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Old 06-27-2017, 10:05 PM   #421
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Installed an axle flip kit on the '90. I love the added height, now I need to dial in hitch again (for the first time).
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:56 PM   #422
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Hello everyone!!
I need to jack up my trailer. Where do I put the jack to change the tire?
I have a 22ft Sunline with 4 tires
Than you for any advice!!
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Old 06-28-2017, 03:32 PM   #423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okwildcat View Post
Hello everyone!!

I need to jack up my trailer. Where do I put the jack to change the tire?

I have a 22ft Sunline with 4 tires

Than you for any advice!!


Put the jack on the frame near the rear wheel. Make sure your young jack is down and your stabilizer jacks are up. Chalk the tires on the opposite side of the trailer



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:01 PM   #424
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Originally Posted by johnbyrum View Post
put the jack on the frame near the rear wheel. Make sure your young jack is down and your stabilizer jacks are up. Chalk the tires on the opposite side of the trailer



sent from my iphone using tapatalk


thank you so much!!
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:49 PM   #425
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Wednesday

Got the wipers installed. Ran the new tubing for the washer fluid. I bought 4' and had less than 1" left over, so that was a good estimate.
Pulled and cleaned the washer reservoir. Started looking at the wiring for the washer pump. I have a small bundle of wires that look to be routed to that area (3 pairs - Red with 2 Black stripes (both), Blue/Black and Blue/Black), but none of them are connected to anything. I started the engine and put a multi-meter to them. All 3 pairs have a hot wire (14v-15v) and a ground.
Hmm, i'm thinking one of them should only be hot if the washer fluid pump is being activated, so now confusion reigns.
The wires for the pump are Blue with a Red stripe and Black, so I didn't have a pair that matched that combo. I tried hooking it up to the ground and hot wire anyway to see if it even worked, and it doesn't.

I found someone selling a couple of Datsun Truck manuals online and bought them yesterday, just waiting for them to be delivered.
Looks like I'm going to need the wiring diagram for some of the under hood electronics. Granted, the manuals probably won't cover the extra circuitry for the camper, but at least I could identify the regular truck circuits.

Tried repairing the grille with Gorilla Glue. After sitting all night, the joint lasted about 30 seconds once I removed the clamp. Next I'll try to weld it together with my soldering tool.

Found some parts still available for the truck at Summit Racing and APW, so at least some items can still be purchased new.

Once the GF got home, I had to quit working on the RV and spend some quality time with her, so that's all I was able to get done today.
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Old 06-30-2017, 07:57 AM   #426
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Exterior/Interior Lighting

Went ahead with the project, stated pulling the exterior lighting. Removed the tail-lights, they were a mess. One side is beat up a bit, been leaking and is pretty rusty. The other side, while in much better shape mechanically, was wired together completely custom and not very well.
GF went through and pulled all the light bulbs from every socket, inside and out, and cataloged them so we can buy the correct sized LED's. Looks like we have 4 different bulbs to buy(1157, 1194 and a couple of smaller sizes), but nothing unusual.
She also cleaned and lens covers and gaskets.
I spent some time cleaning up the tail-light housings, and then shot them with rust-inhibitor. I'll give them a couple more coats of that tonight and have them ready to reassemble Saturday.
Of course, Saturday we're going to finally hook up the external power and test out the 110V system, hopefully that goes well and we don't burn the RV to the ground from a hidden short.
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Old 07-01-2017, 04:48 PM   #427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islanders View Post
Once the GF got home, I had to quit working on the RV and spend some quality time with her, so that's all I was able to get done today.
A very important and notable step! Some of us aren't lucky enough to have such a good reason to quit (yet)...

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Removed the tail-lights, they were a mess. One side is beat up a bit, been leaking and is pretty rusty. The other side, while in much better shape mechanically, was wired together completely custom and not very well.
I'm pretty sure those are original Datsun taillights that they made fit. They changed to RV taillights shortly after yours was built it seems. I'm wondering if yours were the kind mounted in the bumpers of the Datsun 620 pickups of the time. Are these the same?

