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Old 09-18-2015, 08:09 AM   #361
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I have given thought to keying both locks the same, but for now I'm doing what you did, mark the damn key! lol
The funny thing is that I got the key stuck BEFORE driving out of the previous owners' driveway! Ended up driving the 4 hour trip home with the key in the lock! Making it even worse was that I only had one key for the other door and it was stuck in the wrong lock!! So there I was with a new camper and both doors were locked and I couldn't even show it off to the neighbors. I actually laughed pretty hard at myself. I ended up spraying the lock down pretty good and two days later I said the heck with it and applied a bit more muscle and pulled it out. Both lock and key are fine thankfully!
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:27 AM   #362
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Quote:
I ended up spraying the lock down pretty good and two days later I said the heck with it and applied a bit more muscle and pulled it out. Both lock and key are fine thankfully!
Yeap....lots of prayers and a big pair of channel locks!!!

Did I mention lots of prayers??
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Old 09-18-2015, 10:59 AM   #363
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"Replace kitchen faucet - During fill and testing of the water system, the cold water valve blew off. Those plastic threads were stripped and couldn't take any pressure. Going with a Delta standard faucet."

Be sure to put a regulator onto your trailer city hook-up if you are hooking up to the city water line. Trailers aren't designed to take "city" water pressure. I believe they are rated to someplace around 30 p.s.i. whereas the utility company water pressure could be over 100 p.s.i.
The pump in your trailer is around 30 p.s.i. I believe, thus if you are having issues with your faucet when using the trailer pump then please disregard what I just said above.

You did say "...during fill and testing water system...." implying the on board pump.
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:07 AM   #364
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Thanks for the tip on the regulator!
Yes, this was just a test of the freshwater tank and pump.
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:19 AM   #365
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New kitchen faucet installed yesterday. Decided to go with a d Delta rather than other cheap plastic one. Tested onboard water sytem operation along with the hot water tank.
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Old 09-24-2015, 05:23 AM   #366
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I've taken a look at some of the water regulator valves that are out there, anyone have a preference as to which one?
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:22 AM   #367
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So we bought the Sunline, cleaned, prepped, made a bunch of minor repairs, sanitized, watched YouTube and read articles on everything camping and towing, stocked the cupboards, made the bed, filled the LP tanks, replaced the tires, repacked the bearings, had her inspected, joined the Sunline Owners Club, and walked the walk and talked the talk. Maiden voyage delayed by a freaking hurricane! Mother Nature at her finest! lol
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:34 PM   #368
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The good thing about camping on wheels is that you can go where the hurricane ain't.
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:41 PM   #369
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That's so true! But in this case, we had to consider our window that we need to return and that we wanted to travel from Virginia Beach to State College. My fear was that our trip home would be full of rain and wind. But it's a good feeling that we can bugout if need be!
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Old 10-08-2015, 09:01 AM   #370
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Final update

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryJ View Post
But it is related, sorta.

A few weeks ago we went camping with kids and grandkids. Later at night we all sat around the fire. I'm playing with my hunting knife in order to cut kindling and tinder from a piece of fire wood that the camp sells in bags.

Later, after a brown pop, we're sitting around the fire just talking about this and that and I came up with a brain storm.
I thought what if:
I took and old lawnmower blade, cut it in half and start to work it into a hunting knife. Everyone thought it was weird. Why not just buy one? Nah, I wanted to make one for the fun of it and you know..."because I can".

I'm only half way through right now. My local garage had to use a 20 ton press to flatten the curves and the rest is my work. The 20 ton press could only do so much so it's not perfectly flat YET
. A little more finesse here and there as I go. I dread the thought of a leather sheath because I have never worked with leather. Come to think of it I have never made a knife before.
Yet to do: is shaping a handle using 1x2 pine strapping. I tried to drill two holes in the metal to make two bolts for the 'handle halves'. Can't drill that stuff (that lawnmower blade steel). So I decided to glue the two halves of wood with outdoor wood-glue and clamp over night and then start carving a handle into shape. Then do a proper sharpening and some detailing on the wood. In these pictures it's not pretty but hopefully it will turn out the way I want. If not, at least I tried. The two curved portions actually have flatted edges on the top side so I can hit the knife with my hatchet in a hammering fashion for going through the wood.

