Originally Posted by tcmbk
There is one area where the black is starting to show. I have already done the caulking, and there are no water leaks or damage. I have done some searching about what product to use for the coating, but there are so many different products on the market. I was just looking for some recommendations from someone, as this is the first time that I have done a recoating. Also, wondering if it is necessary to do two coatings at the same time since the weather is getting colder.
Good news, you have the caulk already done, and you are sure there are no leaks. If you find an issue with the caulk, roof leak, etc., let's talk further.
And yes, there are so many roof coatings out there, and they all claim to be the best or very good. How does one decide? That is an excellent question. I also have a good friend with a SunnyBrook Titan travel trailer (their high-end brand of the time). He had bad luck with certain EPDM coatings. I will not recommend the brand he used. But, I can offer two types of coatings, and I have feedback on both. Both have pros and cons, so please think about the best fit for your situation.
Four good Sunline friends of mine have used the Dicor 2-part acrylic coatings system. I have personally seen 3 of those friends' roofs. This is the Dicor system. They have not reported anything bad on them, and they have had them 4 to 5 years now.
This system needs a cleaner activator, https://dicorproducts.com/product/ep...oating-system/
And the top coating. https://dicorproducts.com/product/ep...oating-system/
The coating is intended to restore the white shed layer; it is not to deal with caulking joints. However, if you coat over good, sound roof sealant caulking, the coating can help extend the caulk life by reducing some UV sun damage.
We have a few folks on the forum who have used this coating system with posts on it. Dicor made the original rubber roof, so their coating will work on it.
Here is one by Wannabes; they dealt with the caulking issue by Eternabonding all the sealant areas and then coating the main roof. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post150309
Here is another post by Kirckcomer; he did his roof from the sides versus down the center. More on how to apply in a bit. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tem-19687.html
The Dicor Acrylic coating is warranted for product defects for 5 years. The costs are lower than the longer-term options. I wonder if your camper lives outside all the time or is under cover of sorts during the off-season? Two of my Sunline friends with this coating store their camper undercover. The point is that you may get more than 5 years on the coating before a recoat needs to be done. The recoat is needed again when the white shed layer is worn to the point where you see the black layer coming.
One issue with acrylic coatings is ponding water can break down the coating if the ponding happens often in the same place. This can be a concern if you have a sunken area on your roof that will not drain while in off-season storage.
Next is a coating system I researched, tested, and applied to four campers and one house porch roof so far. It is a high solids Silicone coating. There are two brands I use: Crazy Seal, https://crazyseal.com/
. And Henry 885 and 887 formulations of Tropi-cool. Here is the 885 for every seam that used caulk, https://henry.com/retail/repair-seal...r-roof-sealant
and here is the top coat for the open areas. https://henry.com/retail/white-roof-...e-roof-coating
These types of coatings are different than the Dicor Acrylic coatings. Both deal with the seams and joints where caulk is still used as the final seal and the open areas of the roof. There is no more caulking checks or failing caulk issue once the thicker formulations are used over those caulked areas.
Ponding water is no concern as the product is not affected by standing water once cured.
Both have warranties on the product that will outlast the camper, Crazy Seal is 50 years, and Henry is lifetime.
EDIT on Costing, 9/30/23:
The cost of these coatings is higher than the Dicor, and with all the recent price increases on everything, a gallon of Dicor Part 2 is $90/gal on Amazon, and Henry 887 is $120/gal. at Home Depot. So yes, the Henry does cost more, but it gives you a longer life for 33% more cost.
The Henry products can be bought from Home Depot, so search their site for pricing. Crazy Seal, you buy directly from them. The Henry will be slightly cheaper than the Crazy Seal, but both are in the same cost league. You need to cost out the total system as the Dicor needs the activator/cleaner, and the Henry/Crazy seal uses the thicker 885 / Patch products to deal with the caulking seams. The cost will come down to your needs, such as lower initial cost as you will not keep the camper that long, or a ~30% more cost as you will keep the camper longer and do not want to deal with roof caulk anymore.
Three of the campers I used the Henry products on live outside all the time, and the owners have physical constraints (can't get up on the roof) to be unable to check and maintain the caulking four times a year. This system can make sense if you want to keep your camper for a long time. There are other benefits, too: easy-to-clean and highly reflective surface to reduce some of the heat transmitted into the camper. You are buying a much more rugged product that lasts longer; as such, it costs more.
A realization is that once you convert to the high solids silicone coatings, you must stay with them on roof repairs. If you break a roof vent and have to replace it, it can be done, but you need to use high solids silicone to bond the repair back into the coated roof. You cannot use Dicor caulk on top of the silicone coating as it will not bond, but the new silicone coating will bond over the old silicone coating. This is very doable; realize the repair needs.
Here are some pics of those roof coatings.
A 2006 T276SR I restored for a friend over the repaired EPDM budboard roof. This was a Henry coating
A restored 2007 T289SR with a new walk-on roof, new TPO membrane, and coated I did for a friend. This was a Henry coating.
A 2019 Keystone Laredo 5th wheel for a friend. This was a Henry coating on a full walk-on repaired TPO roof. The friend wanted the light gray and not the white.
This is mine, a 2004 T310SR on an EPDM budboard-style roof. I can't find my campers' pics with all the roof items back on.
You mentioned doing a second coat next year. For the Dicor; they want all coats done on the same day. And no rain or dew until the coating fully cures.
On the Henry high solids silicone, these products can be coated at any time and are rain-safe within a short time after application for rain only (you cannot walk on it, though, until fully cured). You can do only the seams with the 885 as a treatment and stop there if you want. Then come back later, days or years, and do one whole roof coat with the 887 at another time, and then the second coat of 887, again the next day or next year. You can even do spot treatments if needed. Ideally, you'll be able to do the two main area coatings soon as if you missed a spot; the second coat covers the miss. And if there is a hole in the membrane, that is the issue. If you know of no pinholes, then waiting is less of a thing.
The high solids silicone coatings will seal to themselves. But, you have to clean the roof if you wait long periods. It will take three days (1-day seams, 1-day 1st coat, 1-day 2nd coat) to do the Henry/Crazy seal system to allow the coatings to harden up before they can be walked on. Those days can be consecutive or separate. The installation process is longer on the Henry or Crazy Seal due to the seams where there was caulking and needed to let each top coat cure before doing a second coat. The Dicro Acrylic coating system has to happen in a long day.
Think this over and see if any of it fits your situation. I can help get into more application details as needed, especially the high-solids silicone option. And how to deal with the budboard roof system, coating it, and getting up there as you coat it.
I hope this helps.