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Old 05-10-2021, 11:56 AM   #1
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Sunline T-2970 Floor Repair

Hello All, Looking for some assistance in repairing my camper floor. Looks like i had a leak from a side compartment under the bunkbeds and it ran the whole way across the camper. The bathroom issues may be from the shower. Looks like this floor has been replaced before.. Looking for suggestions and whether or not i can remove the 3 boards in the lower part of the picture. I think they run the complete width of the camper. Any tips or suggestions would be great. I know i need to support the floor but finding the joists or someplace to fasten too may be a little tricky. Thank you in advance.. Oh and if you know a traveling repair person In Central Pa that may be able to do this i would gladly take names. I have attached pictures.
Thank you Ryan..
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Old 05-11-2021, 10:25 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweitz27 View Post

Looks like i had a leak from a side compartment under the bunkbeds and it ran the whole way across the camper. The bathroom issues may be from the shower. Looks like this floor has been replaced before..

Looking for suggestions and whether or not i can remove the 3 boards in the lower part of the picture. I think they run the complete width of the camper.

I know i need to support the floor but finding the joists or someplace to fasten too may be a little tricky.
Hi Ryan,

I can try and help. First, please confirm the year of your T-2970? That model ran from 1992 to 1999 if I backed into this right.

Reason for asking is the methods Sunline used to build the floor system have changed over the years.

Second, I did look up your floor plan so I can get an orientation of your pics. All the T2970's have the same basic rear bunks on the left side (non door side), shower on the right side (door side) and toilet/sink vanity in the center along the back wall. Is this correct?

I agree, a prior owner was into the bathroom at some point and did floor work. This is not what Sunline would have originally from what I know.


The flooring is different and the brown covering on top.

The hallway OSB floor board does look original


Now to these 3 boards stacked next to each other. Are they 2 x 3's or 2 x 4's laying flat.


Seeing that like that is well, different. I have not seen Sunline stack 3 like that in a floor system. BUT, I have not seen all the floor systems so this may be a new learning for me too.

Odds are high, they run totally left to right of the camper, they are over the top of the main trailer frame rails and then go out and hold up the walls.

I see they are heavily stained black, are they soft if you poke it with an ice pick and how deep into the wood can you stick? Test all over.

I'm asking this from a repair standpoint. The ideal way is to totally replace all 3 from wall to wall. It is doable, but we need to do some talking about how to get under the walls to do that.

Pending how good or bad the wood is, there is a resin treatment once the wood it dried out that may be used. Doing boards that thick will take time and a good amount of resin. But that option at least means you do not have to take the camper apart as much as replacing the boards. For the resin treatment you also should find the end of the black staining/rot. More floor needs to come up to get to it. Those 3 wood boards are structural.

Do you have more floor up to show how far that staining goes? The picture is cropped off and cannot tell how far it goes.

If you want to investigate replacing them, please post outside pics of the rear wall, the left side wall and the right side wall. Also take pics under the camper where the black and grey tanks are in relation to these 3 boards.

To extract those boards out of the camper, the lower first piece of siding would come off on all three of those walls and then you can get into the floor system. You would need a bottle jack or two to lift off some weight of the walls when you take them out and put new in.

This is doable, not a super simple repair, but not really hard either if you have the time and tools.

I will also ask, have you used a moisture meter to confirm you totally know where "all" the leaks came from leaking into the floor system? Doing a repair like this, one really wants to make sure they get all the water infection areas. The left and right rear roof corner seams and the left and right rear wall corner moldings leaking can end up getting a good qty of water into the floor system.