I used my angle grinder extensively and one of those graduated sanding pads on the grinder.


I'll post the finished product when I'm done. I wanted this to be a winter project. Is it winter yet?

Well, so much for a winter project. I guess I was eager to finish

That knife I started from half of a damaged lawn more blade has morphed into something not too shabby.

I found the handle was harder to make, mainly because I'm not a wood worker. Primarily used a jig saw for shaping and sanding for a 'better finish. It was two pieces of left over scrap 1x2 strapping.
Choosing some stain I had in my shop and then several coats of clear coat and I decided I wanted to "wrap" the handle with a wire of sorts. The ended up looking yucky.
So someone suggested using a cord or rope. I had some perfect size camping cord in the Sunline utility box and used it. Wrapping it tightly and applying some wood glue to secure the end of the cord and clamped that in my vise for over night.
Total cost of this project $0.00 zero. Everything I used I had on hand, just remnants of this and that. It's not the greatest looking knife but it sure was fun to make.
Now I have to find a hobbyist that knows to do work with leather to make a sheath ( I do know my limits). I have an "OK" edge on the blade but need to go real sharp. I have some proper honing and sharping stones. Now THAT might take the winter

Now I have to find another winter project.
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Old 10-10-2015, 07:14 PM   #371
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Sunline Rehab

Pictures I promised. Anyone know of a good caulk remover?

Nan & Jer
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:18 PM   #372
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Wow that's going to take more patience then I have. (Above pic)

We covered our new to us sunny today.. why so late in the year? Because I checked the roof and I feel I need to reseal it. So I found a 500dollar cover on Craigslist for 30 bucks! Yes score for me and the sunny!! Now it's a little bigger in length but it's well covered aND I had to prove to my wife it wasn't going to be that hard to cover it.
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Old 03-21-2016, 06:32 AM   #373
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Wow that's going to take more patience then I have. (Above pic)

We covered our new to us sunny today.. why so late in the year? Because I checked the roof and I feel I need to reseal it. So I found a 500dollar cover on Craigslist for 30 bucks! Yes score for me and the sunny!! Now it's a little bigger in length but it's well covered aND I had to prove to my wife it wasn't going to be that hard to cover it.
Wow that's cheap! Mine cost me about 40 grand yeah OK the truck the wife's car,tractor, farm machinery, camper and other odds and ends are under it too good thing because it's snowing again. Crazy weather snow to day 60 Friday we are working on our 4th mud season so far this winter.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:56 AM   #374
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Obviously I'm not sure how everyone's roof is constructed but my T1350 has simple overlapping joints between each panel. Being a tiny TT I only have two overlapping joints, one front and one rear.

When I first bought the trailer the roof was one of the first things I checked even though there were no leaks. I cleaned between the groves/joints and removed what ever residual junk. Then I sprayed a sealer product put out by Rustoleum (can't remember the name) let it cure, then spray painted the entire roof my the appropriate matching color paint.
I masked both sides of the joints and sprayed a couple/three coats, then removed the masking tape and masked off the very end of the roof and painted.
I check around the gutter where leaks might hide and silicone (or whatever) was recommended, then check the roof once every year.

