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Old 05-12-2021, 01:06 PM   #1
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SUN #12619
Maggie is an unknown quantity at this point
Holding tank replace/repair

Total Newbie here!!

I was trying to find a replacement black tank and came across this forum. The previous maker was Wevac Plastic Corp. HT-2470EC-7

Before I find an RV place, I'd like to find pricing. A bit of a sticker shock. One we took out is 70L 23.5W 84.5D

Any leads on where is best to look? Go?

Now I'm regretting not trying to fix it first after reading some of the threads here, but husband already cut into it to remove. No going back.

I would like to try and save grey tank.
I found a post by Frank (10514) in '08 and one by EMD driver (10555).

I need just a little more on what exactly I need and if I can fix this without taking it out. And maybe a little more 1-2-3 on attaching a drain pipe to the tank. We know how to fit the pipes together. It's this part.....

Thank you very much. I know this is asked a lot. I did try to read, but the more I am here, the more my husband is tearing stuff apart before finding more out. HELP
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Old 05-12-2021, 05:12 PM   #2
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Hi Maggie,

Welcome!

You have a few options on your tank. By the size of the drain hole, a 3" drain like that is normally used as a black tank for the toilet. Not sure if you have removed the tank yet, if you do, the toilet inside needs to be removed and the toilet floor flange removed inside the camper and there is a roof vent pipe that vents the tank to the roof to deal with. While the toilet floor flange may be screwed into the tank and unscrewed, the vent pipe has two normal ways of attaching to the tank. They solvent weld the pipe in or the use a rubber grommet and the pipe just shoves into the grommet and the pipe is held by straps of sorts to not fall into the tank.

Not sure which method your camper has, but you will have to deal with them if you plan on taking the tank out. They are not impossible to deal with, just research how your is made first before attempting to drop the tank.

If you need help or want to know how Sunline did the toilet floor flange and the tank vent pipe, let us know and I can post pics etc. of at least that method. If you have an inspection camera,(borescope) you can scope out inside the tank and see how they are attached.

A new tank, I have bought products from these folks often and I find their quality to be very good. They will sell direct and sometimes their products show up on Amazon, Camping World or other places actually cheaper sometimes.

ICON- Direct https://www.icondirect.com/waste-hol...atured&page=11

I looked and this one is close. It may not be exact but you may be able to adapt it to fit. They have others that are close too.
https://www.icondirect.com/holding-t...rain-ht192bed/

You will have to deal with the toilet and the vent getting them out of the old tank and adding new ports on the new tank if you go the new tank route.

From the looks of your tank break, that is a nice clean looking break. I myself would try to repair it first. We have had folks fix some pretty busted up tanks, not as clean looking as yours.

It appears the solvent weld on the bottom of the tank failed. And that started a leak.

Here are a few options for the fix.

Solvent weld back on the old fitting. The entire area has to be spotless clean, the area is very dirty right now, but it should clean up. Soap and water, scrub to get most of the dirt off. Then a floor scrub brush and keep trying to get all the dirt out of the area.

You clean the tank and the fittings. If there is super stuck on dirt, mineral spirts and a rag may help or a rotary wire brush on a drill or die grinder. The point is, any contaminates needs to be removed to allow the solvent weld to work.

Here are 2 more posts to help on ABS plastic repair. Your tank is made from ABS plastic most likely.

This one is mine, doing the Frank method on other parts. You do the same method and prep for the waste tanks.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...zel-18665.html

Here is one using Plasti-mend. This is on a black tank and uses mesh to help strengthen the joints.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...air-14865.html

Here is the Plasti-mend web site. You may need to call them as their web site is still in the making. You are looking for the Plasti-Mend black.
https://new.plasti-mend.com/

Here are some things that may help.