If you have not heard of these, see this post. A meter costs about $45 now, you can get them online or at some Lowes stores. They can tell you where all the leaks are and how much more of the camper has issues or not.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...per-17613.html

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 03-28-2023, 09:36 AM   #3
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Rear window leaks for bathroom T-2970

Hi, I am trying to find a replacement window for my 1998 T-2970 Sunline Solaris bathroom. It measures 26" X 15.5". This measurement is taken from the interior window frame with the interior wall covering removed. There was extensive water damage to the walls and floor including the three 2 x 4's going across the width which I have replaced with PT wood. The window will not close completely to lock I'm guessing due to old and hard weather seal on bottom frame on slider portion of window.
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Old 03-28-2023, 10:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C View Post
Hi, I am trying to find a replacement window for my 1998 T-2970 Sunline Solaris bathroom. It measures 26" X 15.5". This measurement is taken from the interior window frame with the interior wall covering removed. There was extensive water damage to the walls and floor including the three 2 x 4's going across the width which I have replaced with PT wood. The window will not close completely to lock I'm guessing due to old and hard weather seal on bottom frame on slider portion of window.
Thanks
Hi Steve,

First off welcome!

If you can post a few pics of the window you have, we may be able to help to get it to work. If you need help posting pics, let us know.

If you want to buy a new window, here is some help on this. First is to understand how the window manufactures talk about the size. The size of the window is declared as a window that will fit into the camper wall rough opening. This is the framed out with wood hole in the wall they call the rough opening. They create the window slightly smaller to fit into that rough opening. They also have radius corners or square corners, I think your 98 might be on the radius corners, but you can confirm. You will need the radius dimension of the rough opening. There should be plastic corner blocks stapled into the corners of the rough opening.

Wall thickness, on the inside of the camper, there are screws that hold the clamp ring in place. When you remove all the screws the clamp ring will come off. The window frame comes off on the outside then. On the bench, attached the clamp ring again on the window frame that touches the camper siding, then measure the distance between the window frame and the clamp ring that would be clamping the wall board inside. The window manufactures make custom clamp rings to match different total wall thickness. Also measure the wall thickness the window will clamp on. This includes the inside wall board, the 1 1/2" wall stud plus and 1/8" luan wood shims on the outside of the camper and the siding. Compare that wall thickness to the clamps ring thickness. They should line up of the clamp ring be slightly less. There is also 1/8" butyl sealing tape that goes on the siding to seal the window frame to the siding. This 1/8" gets squeezed to almost 1/16" on the high spots of the corrugated siding.

If you want the window screen, you have to request it comes with a screen.

Your vintage 98 camper used Hehr brand black framed windows. Around 2003 models Sunline switched to Kinro white framed windows. Both Hehr and Kinro have been bought by Lippert Components or LCI. They still are making Hehr and Kinro windows and will make them per order. They did not stock sizes, every window made to order.

See the bottom of the LCI site here for the customer service number. https://store.lci1.com/rv/maintenance/windows.

It is 574-537-8900. They do not list everything they make on their web store, but they will build you a window. The exact style may not be the exact same as they have discontinued some of the older styles, the new campers use different styles now.

There is also Pelland Enterprizes, these folks, https://www.pellandent.com/RV-Windows-Hehr-Kinro. Call them, this is too complex to try and order online if you have never been through this before. They sell both Hehr and Kinro. Either of those brands are good and will work in your bath.

I have bought from both places and had good service. Just be prepared a new made window may cost $200 to $600 or so with freight. It all depends on the style you are asking for and if it comes out to be an odd size for them.

You can also look on Ebay, Go to Bay and type in RV windows and search through the pile of them. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...ndows&_sacat=0

It is hit or miss if they have your size, and the seller may or may not have the clamp ring with it. But it is an option.

There are also some surplus places that sell new extra stock that they bought from the RV manufactures. This is really hit out miss, but is real cheap. I had LCI quote me a large picture window for the back of a camper, about 36 x 54" with a vent screen. It was over $1,000. I drove to Elkhart IN to Bontragers https://bontragers.com/ (4.5 hrs for me) and found a new one, surplus for $40. If they have one, you can call them, even the shipping may be cheaper than having made new.

Hope this helps and good luck on your repair.

John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
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