FIT DATSUN NISSAN PICKUP TRUCK 620 72-79 NEW REAR BUMPER TAILLIGHT LAMP PAIR SET | eBay
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Old 07-01-2017, 06:28 PM   #428
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Taillights

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I'm wondering if yours were the kind mounted in the bumpers of the Datsun 620 pickups of the time. Are these the same?
In fact those are exactly what we have, thanks a bunch for that link! We're going to try and reuse what we have....but....we do have cracked taillight lenses, so we will need those at some point (and quickly).
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Old 07-01-2017, 07:02 PM   #429
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Saturday

Began the day by jacking up the front end and doing an inspection of the front brakes. Turns out, they have practically new pads, and the rotors look decent. So we're good there! We went ahead and bled the fronts, GF helped and did a good job working the pedal, but didn't get where I wanted to be, so we bled the rears again and got a bit more pedal.
Strangely, we have a really good pedal without the engine running, but once we have the engine running the pedal drops most of the way to the floor before getting much brakes. Makes me wonder....but they are working better and I now know for sure we have good pads/rotors and shoes/drums.

After the brakes, I moved on the the roof, worked a bit more stripping back the original sealant so we can re-apply new and stop the leak. Got the passenger side done back to the skylight and removed the rusty/broken rain gutter from the roof edge. Then I worked on the drivers side roof, started stripping back the sealant on the front seam running across to the skylight, then pulled the broken/rusty rain gutter.
We'll run to the local RV supply place tomorrow for more rain gutter and the roll of sealant that goes under it (and a dumpload of 1/4" head galvanized screws).

GR worked on her project, the rear baskets. She spent that last couple of days with a wire-wheel and steel brush knocking down the rust and loose paint, then shot the cages with rustoleum white primer. We'll get some off-white (trying to match the camper) paint for them tomorrow and hopefully have them done.
Its good to have something looking good/new on the RV, makes a difference and helps the mood when dealing with the "project".
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:32 PM   #430
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Sunday

Reassembled the taillights and cleaning them thoroughly and repairing some rust damage, and some lubrication for the light sockets.
Here's showing the amount of rust damage , prior to reassembly...


...and after getting them assemble and reinstalled...


GF finished cleaning and repainting the rear cages. Here's where we started...


....and now that they've been painted...


I'm thinking I need to pull these side mirrors and hardware to be cleaned up and reinstalled....
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:23 PM   #431
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I didn't realize you had the all red taillights- eBay has those too, as well as the ones with the amber turn signals!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Islanders View Post
Began the day by jacking up the front end and doing an inspection of the front brakes. Turns out, they have practically new pads, and the rotors look decent. So we're good there! We went ahead and bled the fronts, GF helped and did a good job working the pedal, but didn't get where I wanted to be, so we bled the rears again and got a bit more pedal.
Strangely, we have a really good pedal without the engine running, but once we have the engine running the pedal drops most of the way to the floor before getting much brakes. Makes me wonder....but they are working better and I now know for sure we have good pads/rotors and shoes/drums.

After the brakes, I moved on the the roof, worked a bit more stripping back the original sealant so we can re-apply new and stop the leak. Got the passenger side done back to the skylight and removed the rusty/broken rain gutter from the roof edge. Then I worked on the drivers side roof, started stripping back the sealant on the front seam running across to the skylight, then pulled the broken/rusty rain gutter.
We'll run to the local RV supply place tomorrow for more rain gutter and the roll of sealant that goes under it (and a dumpload of 1/4" head galvanized screws).

GR worked on her project, the rear baskets. She spent that last couple of days with a wire-wheel and steel brush knocking down the rust and loose paint, then shot the cages with rustoleum white primer. We'll get some off-white (trying to match the camper) paint for them tomorrow and hopefully have them done.
Its good to have something looking good/new on the RV, makes a difference and helps the mood when dealing with the "project".
Does it have a booster for brakes? The pedal should get hard quickly with engine off and then immediately get softer when you start the engine. If it's that soft though, it could be the booster has a leak or something else vacuum related does.

Rear rack looks great! Did you find a power cord in the side hole? I'm wondering if the rear one was added with the short cord in order to plug in a generator on the rear rack. If that's the case, there's one way you can run the roof a/c while driving!
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Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:33 PM   #432
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Monday

Stopped by the local RV parts place and picked up some raw materials to keep me busy tomorrow. New AL drip rails, caulk, screws, vent covers and leveling blocks for parking on an incline (which we do). I'll work on the drip rails and taillights tomorrow.
Tonight I just messed around with some small stuff, mirror mounts and parked it on the blocks to have it sitting level.

...and since the RV was "in-use" when purchased, it came decorated and stocked up a bit. Rain poncho, extra flashlights, weather radio, leveling jacks...etc., and a small Vivitar telescope. I spent a few minutes taking the telescope apart, cleaning the optics with Invisible Glass, lubed the adjusters, dug out a mount from my camera bag, and took a close-up view of the moon.

