Repair or replace Atwood WH

[Ilean826]

Recently purchase a T170 we think it’s 1990. Previous owners told us WH was not working but not sure of the exact problem. Having trouble finding a new one in stock so was thinking of trying to repair. Anyone have experience repairing? Elevator mechanic not a plumber so not real confident. Also open to any suppliers you might know.

[JohnB]

Hi,

You are right, there is a supply issue going on now trying to find complete replacement Atwood water heaters. While parts for the older ones are available, complete heaters are scarce on any model. Dometic who bought out Atwood may have discontinued the older models as a complete heater.

I just went through the checkout and rebuild of a 2003 vintage Atwood water heater. In my case the tank was still good and I only needed to replace some parts which was cost effective for me against and all new heater. See this link which will drop you in the middle of a complete camper restoration to the water heater. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post154839

I would say this for yours, start with the tank, if the tank leaks or is badly corroded inside after inspection, then stop the rebuild and look at plan B.

If the tank has passed the first wave of testing, then the gas valve is next. Odds can be, that gas valve is corroded badly. A new valve which is available can range between $100 to $130. The problem may be, getting the old valve out and not destroying the tank threads which puts you back at a bad tank. But, you have nothing to loose by trying.

If you can get past the gas valve, then I would suggest new safety relief for about $40. Again getting it out and not damaging the tank threads.

The gas burner if it needs replacing is about $35.

If it comes to needing an all new heater, you have some options. All of them will require wiring changes and plumbing changes that you do not have now. And some may require a hole size in the camper to be adjusted. Check that before buying so you know what to expect. If you hunt at RV dealers, they may have an older all gas style heater like you have now, stored away in their warehouse. Or a model of the same style that fits in the hole in the camper, just you have to update wiring.

Dometic who bought Atwood is now selling their new version. See here https://www.dometic.com/en-us/hygien.../water-heaters

They are for sale, an all gas one with electronic ignition, https://www.ganderoutdoors.com/domet...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

The new Dometic combo https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...8aArO1EALw_wcB

And one other option, switch to Suburban. I have never done this myself, but I know if it. Suburban makes a heater that is a supposed to fit in the older Atwood frame cutouts. See here https://www.airxcel.com/rv/suburban/...e-water-heater

They are a good heater, have different tanks then the Atwood, but a good heater. They are available. But check the size to make sure it will fit the hole in the camper.
https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...gallon_81.0972

Amazon has one left too.

Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out.

[Ilean826]

Thank you so much for this excellent information! Really appreciate.

[Ilean826]

We decided to replace our hot water heater. Working on getting one today. Just trying to figure out the water system and all the valves/bypasses. I have attached a picture of some T like valves. Anyone know what or why they are there? Also included a picture of line leaving water heater. There are multiple valves and lines. We are assuming that valves will bypass city vs tank water?
Have done lots of house DIY but new to the RV game and it’s definitely different.
DB246FC9-031B-4642-A1D9-4B7E51FF827E.jpg

16BFF17F-FC0D-4FCC-B434-D445FC57CF1B.jpg

[krazedave]

Hello. In the first picture the valves are your low point drain valves to drain your hot and cold water lines usually before winterizing the water system. The valves in the second picture of the water heater are used to bypass the water heater after it is drained when winterizing the water system. Your water pump is what works as an automatic check valve for city water or tank water.

[Ilean826]

Thank you! I’m not sure I understand the water pump being the check valve. I don’t have to shut or open any of the valves at the hot water tank? So basically whenever using water system for either connection just keep all valves open? Use the pump when using white water tank and it will take care of itself? Guess I was making it more complicated than it is.

[krazedave]

Don't worry about the water pump thing it just works. Your water heater right now looks like the valves are on bypass. They should be turned in line with the water lines. The problem is that there are a couple of different bypass setups. some are two one or three valves. Is there another valve between the two seen in the picture?

[Ilean826]

Yes there is one on the bottom which is the cold side. I think we should be able to figure this out by using it. Putting in new WH tomorrow and then will run water system to test. Hopefully it will all make sense then. Your explanation helped a lot. Thank you!

[krazedave]

You are welcome. If it is a three valve bypass to use it the hot and cold valves should be open and the center valve closed and then the opposite when winterizing. Good luck with the install.