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Old 04-29-2019, 07:47 AM   #1
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Roof replacement - plywood switch

After 20 years of faithful service, it's finally time to replace the rubber roof on my 1999 T-2670. I've kept up on the roof caulking, so there's never been any leak that I'm aware of, at least not noticeable on the inside; however, the black of the rubber roof is now showing through, especially in the area where the AC drips run out to the edges. Also, the rear of the AC is sagging a bit.

I spoke to a friend in the business about why my whole roof seems soft, despite no leaking, and he thinks this is a model that had Sunline's cardboard-like backing, instead of plywood. Years of snow weight, etc. stretch it out. He suggested if that backing were still solid, I should just apply a liquid coating since the rubber itself is not compromised. Otherwise, pull everything up, put down 3/8" plywood and new rubber.

I'm leaning towards the plywood/new rubber for a couple of reasons:
  1. The overall "softness" is concerning, especially since I live in an area that can get decent amounts of snow weight on the roof.
  2. The sagging A/C shroud is nearly hitting the rubber, if it drops further, it may rub/tear the roof. It seems like the rear support feet are falling between rafters, so plywood would solve the support issue.
  3. Having a sold plywood roof would make future caulking maintenance, roof cleaning, A/C service significantly easier.
  4. I would like to completely re-do the corner seam seals if I have to disturb them anyway. Some sections appear in worse shape than others as far as shifting, gaps opening, etc.

The biggest CON I can come up with, other than being more work, is the added weight, which being that high, could change the towing stability of the trailer, and obviously make it a somewhat heavier.

I'm looking for any feedback, suggestions, expertise, that any of you may have to offer.

Thanks!
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:50 PM   #2
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I have done the 3/8 plywood on a larger camper. T264SR model. That floor plan and the 8,600# GVWR and has the cargo capacity to allow the added weight. It is a beautiful roof and a direct walk on, it just weighs more.

I have recently just completed a T2363 (5,500# GVWR) and a T286SR (8,600# GVWR) using 3/16" exterior glue, AB faced flooring underlayment.

On the T2363 (a 24' 2" camper) it added 54 pounds more than the original Sunline roof. On the T286SR (a 29' 10" camper) it added 82 pounds more than the original. This solution was a good compromise from a weight verse strength ratio. It is still not a direct walk on roof, but it has a lot of upsides over the orignal roof.

If this interests you, I have lots of info and pics on it if wanted. Just ask.

Hope this helps

John

PS, when you redo the roof, consider doing an Eternabond roof seal taping over all the new sealants on the roof. Just wait 30 days for the Dicor sealants to gas off before the Eternabond. It will take some time and can be done in phases, but you can say goodbye to roof caulking going bad on you. More info on this too if wanted.

NOTE: Weights/camper lengths in red updated 5-2-19. See reply below.
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Old 04-30-2019, 07:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
I have done the 3/8 plywood on a larger camper. T264SR model. That floor plan and the 8,600# GVWR and has the cargo capacity to allow the added weight. It is a beautiful roof and a direct walk on, it just weighs more.

I have recently just completed a T2363 (5,500# GVWR) and a T286SR (8,600# GVWR) using 3/16" exterior glue, AB faced flooring underlayment.

On the T2363 (a 21 ft camper) it added 47 pounds more than the original Sunline roof. On the T286SR (a 30ft camper) it added 54 pounds more than the original. This solution was a good compromise from a weight verse strength ratio. It is still not a direct walk on roof, but it has a lot of upsides over the orignal roof.

If this interests you, I have lots of info and pics on it if wanted. Just ask.

Hope this helps

John

PS, when you redo the roof, consider doing an Eternabond roof seal taping over all the new sealants on the roof. Just wait 30 days for the Dicor sealants to gas off before the Eternabond. It will take some time and can be done in phases, but you can say goodbye to roof caulking going bad on you. More info on this too if wanted.
Thanks for the info. Those weight differentials were less than I was thinking it would be.

I'd gladly take any info and pics that you have. I know opinions on roof vary, so the more info I can process to make a good decision, the better.

Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2019, 09:02 PM   #4
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Hi John,

Are you selling the T-2363 by any chance?


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
I have done the 3/8 plywood on a larger camper. T264SR model. That floor plan and the 8,600# GVWR and has the cargo capacity to allow the added weight. It is a beautiful roof and a direct walk on, it just weighs more.