I can't speak for membrane roofs as I know so little about them and would have to learn. I only speak about the roof I know.

mainah: you say it's snowing LOL, not here, but it is cold about 35 to 40F. Two weeks ago it was so warm and we were spoiled. Just a matter of time now. Better warm up soon because we're going camping April 13th-ish to see the moose in Algonquin. They come out in the early spring to drink the water in the ditches because of the road salt during the winter. Last year we found 12 moose. Kind of goofy looking, clumsy, yet beautiful animals. We keep our distance and enjoy. Algonquin is open all year as HWY 60 is a main highway that goes through Algonquin. There is one small ground ground open during the winter and some braves souls that don't mind the cold (not for me). Besides I've never towed a trailer in the snow even with a 4x4.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:20 PM   #375
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Diane - it is digital ready.....and I mean I get NOTHING!!!!! But given where we live and remembering why we pay for cable - that may be part of the issue.....we are going camping MD w/e and my friends get reception there all the time...I'll have to check it out there. But the trip to CW on Sunday should be or should I re-phrase and say will be an expensive trip!
There is no such a thing as a digital antenna it is just an antenna designed to work on the new UHF frequencies it does not care what it receives. Digital is all or nothing you either pick it up or you don't it's not like the older stuff where you just had a poor picture. Here is the test if you get nothing. Remove the connector at the antenna turn on your switch inside using a volt meter check between the tiny inside wire and the metal part of the connector (do your past not to touch the two together) it should read 12 volts. If it does then the amp inside of the antenna is bad if there is no voltage some thing is up with the unit inside generally it's the antenna. The new flat one are marginally better if you end up needing one they are easier to find stations with because they receive from both sides.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:27 PM   #376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryJ View Post
Obviously I'm not sure how everyone's roof is constructed but my T1350 has simple overlapping joints between each panel. Being a tiny TT I only have two overlapping joints, one front and one rear.

When I first bought the trailer the roof was one of the first things I checked even though there were no leaks. I cleaned between the groves/joints and removed what ever residual junk. Then I sprayed a sealer product put out by Rustoleum (can't remember the name) let it cure, then spray painted the entire roof my the appropriate matching color paint.
I masked both sides of the joints and sprayed a couple/three coats, then removed the masking tape and masked off the very end of the roof and painted.
I check around the gutter where leaks might hide and silicone (or whatever) was recommended, then check the roof once every year.

I can't speak for membrane roofs as I know so little about them and would have to learn. I only speak about the roof I know.

mainah: you say it's snowing LOL, not here, but it is cold about 35 to 40F. Two weeks ago it was so warm and we were spoiled. Just a matter of time now. Better warm up soon because we're going camping April 13th-ish to see the moose in Algonquin. They come out in the early spring to drink the water in the ditches because of the road salt during the winter. Last year we found 12 moose. Kind of goofy looking, clumsy, yet beautiful animals. We keep our distance and enjoy. Algonquin is open all year as HWY 60 is a main highway that goes through Algonquin. There is one small ground ground open during the winter and some braves souls that don't mind the cold (not for me). Besides I've never towed a trailer in the snow even with a 4x4.
Funny you should say that my wife's sister is visiting and she said she had never seen a moose then on que one showed up in the field! I bought my Sunny in late fall drove up coast picked it up and about half way into my 2 hour drive it started to snow and by the time we made it home it was about 4" deep on the roads trial by fire!
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:50 PM   #377
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There is no such a thing as a digital antenna it is just an antenna designed to work on the new UHF frequencies it does not care what it receives. Digital is all or nothing you either pick it up or you don't it's not like the older stuff where you just had a poor picture. Here is the test if you get nothing. Remove the connector at the antenna turn on your switch inside using a volt meter check between the tiny inside wire and the metal part of the connector (do your past not to touch the two together) it should read 12 volts. If it does then the amp inside of the antenna is bad if there is no voltage some thing is up with the unit inside generally it's the antenna. The new flat one are marginally better if you end up needing one they are easier to find stations with because they receive from both sides.
I totally agree with mainah
I retired from a cable company and worked as an RF specialist. That was my world. Also, one of my hobbies is that of ham radio where many of us designed and built our own antennas for talking locally or around the world.
Post retirement I was obliged to pay what the customer paid, whereas my cable bill was sorta free when I worked for them. I now have a muchly reduced cable bill but also added a few UHF antennas

Digital is the compression of more data/information on a analogue signal. today's TVs are designed to see and deal with that compression. Analogue cannot be compressed and be efficient. Anyone can still use their old TV antenna. but only the UHF portion of an old antenna
Yes there is a BUT !!!
what the average person needs to understand is:

