Originally Posted by Sweitz27
Looks like i had a leak from a side compartment under the bunkbeds and it ran the whole way across the camper. The bathroom issues may be from the shower. Looks like this floor has been replaced before..
Looking for suggestions and whether or not i can remove the 3 boards in the lower part of the picture. I think they run the complete width of the camper.
I know i need to support the floor but finding the joists or someplace to fasten too may be a little tricky.
I can try and help. First, please confirm the year of your T-2970? That model ran from 1992 to 1999 if I backed into this right.
Reason for asking is the methods Sunline used to build the floor system have changed over the years.
Second, I did look up your floor plan so I can get an orientation of your pics. All the T2970's have the same basic rear bunks on the left side (non door side), shower on the right side (door side) and toilet/sink vanity in the center along the back wall. Is this correct?
I agree, a prior owner was into the bathroom at some point and did floor work. This is not what Sunline would have originally from what I know.
The flooring is different and the brown covering on top.
The hallway OSB floor board does look original
Now to these 3 boards stacked next to each other. Are they 2 x 3's or 2 x 4's laying flat.
Seeing that like that is well, different. I have not seen Sunline stack 3 like that in a floor system. BUT, I have not seen all the floor systems so this may be a new learning for me too.
Odds are high, they run totally left to right of the camper, they are over the top of the main trailer frame rails and then go out and hold up the walls.
I see they are heavily stained black, are they soft if you poke it with an ice pick and how deep into the wood can you stick? Test all over.
I'm asking this from a repair standpoint. The ideal way is to totally replace all 3 from wall to wall. It is doable, but we need to do some talking about how to get under the walls to do that.
Pending how good or bad the wood is, there is a resin treatment once the wood it dried out that may be used. Doing boards that thick will take time and a good amount of resin. But that option at least means you do not have to take the camper apart as much as replacing the boards. For the resin treatment you also should find the end of the black staining/rot. More floor needs to come up to get to it. Those 3 wood boards are structural.
Do you have more floor up to show how far that staining goes? The picture is cropped off and cannot tell how far it goes.
If you want to investigate replacing them, please post outside pics of the rear wall, the left side wall and the right side wall. Also take pics under the camper where the black and grey tanks are in relation to these 3 boards.
To extract those boards out of the camper, the lower first piece of siding would come off on all three of those walls and then you can get into the floor system. You would need a bottle jack or two to lift off some weight of the walls when you take them out and put new in.
This is doable, not a super simple repair, but not really hard either if you have the time and tools.
I will also ask, have you used a moisture meter to confirm you totally know where "all" the leaks came from leaking into the floor system? Doing a repair like this, one really wants to make sure they get all the water infection areas. The left and right rear roof corner seams and the left and right rear wall corner moldings leaking can end up getting a good qty of water into the floor system.
If you have not heard of these, see this post. A meter costs about $45 now, you can get them online or at some Lowes stores. They can tell you where all the leaks are and how much more of the camper has issues or not.
Hope this helps.