...and then watched the fireworks show at 39th street from my front porch, looking past the American flag....it was a good day.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:37 PM   #433
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Quote:
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Does it have a booster for brakes? The pedal should get hard quickly with engine off and then immediately get softer when you start the engine. If it's that soft though, it could be the booster has a leak or something else vacuum related does.
Hi Jon, yes there is a booster, although its not large. I'll check the vacuum line but I'll probably have to bleed the rear brakes again.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:46 PM   #434
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External Power

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Rear rack looks great! Did you find a power cord in the side hole? I'm wondering if the rear one was added with the short cord in order to plug in a generator on the rear rack. If that's the case, there's one way you can run the roof a/c while driving!
Hey Jon, Yes, we have a 30' extension power cord, so we're good there. Where we ran into trouble was trying to connect the 30Amp circuit last weekend. We're having diffculty finding that supply.
So we bought a 30Amp to 110V adapter. The A/C isn't operable right now anyway, so we reasoned to test the 110V circuit in the camper without testing the A/C. In that case, we would use a regular 10AMP circuit, so we bought the adapter.

Do you mean to have a gasoline generator running in the cage out back, supplying the 30Amp circuit in the camper? Yea, I mentioned that approach to the GF, she didn't think it would be safe. I also thought if I could carry more propane, maybe a propane generator would be a better approach?
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Old 07-05-2017, 07:44 AM   #435
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4th of July

Started the day on the taillights. Finally got the mess under the camper straightened out enough to get the taillights working correctly. Took a few wire-splice endeavors, but they all work now.
Next up was the roof edge molding with drip rail. We bought a couple of 8' lengths at the RV supply place, roll caulking, squeeze caulking and 50 screws. It took me a couple of hours, but steady progress was made and by early afternoon I had reinstalled roof edge molding and drip rails to both sides of the RV. Had 5 screws left over so got lucky there.
I checked the outside, but it looks like just over 300 screws to attached everything to the camper.
Spent the rest of the day working through all the exterior running/marker lights. I have all the lights working sans 1 spot, at the roof line on the back, which is far too rusty to repair and will need to be replaced. Otherwise, we're totally lit externally and have working taillights.

GF scrapped away a few inches of roof sealer from around the skylight.

I finished up everything early in the evening, just in time to walk up to Seawall for the July 4th Parade and fireworks.
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Old 07-05-2017, 12:36 PM   #436
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3 new vent lids, and new battery leads! And finished in time to get 18 holes in. If I get off the internet now that is.
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Old 07-10-2017, 04:31 PM   #437
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Quote:
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Hey Jon, Yes, we have a 30' extension power cord, so we're good there. Where we ran into trouble was trying to connect the 30Amp circuit last weekend. We're having diffculty finding that supply.
So we bought a 30Amp to 110V adapter. The A/C isn't operable right now anyway, so we reasoned to test the 110V circuit in the camper without testing the A/C. In that case, we would use a regular 10AMP circuit, so we bought the adapter.

Do you mean to have a gasoline generator running in the cage out back, supplying the 30Amp circuit in the camper? Yea, I mentioned that approach to the GF, she didn't think it would be safe. I also thought if I could carry more propane, maybe a propane generator would be a better approach?
Yeah, I can see how it might not be too safe, as a portable unit. Built in motorhome generators are designed to be run when on the road though, so depending on the type of unit, it shouldn't be a problem. If you went any sort of generator route, make sure you have it cable locked to the back, you wouldn't want it walking away at a gas station or rest stop.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:02 AM   #438
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With the door being so close to the roof line, I felt that I needed to raise the awning a good 15cm so that the corner of the door when opening and closing wouldn't catch the fabric and tear it.
I designed an awning frame to hold triangular awnings using 1/2" and 3/4" conduit pipes, the whole thing cost about $60, and can be deployed in about 2 minutes. I used wing nut hose clamps, left over hardware and wire, bolts, etc, and liberal amounts of gorilla glue. The two triangular awnings can be configured in a host of ways so you get the shade where you want it.

Also of note is a cut up rubbermaid container that fits over the roof hatch. this way I can keep the roof hatch open in the rain, exhaust the air out of the trailer, but still not let the rain in.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:03 AM   #439
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one more.
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Old 07-21-2017, 09:22 AM   #440
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In case you ever find a need to angle it down, they make this part to attach to the top corner of your door so that it won't tear the awning. The little plastic piece clips on the corner of the screen door for the same purpose.

https://www.ebay.com/i/182369584801?chn=ps&dispItem=1
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Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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