I have recently just completed a T2363 (5,500# GVWR) and a T286SR (8,600# GVWR) using 3/16" exterior glue, AB faced flooring underlayment.

On the T2363 (a 21 ft camper) it added 47 pounds more than the original Sunline roof. On the T286SR (a 30ft camper) it added 54 pounds more than the original. This solution was a good compromise from a weight verse strength ratio. It is still not a direct walk on roof, but it has a lot of upsides over the orignal roof.

If this interests you, I have lots of info and pics on it if wanted. Just ask.

Hope this helps

John

PS, when you redo the roof, consider doing an Eternabond roof seal taping over all the new sealants on the roof. Just wait 30 days for the Dicor sealants to gas off before the Eternabond. It will take some time and can be done in phases, but you can say goodbye to roof caulking going bad on you. More info on this too if wanted.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:02 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ynpmoose View Post
Thanks for the info. Those weight differentials were less than I was thinking it would be.

I'd gladly take any info and pics that you have. I know opinions on roof vary, so the more info I can process to make a good decision, the better.

Thanks!
Hi,

I'll comment on the weights first, then a second reply on the decking pics etc.

Yes, the weight difference is something to understand. I never realized what made up the Sunline rubber roof system weights until I started weighing the parts that come off and then what you need to add to replace it. For sure, the Sunline rubber/budboard combination is a lot lighter compared to other brands using 7/16 or 1/2" OSB full walk on decking to bond the rubber too. But, there are other things that add weight with the Sunline roof that will come off in addition to the rubber/budboard combination.

See here on the T2363 (19’ 1” of roof decking, 24’ 2” length camper). This is with the rubber/budboard removed and what you will see.




Notice there is also a piece of 1/8" luan across the full width of back of the camper. It is about 20" wide. The left end is cut off as it was rotted there.

See all the added reinforcing pieces they have around most all roof penetrations. Most are squares about 24" of 1/8 luan around those areas. On the roof antenna, there is a square of 1/2" OSB. They have to stiffen up certain areas so the ponding effect will not happen as bad around those areas.

See the pile to the right of this pic. That pile is what will be removed when you convert to a sheeting substrate. The 2 x 3's in the pile is rotted wood that was removed during the restoration effort and not part of the roof weights.


And here is a 2007 T286SR (25 ft, 4.5” of roof decking, 29’ 10” length camper) with the rubber/budboard removed. The same added reinforcing pieces exist around certain roof areas. This same pile of reinforcing pieces seems to fit all the TT’s that have 3 roof vents and AC with the rubber roof.





Here is listing on the weights: You can maybe use some of this to determine what your roof may change by.

Roofing material weights:
1. Sunline rubber membrane glued to budboard : 0.29 lb/in. of running length of 8’ 2” wide material
2. Dicor 40 mil EPDM rubber material: 0.206 lb/in. of running length of 8’ 2” wide material
3. Integraply flooring substrate, 5.5mm (0.217" ) thick: 0.438 lb/in. of running length of 8’ wide sheet. Full 4 x 8 sheet weighs 21 lb.

2005 T2363 – Roof decking length 230” long, rubber roof membrane 236” long (the membrane overhangs both ends.

69 lb. - old rubber bonded to budboard (236" lg)
8 lb. - 1/2" OSB reinforcement boards removed.
18 lb. - 1/8" sheets of luan reinforcement.

95 lb. - Total original T2363 roof material weight

New roof using 0.217" thick Integraply underlayment plywood
101 lb. Integraply plywood, 230" length x 0.438 lb/in = 101
49 lb. Rubber membrane only. 236" length x Dicor 40 mil thk. 0.206 lb/in. = 49 lb

T2363: 150 lb. new roof weight

I made a typo in my first post, 150# new roof – 95# old roof = 55# gain for new roof.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2007 T286SR – Roof decking length 304.5” long, rubber roof membrane 310.5” long (the membrane overhangs both ends.

90 lb. - old rubber bonded to budboard (310.5" lg)
8 lb. - 1/2" OSB reinforcement boards removed.
18 lb. - 1/8" sheets of luan reinforcement.

