Hi Roycer,
Yes, Eternabond for the roof seams and Proflex RV will work well for your metal roof. For those following along, Proflex RV is rated for metal and works well on it; however, if you have an EPDM rubber roof, do not use the Proflex on the roof membrane; it will affect the rubber.
This old caulk, of whatever it is, see if you can get it off before putting the new materials on.
Having that old dried-up caulk under your new material will not allow the new material to bond to the roof; it is in the way. You can try this to remove the old caulk.
1. Get a stiff blade metal scraper, 1" wide, and sand, grind, or file off all the sharp edges on the end of the blade. Those sharp edges will scratch the metal. Feel the end with your fingers; if it is sharp to your fingers, it will be sharp on the roof.
2. Using a simple heat gun, 1,400 - 1,800 watts, 1 speed or 2 will work; gently warm up the old caulk. Keep the heat gun moving across the surface or slowly and steadily; do not stop in one place to not burn the paint. You do not want to heat it into a goo; warm it enough the scraper will push it easier and scrape it up.
3. Again, not knowing what it is, after you scrape as much as you can, then using mineral spirits (MS) on a rag, wipe some MS on the leftover caulk, let it soak a minute or two, then start to rub and see if it cuts it and starts to take it off. If it cuts it, keep going and get the rest of the leftovers off. The MS will not lift the paint.
4. After the MS treatment, dry the surface and use a high flash cleaner to remove any MS oily residue. I use Naphtha or denatured alcohol as it does it works quickly, evaporates off, and not leave a film behind that will affect the new sealing material. Do not leave the MS, even dry on the surface, and put the new caulk or Eternabond, as it will affect their bond to the metal.
In case you did not know, your camper roof is not a direct walk-on roof. You can damage the metal if you step on it between the rafters. Use a tarp or canvas etc. to protect the metal and then place small sheets of 3/8" or thicker plywood down in approx 2' x 4' size to span across the rafters. The size of the plywood sheet needs to be long enough to span the rafters (at approx 16" centers) but yet manageable to get up and down the ladder.
Here are a few tips for smoothing out the Proflex RV; since it is not self-leveling, you want to smooth it out once applied. I use a slightly soapy wet finger to spread it. I use a few drops of Dawn dish soap in a small cup, dip your finger, and start spreading. When you feel it start to pull, rewet your finger. For thicker locations, you may need to tap it and gently push it where you want it with the wet finger, then smooth it. See this post, which was written for Dicor non-leveling caulk on the siding. Proflex reacts the same way.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post137744
A few other Proflex tips, do not apply on a high heat bright summer day or hot metal. The Proflex dries too fast and will glob up instead of smooth out.
Only apply 2ft to the most 3 ft, then smooth it out. If not it will start curing too fast and glob up. Go a shorter distance, smooth it out, then apply more.
If you have never used Eternabond before, there are some tricks. See, this is used on a rubber roof, but your roof seams will apply the same way.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...ics-11610.html
The Eternabond has to be firmly pressed (rolled) to have 100% coverage of the tap to set the adhesive. While it feels like it will stick to everything, and it does, for a long-term bond, it needs to be firmly compressed to set the adhesive.
For both the Proflex and the Eternabond, the roof must be very clean where the material is applied. I can't stress this enough: you do not want dirt under your new sealing material. Proflex or Eternabond will not seal to dirt.
Please don't hesitate to ask any other questions and good luck.
Hope this helps
John
Linear Mode