Icon sells ABS chips in place of grinding up plastic yourself to make the welding paste. https://www.icondirect.com/holding-t...ve-1-lb-black/

Icon also sells a new 3" weld on flange. Not sure you need it, but they have it if you do.
https://www.icondirect.com/holding-t...-3inch-spigot/

ABS sheet can also be bought. McMaster Carr sells it and Ebay as well.

https://www.mcmaster.com/abs-sheets/...to-form-abs-6/

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...sheet&_sacat=0

That should get you started. Ask away if you have more questions.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-12-2021, 05:18 PM   #3
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Looking at this pic, the 3" port adapts down to what may be 1 1/2". And that may very well be a grey water tank with a drain that small. If so, the good news you do not need to deal with the toilet, but there are still grey water drain pipes and a roof vent pipe to deal with going into the tank.

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Old 05-12-2021, 06:42 PM   #4
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Putting it back together

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
That should get you started. Ask away if you have more questions.

Hope this helps

John
WOW, thank you so very much! While I was trying to find info on stuff, husband already took out the black tank and pulled the spigot completely off grey (it was already loose). Unfortunately he totaled the black tank, and there is no choice but to buy a new one The link you shared looks like it is practically the same tank (sticker shock )

The pictures above are of the grey water tank. I am hoping to be able to attach the spigot back on without having to remove it. I really wanted him to leave it be for now since a little leak in grey tank wouldn't have been a huge deal for my coming trip. But as it stands, I will now have NO water.

Do you think we can reattach the two pieces with the described methods? We will need to find a way to hold the pieces together while it is drying and setting. Just need to make sure to find the correct bonding agents.

I am a bit concerned with putting in the new black tank. It looks like one has to get those holes drilled and lined up perfectly. We got it apart, but the getting it back together seems almost harder.

I am hoping the vent pipe (attached image) is still okay. How on earth does one reattach it to new tank? There is no access to said pipe above (in a wall). I know I have to get those rubber gasket like fittings that pop into the holes in the tank. We can figure out the toilet part with the flange and all. I just don't know about the vent......

Unfortunately the trailer repair company I used for some other stuff really got me on some repairs (was quoted $2000 estimate and when I went to pick it up, got a $4600 bill -no warning- and I didn't add anything from first estimate). They have a good reputation, but don't think I'll be going back there ever again..... I used them in the past with good results. idk

Thanks,
Maggie
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:16 PM   #5
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Hi Maggie,

This may help.

You can buy new tank grommets. Icon-Direct is one company who supply's them.

See here https://www.icondirect.com/search.ph...ection=product

The tank vents most likely are 1 1/2", for sure on the black tank, but could be 2" https://www.icondirect.com/holding-t...ubber-grommet/

Amazon sells them, hunt for the right part numbers https://www.amazon.com/12483-Holding...3N1F32WNQADWCZ

Sometimes Sunline would use 1 1/4" on a smaller grey water tank. You will have to determine what pipe size your vents are to know you have the correct one. And the ABS pipe size follows piping standards, it will not measure exactly 1 1/2" as that is the nominal size. If you need help backing into what pipe size it is, measure the OD and post. They follow the same sizing as home PVC piping.

On how to get the vent pipe into the grommet, get the hole in the right spot on the new tank and then how to get the tank and grommet over the pipe in the camper...

This was the concern of dropping the tank. The easier part, when the new black tank comes, suggest you make a template from lexan or other clear plastic sheet. Lay it over the old tank and line up the outside edges of the tank in 2 directions, and you can see the hole in the old tank. Mark on that template accurately where the old hole was. Then transfer the template to the new tank and drill a new hole for the new grommet in the new tank.

On the 3" toilet flange, I cannot tell from your pics if the old flange was totally solvent welded into the tank. It may have been. Sunline created a threaded setup. See this post with pics. I used an inspection camera to reach into the tank and saw the threads, that told be the floor flange screwed into the tank. Then I made a spanner wrench and unscrewed it.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...elp-17689.html

Suggest for you, find a solvent weld in tank fitting that creates 3" pipe thread on the ID if it.

Create the toilet floor flange with a 3" pipe nipple on it the right length from the bathroom floor and will thread into the tank threaded flange.