116 lb. - Total original T286SR roof material weight

New roof using 0.217" thick Integraply underlayment plywood
134 lb. Integraply plywood, 304.5" length x 0.438 lb/in = 134 lb.
64 lb. Rubber membrane only. 310.5" length x Dicor 40 mil thk. 0.206 lb/in. = 64 lb

T286SR: 198 lb. new roof weight

I made a typo in my first post, 198# new roof – 116# old roof = 82# gain for new roof.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo View Post
Hi John,

Are you selling the T-2363 by any chance?
Hi Joan, no the T2363 is not for sale. Sorry. If one does come up, I will let you know.
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:01 PM   #7
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Here is some info on the decking I used.

For a full walk on roof with 3/8" BC plywood, see this post on a 2006 T264SR.(8,600# GVWR) Lots of pics of the entire process. It may help you. This floor plan and the camper cargo capacity allowed adding the walk on feature without losing too much of the cargo capacity to be a concer. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...avy-16834.html

With the last 2 campers I did, losing cargo capacity was a concern. The T2363 on a 5,500# GVWR chassis did not have a lot of of room to loose excess cargo capacity.

On the T286SR on a 8,600# GVWR chassis adding a lot of excess weight was a concern. This is close to a 30 ft camper and was already loaded to the limit.

Going with 1/8" luan on the entire roof was an option, just I did not like it being so thin. How to screw it down being one of the concerns. The head of the screw is more than the thickness of the board. I have used 1/8" luan before on spot repairs, just not an entire roof.

Going with a full 1/4" would be nice, still not full walk on but had a lot less screw issues. But it adds more weight. I went searching for 3/16" and finding true 3/16" is not easy to find. I never did find true 3/16". But I did find this Integraply 5.5 mm (0.217). They call is 1/4" nominal, but it is not. There is a thickness tolerance on it so call it a heavy 3/16" or a light 1/4". It fit the bill.

We have Menards lumber yards here and they handle it, IntegraPly. They use it as underlayment for floors. See here https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...329474&ipos=10

A cut sheet on the material. https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/me...structions.pdf

It is BC sanded, solid, exterior glue and cost effective. While they might not have this in your area, check for floor underlayment products.

Here are some pics of the 2005 T2363 during the install process. You may end up wasting an extra sheet just to get the joints to land on top of a truss in the middle. Oddly enough, the T2363 took 7 sheets to cover while the T286SR also took 7. The rafters are not on exact 16" centers. Some more like 18" and some 14". Floor plan and where vent holes and the roof AC unit sort of drive the odd rafter locations.

In this case, I started in the middle of the camper and worked towards the ends, just to deal with the sheet drops to reuse as I could.


Then I worked it towards the back


Then the front to complete it.


Every sheet had to be cut to width. There was no 48" wide piece on this floor plan.

This being a thin as it is, you have to really screw it down. The X's on the sheet help show the spacing.


And you have to countersink every hole before putting the screw in. If not, the flat head screw will crack the plywood and leave a humped up head. The plywood is made from hardwoods so it will not form flat like pine etc. Get 2 drill motors, countersink in one, cordless drill with a slip clutch in the other and go at it. Set the torque to be just right and just about every screw goes down flush. Use a sharp edge putty knife to feel for heads sticking up. You do not want to over countersink (to deep) either on purpose. Divets in the rubber will come as glue does not stick to the steel and the head being lower, leaves a little pock mark with no rubber support. It is still functional and not a concern, just I would not want to do all of them like that on purpose.



Ideally you want to get a countersink you can adjust the pilot bit depth and the countersink dept. I bought one with a carbide cutter on the countersink. It works sweet!


Here is the T2363 with the rubber on. I have not yet finished the rest of the roof. Doing that now.


Here is the T286SR. This one I could start at the back wall and work towards the front. The sheets came out that way. I still had to cut every sheet on the width, but it went well.


Working my way down towards the front


Almost done






And finished, on the roof that is


A consideration since you are doing a new roof, at least 1 month after the new Dicor sealant is on, up to about no more than 2 years, do an Eternabond tape upgrade over "all" the caulk. You will no longer have caulk failures. And to protect the roof and everything else up there, clean and treat the roof every 3 to 4 months it is exposed to the sun with 303 Aerospace UV protectant. It makes a real big difference in the longevity of the roof rubber, E bond, all the plastic up there and the Dicor. A few pics of the process.


The front seam during the process


The gutter rails, fully covered down to the bottom of the gutter. No exposed screws and no vinyl screw cover


If you want more on the Eternabond process let me know. I have a lot on it and what it helps prevent.