Today's digital signals operate on the UHF frequencies not the old VHF frequencies. In the old days remember the snowy pictures? that's analogue where you can receive and see those gray areas. the good the bad and the ugly[couldn't resist]

Today it's digital. It's either a "1" or a "0", on or off. Digital for a full, strong, signal works better on UHF than VHF. Hence you'll end up with a strong but shorter range/distance of signal. UHF is also fussy but it's either pure or not. The old VHF could fade in and fade out but could travel farther. However, those distant signals can look like yuck (if you catch my meaning).

A few things YOU need to understand for your digital reception.
1) Antenna height is your first concern. Not everyone has options for a 40ft tower but height is prime. If you can't achieve height then you can't expect that "greater signal".

2)Type of antenna. Those table top antennas are okay if you live inside or very near a major city. For more distant stations you need an exterior antenna, either roof top or on a tower (as best you can do) Read the specs of the antenna, check the distance to the station's transmitter, do your homework and see what's best for you

3) Distance from your antenna to the transmitting station. Most TV stations can provide the polar pattern and signal strength of its transmitter. Often found on their website, failing that you can email them and they will send a link to you that shows their polar pattern and signal strength. TV and radio signals are public airwaves/domain and by law they are available to you (Canada and USA).

4) Consider trees and buildings and mountain in the line-of-site between your TV antenna and the transmitter. I have a massive 75ft poplar tree in line-of-site between my tower and those stations 50 miles away. Short of chopping my nice tree down I accept the bad news.

5) A chain is as good as its weakest link???
Your antenna system is only as good any connection from between your TV set and the antenna connections and everything in between.
6) Antenna pre-amps also work great. Buy brand name not a cheapy. NOTE A pre-amp does not pull in weak signals. Their sole purpose: Your antenna either captures a good signal or not. The pre-map won't change any of that. The pre-amp's sole purpose is to increase the signal, after the antenna, so to compensate for any loss that goes FROM your antenna, down the cable and TO your TV set. It takes the existing signal and bumps it up so to go further down the pipe and compensate for that signal loss. Read that a couple of times so you'll understand.

I might add there are conditions where a pre-amp can overdrive the tuner on your TV and make your signal too strong and wipe things out.

I have two 4 bay bow ties hooked up in tandem "bow-tie" antenna aimed east. Two together equals an 8 bay ( minus slight signal loss for a combiner) for a few stations about 50 miles from me. Mostly great signals, sometimes not so good. I have one 4 bay aimed north but the stations are so close it's a no-brainer and I have a Yagi aimed westerly for one station that is only a few short miles from me. But, because I live below a large hill, an escarpment, that one signal is impeded and becomes weaker than normal. Nothing I can do but understand I can't have it all, mainly because of where I live. Yes, I tried my pre-amp on that very antenna but if the signal sucks to begin with, then no amplification will help.

This is the homework the average home owner needs to do for him or herself. Some of those antenna sales people or ads online can almost promise the world, but they are advertisers and most of the promises made are based under IDEAL conditions. Kind of sounds like an election campaign, huh?
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:32 AM   #378
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For my house I did not want a antenna I had to keep moving to watch TV. That is why I looked for a "omnidirectional" antenna. Mine is on a pole, about twenty feet above the ground, and no rotator installed.


Since we live so far from stations I find I'm "on the edge" of good signal reception without going to more expensive and directional antennas. I have learned that there are differences between brands and models of TVs. Where one TV gets more and better stations another will drop stations. There is a technical term for this reception signal strength but it escapes me right now. Search for the best TV.


Next, I learned the signal amplifier is important. Make sure the coax is in good condition and moisture doesn't enter the cable. I have my connections that are outside all more than hand tightened by doing a gentle snug with wrenches. Then I have wrapped the connector with electrical tape.


