Now, to your roof comments, with the weather upon us and the tarp on the camper, it is hard to tell exactly how good or bad the existing roof is.
I can see and say that someone coated the roof and did not do a good job of it. The wrong coating, wrong primer, wrong application, or wrong prep work, I am not sure, but it now falls into the "suspect" list of if it was done correctly.
These pictures show the coating being let go and coming off. This is not a small spot; it is a large section on the left rear corner.
It is hard to see, and I tried zooming, but I can tell for sure that there appears to be a separation of coating at the front left corner of the second roof vent from the back wall. The rear one is in the bathroom, and the one ahead of it, the 2nd one, is by the bunk area. Zoom in on your original photo; it may be more clear.
This shows the separated area up close along the separation line
It could have torn off in the wind, standing still in high winds, or towing down the road. It's hard to tell, but it is missing.
This one pic, where the coating is gone, shows the condition of the original roof. It has aging cracks in the white layer. UV from the sun aggravates this and can accelerate the condition. The white layer is also worn to the black layer right where it goes into the corner under all that bad caulk. If the roof was cleaned and a UV protectant used regularly (3 to 4 times a year), this could have lasted a lot longer. Dicor warranted the membrane for 12 years if properly maintained; it lasted longer not maintained, so this is not the roof's fault.
We also do not have pics of the front roof seam to the front wall siding due to the weather. The front and rear roof-to-siding seams are the traditional leak zones when proper roof sealant maintenance is lacking. With the thin coating they used, we may be able to see the old caulking in whatever condition is in.
More information is needed to recommend whether the old roof can be saved for long-term repair. If they had not coated it, and after you repaired the water-damaged areas, there is a coating system I have used that could have repaired it for the long term. We will have to revisit this in the spring and see if we can repair the old roof so it lasts.
That said, the odds are high that the old roof can last a short time after you address the leak areas and make them sound again. It is short, being a few years, but it will not last 5 to 10 plus years.
A new roof is an option that, hands down, can be put on to be a lasting roof if done right. It will require a total tear-off, new decking, and a new membrane. It is all very doable, and we can help you through it, but it is a project in itself, for sure need to plan it.
You may have seen these already; these links will drop you into two restorations showing the installation process and what to expect on a new roof.
This is a full walk-on roof decking system.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post130980
This is a lighter-weight roof that sheds water very well but is not a direct walk-on roof. It is better than the original for water shedding, but the same in needing precautions with a tarp and plywood pieces to service the roof.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post154533
If needed, I have more pics of each style on other campers, just not in a complete post to link in. The difference in decking thickness makes the difference between walk-on and non-walk-on roofing. It is a weight-savings thing; you give up some cargo capacity to gain the ability to go full walk-on. On your 8,600# GVWR-rated camper, it comes down to a personal choice and some added cost for the thicker decking. You will not lose that much cargo capacity going full walk on. The deck sheets are heavier to get up there, though. A good time to bring the grown-up kids over to help.
Hope this helps,
John
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