Hope this helps with your decision. Please consider doing a post with pic's on your roof project. They are really helpful for folks coming behind you. There is no one way to do this, the more ideas the better.

John
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Old 05-05-2019, 09:34 AM   #8
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Thanks John.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner but I had a heck of a time with the new log in until I realized I had to use my RV Park Reviews password. I think as I haven't logged out yet to see if I can log back in!

BTW superior work and post as usual


Quote:
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Hi Joan, no the T2363 is not for sale. Sorry. If one does come up, I will let you know.
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Old 05-05-2019, 02:49 PM   #9
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Wow John, I don't ever want to have to do an RV roof, but darn it, your pics make me wish that I could. That looks just plain awesome and CLEAN!
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Old 05-21-2019, 08:47 AM   #10
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Thank you so much for all of this. It is really, really helpful. I will certainly post up a thread once I can get this started. I have to work outside, so I need a find few consecutive days of clear weather.
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Old 05-22-2019, 10:16 PM   #11
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You are very welcome. Glad it helped. If you need any input on the what and where to get the materials, let me know. Glad to pass on what I did if it would help.

Getting a few consecutive days of good weather, I have not yet found out how to order that up... The weather here in central OH is all over the place right now. Both in temperature and daily rain showers.
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:38 AM   #12
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Haha, yes the weather might prove to be difficult, especially if this takes longer than I think. When you had to work outside, did you just tarp it if needed?

My uncle has a large pole barn that I could probably work in, but it's about an hour and a quarter from me. It might be worth the drive in this case.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:29 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ynpmoose View Post
When you had to work outside, did you just tarp it if needed?

My uncle has a large pole barn that I could probably work in, but it's about an hour and a quarter from me. It might be worth the drive in this case.
Before my pole barn came in Aug. 2013, yes all work was outside when working on our any one of our Sunlines. (Nov. 2003 to Aug 2013)

The big blue tarp was the method when I had to deal with opening the camper to the elements.

I was in this blue tarp mode for about 5 to 6 weeks dealing with slide floor rot. Myself alone, only working weekends.


But doing a slide is a lot less intrusive than taking the roof off. There are a number of things you could do at your place in preparation for lifting the rubber. The AC unit, all the roof vents, the shower dome, all 4 corner moldings could come off beforehand. That is about 1 to 2 days work for only one person. The first time through it, maybe 2 to 3 days.

If you are towing it 1.5 hours, leave the front, rear and gutter moldings on as they hold the rubber down. Once the rubber comes up, then you have to cover the camper in some manner.

We have had members take the entire front of the camper apart and only use a tarp. Doing a whole roof, the tarp will still work, the magnitude of size is different.

When we did my sons roof job, I was still working and well, he is still working... So it was only weekends and we did this through the winter. But we were inside a non insulated pole barn. We had to not work a few weekends as doing work at 5F was not really doable. 25F and above was tolerable to an extent. It took the 2 of us using only weekends, about 3.5 months. And about 3 of those weekends we did not work. It was 268 work hours between us. But we had rot repair to do too. An entire rear wall and the front wall was off, so that made it longer to deal with the rot repair. Odds are favorable you may found some level of water damage you will deal with.

You can do it with a tarp, inside is for sure nicer. But if it is 1.5 hrs away for the barn, that is 3 hrs round trip and how many days are you going to do that? This is not going to be a fast job by yourself. If you have 3 to 4 helpers, and no rot repair, then it will go a lot quicker.

Hope this helps

John
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"...See here on the T2363 (19’ 1” of roof decking, 24’ 2” length camper). ...
Hello John,
Is the dicor EPDM 40 mil thick and 8'6" x 21' as a replacement membrane for the T2363?
Thank you.

I am seeking to replace my T2363 roof and cannot find the EPDM membrane as of yet. I found TPO. I see it is more rigid. Do you have thoughts on TPO?
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Hello John,
Is the dicor EPDM 40 mil thick and 8'6" x 21' as a replacement membrane for the T2363?
Thank you.

I am seeking to replace my T2363 roof and cannot find the EPDM membrane as of yet. I found TPO. I see it is more rigid. Do you have thoughts on TPO?
XTRM PVC membrane seems even more durable with less maintenance. Is this the best choice?
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Old 01-05-2022, 08:00 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Sunnyfamily View Post
Hello John,
Is the dicor EPDM 40 mil thick and 8'6" x 21' as a replacement membrane for the T2363?
Thank you.