Do a test fit of the tank lining up the vent pipe and mark the location of the tank exactly to the camper framework with marker etc. You are marking it so you know exactly how to put the tank back in aligned to the tank vent hole.

With the tank in the camper, and the vent pipe lined up, then looking down the bathroom floor hole where the toilet goes, mark the location of where to drill and install the 3" threaded fitting into the new tank. Remove tank, drill hole, solvent weld in the new threaded fitting.

Now how to get the tank vent connected. This is tough and I do not know how your camper is made. Sunline did theirs different. The last black tank I took out of a camper, the vent was solvent welded in. But in my case, I had the wall all apart fixing water damage. So I cut the vent pipe about a foot above the top of the tank leaving a stub pipe hanging out of the tank. The stub was short enough I could get the tank out of the camper from underneath it. When it came time to install it, the tank went back in, and we installed a solvent weld coupling and put the new pipe down from the roof area into the new coupling.

This link shows you the old tank coming out
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post150975

In your case, you have the tank grommet setup. I have not done one of them, but here is what I would try.

Using soapy water, after the grommet is in the tank, wet the grommet ID with the soapy water. On the old vent pipe under the camper, file or sand a 1/16" x 45 chamfer on the OD of the pipe if there is not one already. Wet the pipe also. The chamfer will help guide the pipe into the grommet. The soapy water acts as lube to help it slide in. Pushing it in dry may not go.

Line up the tank over the grommet and push up and hope it slides in.

If that does not work, next is to go up on the roof of the camper, remove the vent cap and hope the camper builder put the strap that holds the pipe from falling down up at the roof line and you can loosen it. What you are trying to do is pull the pipe up, put the tank in location and then push the pipe in from the roof and tighten up the pipe clamp. There are lot of assumptions here that the tank strap can be reached from the roof. It may not be.

I'm not sure what the walls inside the camper look like and if the vent pipe is exposed hidden in a shower stall area or interior cabinet. If you can get to the pipe inside the wall, then you may be able to remove the old pipe and install a new one from the roof down and fasten in place. You have to fasten the new one as the tank grommet will not hold it over time towing down the road. If the pipe drops into the tank deeper then originally, the tank will not vent right as the tank fills.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 05-13-2021, 10:19 PM   #6
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You mentioned the black tank had to be replaced. In this pic, all I see broken is the toilet floor flange. If that is all that is broken? That can be fixed. No need for an entire new tank. Is there other damage?

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Old 05-31-2021, 09:08 PM   #7
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not good at this diy stuff

[QUOTE=JohnB;155443]You mentioned the black tank had to be replaced. In this pic, all I see broken is the toilet floor flange. If that is all that is broken? That can be fixed. No need for an entire new tank. Is there other damage?

Sorry for taking so long to reply John. And again.... thank you for your help!!! I was pretty sick for 10 days there.

yes. It was the spigots that broke off on both the black and grey tank. I was looking into the diy repair option, but it would have been hard without removing the tanks to stabilize everything to reattach spigots (outlets?). My ex-husband is 'helping' and he ended up cutting the tanks to un-attach them. There was no other way to get them off! no amount of pulling/preying was going to get those tanks off.

Since I had to order one tank, I ordered both (free shipping).

Now to get it all back together! I really don't know how we will do it without having access above. The black tank will most likely be easier since there is a nice big hole in the floor where toilet goes, but how the heck do you reattach everything on the grey?! You can't get hands in there, can't even see. Near pipe in picture is set pretty rigid, but the far one has a bit of play in it. The tank takes up that entire space. I have faith that we can get the rubber grommets on new tanks in the right spots, but I have no idea how we can line that up without seeing.

Also noticing a great way for the rodents to get in, but maybe the tanks are tight enough once in that there is no space.
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Old 06-04-2021, 08:27 PM   #8
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WE DID IT!!!
Thank you so very very much for your help JohnB. So far it all seems to be working. It was a bit of a project for us first timers, but now I know a lot about my systems.
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Old 06-04-2021, 09:36 PM   #9
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GREAT!!! Glad it all worked out
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