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10-05-2015, 06:47 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 25
SUN #5726
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T2470 Heater & Vent Fan
This weekend I made some more "forward" progress in my beloved Sunline.
I savored the joys of having HEAT for the first time! A local RV shop serviced and repaired my header back in August. Last week, with fingers crossed in cooler weather I flipped the switch and the sound of the blower and tick of the igniter was music to my ears. I decided to push my luck farther and installed 4 inch flexible hose ducting, which went MUCH better than I imagined.
Enjoyed a VERY comfortable sleep, despite the cool, windy/rainy weather and woke to a toasty warm trailer!!!
Noted the next day an annoying/shrill squeak coming from the heater/blower(??) when the heater ran.
Any suggestions as to how to remedy this???
My luck ran out as I learned the hard way that the heater puts a greater strain/demand on the battery & propane tanks. By the next day I didn't have any lights (or heat...).
So I'll break down a FINALLY purchase a good, RV/Marine Deep Cycle Battery and ditch the stand alone car battery that I've been using for lights for the last two years.
I did note that I'll need some sort of "Tee" to run ducting from the rear sleeping area, onto the bathroom vent.
Didn't look at my RV supplier, but are 4" duct Tee's normally carried in these establishments, or do I have to look at Lowes (or try to make my own)?
Thought I had the bathroom's ceiling vent fan resolved, but that project didn't go very far either. Replaced the missing blade, tested the motor (still works), got a crash course on wiring [learned that white wires are "hot"], and replaced the push button switch with no effort.
Show stopper was trying to put "humpty dumpty" back together again... When screwing the screen into place, it makes contact with the face of the fan, and it's also difficult to fit/jam the wiring back into/along the bigger finishing frame/cover that screws up into the ceiling...
Anyhow, I'll have to revisit this later when I go back in a week or two to empty the tanks and prep her for winter.
As always, any suggestions/help are greatly appreciated.
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10-05-2015, 12:19 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 5
SUN #7832
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Hi,
Sorry not responding to help. But I'm about to purchase a 1986 Saturn, whose heater apparently just died. Can you tell me how much it cost you to have yours repaired?
I would have to take it to an RV place also, am no good at repairs myself...
Thanks so much!
Mo
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10-06-2015, 05:59 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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4" duct? That's pretty big I think mine is more like 1 1/2" Any way if you want to run the heat more than about two days you'll need two deep cycles (or be plugged in) the heaters are power hogs.
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10-08-2015, 06:11 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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The previous owner of my TT installed a extra heat outlet in the rear cabinet of our bedroom. They had a three-way splitter cut into the ductwork. It had two 4" outlets across from each other and one off the side at a 90 degree angle. Not so sure where they got it but I'd first try regular outlet stores before camping suppliers because of price.
If boondocking and wanting heat I think I'd try a gas heater that doesn't require any 12V electric. Keeping fresh air access is most important when using them but you can stay warm without eating up the battery.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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10-10-2015, 02:23 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 25
SUN #5726
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Greetings Mo,
Got my heater inspected, service & fixed for $100.
Apparently some "Mud Dobbers" made their nest inside, thus preventing the heater from igniting.
Since then I've invested in some outlet "mesh guards" that easily install over openings (heater and refrig), preventing insects from getting inside and wrecking havoc...
Semper Fi,
Rob
Quote:
Originally Posted by mosclark
Hi,
Sorry not responding to help. But I'm about to purchase a 1986 Saturn, whose heater apparently just died. Can you tell me how much it cost you to have yours repaired?
I would have to take it to an RV place also, am no good at repairs myself...
Thanks so much!
Mo
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10-10-2015, 02:25 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 25
SUN #5726
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Good to know! Many thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah
4" duct? That's pretty big I think mine is more like 1 1/2" Any way if you want to run the heat more than about two days you'll need two deep cycles (or be plugged in) the heaters are power hogs.
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10-10-2015, 03:43 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 932
SUN #246
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My 2363 and others,had the larger diameter ductwork...they are actually the same measurement as the circular vent flange (?) they attach to. Can't imagine a 1 1/2" heat duct hose....FYI..I bought some for mine in FL at the rv dealer and they charged me $2.00 ft. two years ago...go to Lowes or Hd first!!
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1981 Sunline1350
'86 & '87 Sunline1661
'85 2100& '87 2262 Sunlines
'96 2553 & '95 1950 Sunlines
'95 and '98 Solaris 2653's
2002 Solaris T-2363
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10-11-2015, 06:02 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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4" duct work can be bought in flexible insulated lengths pretty common in HVAC stuff big box should have it. Mine's just a "little" camper 17 feet and the only extra heat is in the bath.
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10-12-2015, 04:08 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,126
SUN #4040
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4" foil drier duct is what they used in mine, not even insolated.
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Jim and DW Darlene
2001 T-2553 Sunline Solaris
2006 GMC Sierra Duramax 2500HD 4X4
Firestone Transforce AT tires
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control
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10-12-2015, 05:27 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Yeah the silly thing in mine only heats the bath and it's not really warm at that.
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