I am seeking to replace my T2363 roof and cannot find the EPDM membrane as of yet. I found TPO. I see it is more rigid. Do you have thoughts on TPO?
Quote:
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XTRM PVC membrane seems even more durable with less maintenance. Is this the best choice?
Hi Sunnyfamily,

I did use a 8' 6" wide 21 ft long piece of Dicor EPDM roofing on a 2005 T2363.

Yes, it is getting harder to find white 40 mil EPDM. I have not had a chance to call Dicor direct and get the scoop on it, but white 40 mil EPDM is scarce to find. I have heard RV style 40 mil EPDM is being phased out, but I have not heard that from Dicor, only that suppliers can't seem to get white 40 mil EPDM.

But, I know 2 places that sell 60 mil white EPDM. It is commercial grade EPDM and it comes 10 ft wide. If you are going to stick with EPDM, then the 60 mil is an option.

The big question is, which roof membrane is better? Cost wise, there are differences and the marketing adds all seem to point to each is the best. Here is my take on this from my findings.

White shed layer, RV EPDM (10 year mfg warrantee) is a proven membrane (~ (~30 - 40 years) with lots of years in the field. Dicor made the Sunline roofing EPDM, their trade name, Bright-ply https://dicorproducts.com/product/di...ubber-roofing/

When the white shed layer wears and you see the black EPDM rubber start to show, you know it is time to do a roof coating or a re-roof. If EPDM has been "well cared for since early in it's life" I have one campers worth of data to show only 50% of the white layer has wore down and there are no spider cracks in the white shed layer in 18 years in service. Well cared for, meant it was washed and UV protectant applied after every wash. This is my 2004 T310SR built in Nov 2003.

That said, I have restored several Sunline 2004 - 2007 campers where the roof was very neglected, no washing or very little, no UV treatment, only the EPDM exposed to the world all year long. All of the 2004's (3), 2005's (2), 2006's (2), 2007's (3) all 10 of those campers has spider cracks in the white shed layer and one of the 2004's has the black layer exposed I believe due to someone over scrubbing during roof cleaning along the way. The 04's/05's had worse spider cracks (more of them, and longer) then the 2007's. The 06's where in the middle. The spider cracks in the white shed layer are not a leak, but when they get mega big, they can expose the black layer to UV rays and create a problem long term. None of those 10 campers leaked due to a failed membrane, all had sealant issues. If a UV protectant was used and the roof washed/maintained, those roof membranes would of been in good shape. EPDM does have a larger issue of dirt sticking/bonding to it if not washed routinely. Black dirt streaks on the camper sides can be worse with EPDM verses TPO or PVC.

RV style TPO, is now a very common roof. RV TPO had a bad learning curve when it came out with a fleece backing and other formulation issues. Think early 2000's time frame. They have solved the original issues and the Alfa Systems Super Flex TPO (30 mil) comes with a 15 year warranty. These folks: https://alphallc.us/products/roofing/

The material does thin as it ages. And I have no good data to prove if it cracks or not when it is in the 15 - 20 year range. It is hard to know when the shedding/thinning gets to be too thin and needs a coating or re-roof. The material is one solid color and no black layer like the EPDM to easily see. When the 15 year time comes, you would need to do an intrusive test of sorts to measure the thickness to approximate where you are at in wear life. The Super Flex TPO is cheaper then the 60 mil EPDM in today's Covid pricing and even before Covid, but it use to not be that bad pre-covid.

RV style PVC, (Lasalle Bristol EXTRM Ply, 20-27 mil, 15 year warranty) is also now a very common roofing. These folks: https://www.lasallebristol.com/xtrm-ply-pvc/

RV PVC had a bad learning curve when it came out with early cracking. Think early 2000's time frame also. They have corrected those early issues. I talked with the Lasalle Bristol factory rep on using PVC as I have a project camper with it on it, and wanted to use some more of it. The project camper had a bad install by the local dealer for the last owner and they cracked the membrane when installing the awning mounts. They also stapled the decking and the staples are popping up, not good. But the PVC roof is very comparative to the TPO, but it is different. PVC sheds too by design and the same thickness issue on how to check it exists like TPO when it comes time to recoat or replace. It does not have a black layer like the EPDM. PVC is cheaper the EPDM with Covid pricing. PVC and TPO can be close in price pending where you buy it.