What I learned about using the omnidirectional antenna on our TT is that when setting up the camper and reloading channels on the TV for each location I get better signals on all available channels without rotating the antenna or guessing where a station might be. This is handy in unknown areas.


Here is a link to the style antenna I use: https://www.opensky.com/uniqueimport...pilot|LavoHome


To permanently mount on the RV roof I use the old antenna mount so the antenna lays flat but is vertical when raised. It can be mounted to the roof, without being raised as I have seen on some motorhomes, but I like the extra height on my low 2363 so I can clear my neighbors TTs better.


In the end I think the inability to receive TV signals that others get is as much the TV as it is the antenna. Especially when at fringe reception conditions.


Hope this is some food for thought.
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Old 03-22-2016, 06:44 AM   #379
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Here is what I was talking about for the camper Robot Check
I have one it's a kit and an easy install one arm of the old crank up bat wing needs to be removed it's a great deal lighter and sits flat on the roof. Typical of any antenna made it has great claims. It is marginally better than the bat wing as far as reception but it will not produce miracles its greatest benefit it's far easier to find stations. It is a sealed unit and that probably will help in the long run one of the bat wings problems was corrosion on the amp board inside of the housing and that’s generally what went wrong with them. At the house I use a 4 bay bow tie antenna up about 40' on my tower all of that effort for my weekly TV of some thing like 5 hours!
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:15 AM   #380
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Due to the fact that I have a series of ham radio antennas I'm not in a position to have a rotator. But, for the average person I highly recommend a rotator so to maximize directional pinpointing. I was thinking so much about my own system that I neglected to mention a rotator. So my bad.

As for taping. I found the best tape to use is called Butyal tape. This is an industry standard issue for all cable companies that do repairs for burial /underground cable splicing. It's stretchable and extremely sticky both sides and superb moisture sealing. Regular electrical tape breaks down during severe cold (loses its elasticity)

When you buy coax I'd almost avoid big box store coax. They mostly buy offshore products which I have proven to be substandard. It's not their specialty and many of these products you should buy from people that know about the products. Again do your research. (with any product)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATSC_standards

I have a cheapy RCA Walmart TV in my shop which doubles as our TV for the trailer. I also have a decent, but not high-end, TV in the 'homeoffice'. then we have the better LG TV in the family room. All these TVs are pretty much standard when it comes to reception I have swapped a couple of these TVs between cable and my 2 antenna systems ( I have a second smaller tower for the shop and I'll build antennas out of scrap, just because I can. It's fun and a great learning experience. Because my shop antenna tower is only 20ft high I have reduced reception but that tower competes with that tree I told you about earlier.

I have not noticed any substantial difference between any of the TVs for reception characteristics. Obviously, all the TV menus are different. If you do an open scan to see what's out there your TV turner scanner mode should find it. I have always suggested to people to experiment and play with your TV, nothing will break or blow up. worse comes to worse you can do a reset and start over again (for those that are comfortable doing so).

Yagi versus bow-tie (4 bay or 8 bay)
A Yagi is a more focused beam and like the arrow that it looks like, it's highly directional. The yagi can also provide higher gain but is also channel restrictive, it works harder in one 'concentrated' direction for a specific transmitter and might not pick up those station more off to the left or right. It's design is with purpose.

The 4 or 8 bay covers a wider area geographical area, 180 degrees. EG: I will capture all easterly but very little off the southerly or northerly. This is all dependent on many other factors as well. So, I'm generalizing at this point for simplicity sake. Omni antennas are good for a 360 general reception but not designed for higher gain. Do you want 1,000 horse power or fantastic fuel economy? Again, it depends where YOU live and where the transmitters are. I feel bad writing these long posts but this is based on years of science and technology. More on antennas Channel Master Antenna O.T.A Over the Air Television, Free TV using an Over the Air Channel Master Antenna Get HDTV Antenna's from SaveAndReplay
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Jerry & Debbie
Ford Explorer 4.6 Triton V8, AWD, 4x4
1985 Sunline Saturn T-1350
Ham radio VE3JCJ, VHF, UHF and HF
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