:54 AM   #448
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I want to do both!

I did not know what to paint the hubs with but now I do

What do you use to paint with? Brush or is it spray?

Also great idea to add service date!

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Repacked the bearings on the '97, which were long overdue. It looks like someone packed the bearings themselves with grease, but didn't really pack any extra grease in the hub, so they weren't very wet. Also found a failed inner bearing, so I'm glad I caught this when I did.

Painted the hubs with high temp engine paint, and detailed the lettering. I can see just a little bit of it through the wheel up close. Plus, the date was added as a reminder of when they were last serviced.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:11 AM   #449
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I want to do both!

I did not know what to paint the hubs with but now I do

What do you use to paint with? Brush or is it spray?

Also great idea to add service date!
Spray, in gloss black. Just a light coat:

https://duplicolor.com/product/engin...l-with-ceramic

Just make sure to mask off the center hole where the bearing goes, as well as all the wheel studs. You don't want paint on any of those.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:19 AM   #450
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Thanks!

What about the white part? Same spray paint but in white? Mine are peeling in some places.


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Spray, in gloss black. Just a light coat:

https://duplicolor.com/product/engin...l-with-ceramic

Just make sure to mask off the center hole where the bearing goes, as well as all the wheel studs. You don't want paint on any of those.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:23 AM   #451
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Thanks!

What about the white part? Same spray paint but in white? Mine are peeling in some places.
The wheel, or the lettering?

The lettering I just painted by hand with a silver paint marker, available from a hardware store.

I haven't found a good touch up for the wheels. Krylon Fusion in gloss white is close, but looks a little more red compared to the original powder coat.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-27-2017, 03:16 PM   #452
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Your wheels look good, you never re painted them?
Mine have a little rust where the face meets the round outer.

Looks like you have a box or C frame, Is there model or year splits on that and I beam?
I just assumed they were all I beam...
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Old 07-27-2017, 06:43 PM   #453
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Your wheels look good, you never re painted them?
Mine have a little rust where the face meets the round outer.

Looks like you have a box or C frame, Is there model or year splits on that and I beam?
I just assumed they were all I beam...
No, I did a little bit of touch up, but that's it. Looks fairly close in color in the shade, but I can see the difference in the sun. All in all though, they weren't bad at all.

The trailer doesn't have very many miles on it (I would say under 5k), and it was stored under a shelter in the winter, so snow probably never sat on them long term. The places where I did have the most rust were like you said, where the face meets the outer part, as well as on the back side in that spot, and on the edges of the spoke cutouts.

I believe JohnB has researched this more of what frames were used when and where, so I'll let him speak on that. The slide room trailers did use a different frame structure than the smaller, non-slide trailers, mostly due to the slide room mechanism going through the frame rail.
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:36 PM   #454
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Re-created the 1970's bolt-on logo:
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:49 PM   #455
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the crank-top hatch open is a must to get the humidity out of a little 1250 micro, but when it rains, the rain gets inside. a cover made out of a rubbermaid container with flaps cut out of it, (and then you hit the uncut top edge with a hair dryer to soften the plastic until you can bend it,) allows the air flow and keeps the rain out.
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:54 PM   #456
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One of my tail lights fell off last trip and at $6 each at Lowe's the replacements were too cheap to pass up. However, the mounting of them is not meant to be on the thin aluminum back.

So instead I 3-d printed a box that I could mount the top into the trailer, and the bottom I could screw into the lid. the wires run into the box lid, and then the new light fixture mounts onto the bottom of the box. Now its very easy to access the light fixture and its secure. the two boxes are also good for hidden storage of extra keys, extra bulbs, etc.

eventually I'll even get around to painting the boxes the right color for the trailer!
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Old 07-30-2017, 03:33 PM   #457
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which brings me to filling old drill holes. Gorilla glue as it dries expands, hardens to a rock and is totally waterproof. put a dot of gorilla glue into the hole, its ok if it runs out. take a little bit of tissue, wet it to make a spitball, and then wipe up the spilled gorilla glue with the spitball and stuff it into the hole. wipe away the excess glue. When it dries, the spit ball will expand to lock into the hole, making a waterproof seal. touch up paint and good as new.
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Old 07-30-2017, 03:39 PM   #458
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how about 12v electical outlets? I found some nifty 1/2 scale keyed (one blade bigger than the other) electrical plugs and sockets. I took some wood boxes I got at the craft store and mounted them with two plugs each, and a cigarette lighter outlet for good measure to make 12v outlets that run off the battery or the 12 inverter.

the 12v electric fans from an old computer put a perfect breeze onto your face and use almost no electricity.

To hold the mini pixar lamp (from the $1 store, it uses batteries included) and the fan in place, little balls of Blu-tack are perfect.
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Old 07-30-2017, 03:44 PM   #459
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if 12v is too much power for you how about 5v lighting? These light bars are made to work with a USB plug. They are about $4 on ebay and then you get the 12v to USB phone charger from the $1 store and you can plug two of these light strips into it. the lamps have neoprene magnets on each end come with a metal disk with double back tape, tape the disks to the underside of the cabinet and the lamp sticks to the metal but can pop off and used as a flashlight if you want.
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Old 08-02-2017, 08:47 AM   #460
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Started pulling the a/c unit apart last night to replace the fan motor. Looks like the hardest part is going to be moving the evaporator coil a little to get the blower wheel off the shaft.
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