So where does all that leave one trying to sort this out?

For a re-roof with a new membrane, any one of the 3 above will give 15 year service on the "membrane" (not the sealants) and you may be able to go a lot longer depending how the camper is cared for and how it is covered/stored over the winter. Being in the sun all year long for 15 years will wear the roof from UV exposure. If you block that UV for the off season with a RV cover or under a roof/building, it will greatly extend the life of the roof.

For cleaning, the PVC cleans the easiest from what I have found. If you wash it like you do your car, the dirt just falls off with a gently push of the car brush and some soap in the water. TPO cleans close to the same as TPO, but PVC is still easier. EPDM when the roof has been washed routinely, the roof cleans like it does on your car to get the dirt off, but not as easy as TPO or PVC. If the EPDM roof is neglected, it can take more work to get EPDM back to being good. I have some data on PVC that the roof not cleaned and lived outside to 3 to 4 years, wiped clean instantly with a paper towel. I was shocked it cleaned that easy. And I have 3 year never cleaned data on TPO that it does clean easier then 3 years of a EPDM roof that was never cleaned.

I will mention this about the 3 roofs above. This is something to realize, it should not affect the buying decision, but needs to be understood.

When EPDM is wet, do not service the roof by getting on it. Slime buildup/mold and the roof being wet etc. can increase the chance of you slipping off the roof.

PVC and TPO have it even worse then EPDM for slipperiness when wet. PVC is smooth and when wet, is like having wet feet walking on ice. It is very non forgiving and odds are high you will slip. TPO, (Superflex) has a texture to the surface to help not be as slippery, but it is still bad news to service the roof when wet. Bottom line, do not get on any roof with EPDM, PVC or TPO when it is wet or damp.

This sort of comes down to, how long do you want to keep the camper and what cost do you want to pay?

The 60 mil, white commercial grade EPDM that can be bought now, will cost the most, and will most likely last the longest. It is commercial grade and not RV grade. It has a 20 year warranty. It comes 10 ft wide so you have a large waste factor as you only use about 8' 3" wide.

The sites I am listing below I have bought from and they are reputable places from what I have experienced. I shop them all for cost as they change over time.

Here is where you can buy 60 mil white EPDM. Best Materials, a commercial roof supply house in Phoenix AZ. They list 20 years warranty https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884

Or here at Flair Distribution, an RV wholesale place in Elkhart IN. It is listed at 12 year warranty.
https://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884

Flair had free shipping the last I bought a membrane from them, Best Materials charges freight.

PPL Motor homes used to sell EPDM. I bought white 40 mil last summer from them, but they are out of it now. However, PPL offers 40 mil gray and tan EPDM as of tonight.

I found tonight a 25' piece of 40 mil Dicor Bright ply EPDM at RV Upgrades here in Ohio. They only have 2 left. They may sell out soon. All the other EPDM sizes are out of stock. They have free freight after $99
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/dicor...-p/38-9042.htm

TPO and or PVC. These folks carry both most of the time. Supplies charge over time.

Flair Distribution
https://www.flairdistribution.com/collections/roofing

PPL Motorhomes
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/search...&categoryId=92

Rec Pro. They used to carry EPDM, but no longer and TPO may be limited pending stock.
https://www.recpro.com/rv-roofing/

RV Upgrades has Dicro TPO they call it DI Flex II
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Rubbe...pair-s/134.htm

Etrailer, they have free freight over $99
https://www.etrailer.com/rvmembrane-...tm?&Redirect=8

Lippert Components bought Alpha Systems, so they sell the Alpha TPO on their web store.
https://store.lci1.com/catalogsearch.../?q=super+flex

Shop for the total out the door price on all of the above. Some sell kits others by the foot. I myself buy roofing by the foot to not have to overbuy extra which many times is cheaper then a kit that is longer.

Covid has really goofed up all the roofing pricing big time. Supply and demand is all over the map. I just ordered a 27 foot long 8' 6" Superflex TPO membrane from Flair Distribution that arrived today for a camper I'm working on. The only EPDM I could find that long, is the 60 mil 10 ft wide. I could not justify the cost of the EPDM to the TPO. I would of bought the 40 mil EPDM if I could of found it. But the Alpha TPO, Dicor TPO or the Lasalle Bristol PVC is not a bad choice either.


Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more info.

John

PS, If you go Alfa Systems Super Flex TPO, lets talk on which bonding adhesive to get. I did not get mine from Flair as they did not sell the 8011 slower drying adhesive I went to Lippert direct and was good cost wise.
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Old 01-05-2022, 08:02 PM   #17
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Sunnyfamily,

What year is your camper and what is driving you to a new roof membrane? Pending that answer, there are other options then a total re-roof.

Thanks

John
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Old 01-06-2022, 12:58 PM   #18
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Thank you for the detailed reply John. My 2004 Solaris Lite current roof condition photos attached.
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Old 01-06-2022, 09:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunnyfamily View Post
Thank you for the detailed reply John. My 2004 Solaris Lite current roof condition photos attached.
Hi Sunny,

Your welcome.

It sounded like you tried to show some pics. They are not viewing. Pics really help in these cases, please try again. The more we can see, the better we can help. A whole roof shot, the front and rear roof seams, any of the caulking on the gutter rails, shower dome etc., a close up of the rubber itself to see how cracked the white layer is. If the camper is under cover, then post what you have. I know the weather is not the greatest right now for picture taking up north here, but if the camper is in FLA, then you may have access to get them.

There are 3 ways to add pics.

1. Upload pics to a specific post attaching them at the end of the post.

2. Linking them in from a public viewable web photo hosting service you have.

See here for 1 and 2 instructions https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post86041

3. You can upload pics to the forum in your own personal photo album. Then link them to anywhere in the text of a post. See here on how to create an album. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post87945

If you still get stuck, let us know.

Once we can see what your roof looks, like along with some questions and answers from you, we can suggest other options that you can choose from.

A few questions for you to answer to go along with your pics to help create a repair plan.

1. Do you know of any water damage in the roof system? Yes/no? if yes, what areas?

2. Do you know if there are any extra soft spots on the roof? A soft spot is an area of the roof what feels like a rubber band bouncy feel, like an inflated tire tube, rubber feeling. This extra soft feel is very different then the normal Sunline bud board semi stiff/semi flexible area of the roof. The more common extra soft spots show up are these areas;

A. At of the 4 corners of the roof.
B. Along the front seam to front siding transition.
C. Along the rear wall seam to rear siding transition.
D. By the shower dome area.
E. By the fridge roof vent area.
F. By the roof TV or radio antenna.
G. By any of the 2 or 3 crank up roof vents, or the black and grey tank roof vent.

H. Or, any other area of the roof where there is caulking sealant or a hole in the rubber that are extra soft?

3. How many years do think you may want this roof repair to last? This sort of ties into how many years you want to keep this camper. If you know you are going to sell the camper in 2 to 3 years, that may suggest one route to go. If you want to keep the camper in good condition for as long as you want, 10 plus years for example, then that may suggest a different more longer lasting repair. The 10 plus year plan could cost a little more then the 2- 3 year plan, but you could keep your camper a good long time or give/sell it to a family member. Give us some info on your camper plans.

4. Do you have someone who has basic wood working skills, basic wood working tools and can do the roof repair work for you? We can help with the how to, and what to do, but someone on your end needs to be able to do it. OR do you have to hire out all the labor as you do not have access the person to help?

5. What floor plan model is your 2004 Sunline Lite? It would be a T-(some 4 digit number)

To create a total roof get well plan, there are options that come from the questions & answers above beyond a total re-roof. An assessment needs to be done on what condition your roof is in now, how long you want this repair to last, and who is doing the work. Then you can pic from options on what fits your situation best. Your 2004 camper is new enough, that you may have other options beyond a total re-roof to pick from.

Once we can see the roof, along with answers to the 5 questions above, we can try to create a list of options for you to pick from. Then you choose which fits best for you.

I'm not trying to talk you out of a total re-roof, just help show what else can be done that can last as long or longer then a new re-roof job. But it comes back to, how good or not is the current roof.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-07-2022, 06:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunnyfamily View Post
Thank you for the detailed reply John. My 2004 Solaris Lite current roof condition photos attached.
attachment attempt again
Attached Images
File Type: jpg FA7C2F28-81C2-4A90-8F59-8AEAC8A78174.jpg (104.5 KB, 6 views)
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