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Old 09-27-2020, 06:27 PM   #1
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Sealand Toilet Repair Model 110 & 210

Sealand Toilet Repair

This post is on a Dometic Sealand 110 Traveler light toilet used in the 2004 campers I have seen. The 210 version is very similar, and Sunline seemed to start using the 210 on the 2005 to 2007 model campers. Not sure what the 2003 and older toilets were. The Thetford’s were in the older campers.

The Problem

Over the last two years, I have had camping friends who have had floor flange gasket leaks on this style toilet. More on this in the future reply. I thought I had a floor flange leak, but it was not. It came out to be a flush ball rotation shaft seal leak.

I noticed a wet witness line of yellow around the toilet on the floor in our 2004 T310SR last week while out camping.

Investigation

See the yellowish dirt line witness mark on the floor tile around the base of the toilet.


The moisture meter showed 0% on the right side over the witness line.


The left side showed 50% over the witness line and a number that high is an issue. By moving the meter about two inches away, all moisture dropped to 0%. H’mm, is this the start of a floor flange leak?




After flushing the black tank with lots of water, I lifted the toilet. I looked to see if the entire floor flange gasket was wet across the face, as I have seen on leaking floor flange gaskets.

The top of the floor flange gasket was dry past the seal off the surface. It is not leaking across here.


Removed the gasket and looked on the flange itself. It is not leaking across here either, but moisture had worked its way slightly into the screw hole areas at some point, as seen by the rusted screw heads. It was dry at this time.


To confirm there is no floor OSB damage, I removed the screws in the floor flange and used my homemade spanner wrench to unscrew the floor flange.






Visual inspection of the OSB floor under the tile looked all good and dry, thankfully! The moisture meter still showed high numbers in the witness area.


Wiping the floor dry with a paper towel allowed all moisture numbers to drop to 0%.




This moisture check ruled out the moisture came from a floor flange leak. The leak now pointed to a pedal water valve or the flush ball shaft leak. I cleaned up most all of the toilet before taking the water valve and flush ball apart. Here are some highlights of removing the water valve and flush ball.

Pedal water valve.


I noticed hard water mineral buildup in the incoming fresh line strainer. Good thing there is a strainer to keep that scale out of the valve.


The pedal spring unit


When I removed the pedal spring unit, I can now see signs of black water leaking. The water valve did not have any leaking indications.




I removed the bowl, flush ball, and shaft.




Here is the problem. The O-ring has become brittle and rough.



The next reply will address putting the toilet back together.
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:36 PM   #2
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The Repair

I cleaned up all the parts.

I went down to the local Napa Auto parts store to match up an O ring for $0.65, including tax.


Applied a coating of Danco silicone plumbers grease on the O ring, the flush ball shaft, and the end of the flush ball stub shaft


Insert the flush ball, then the shaft, and put in the stainless screw from the bottom up.


Put some silicone grease on the pedal cam. The pedal cam had a film of it before cleaning, so
I re-added to help the plunger slide easier.


I installed the pedal and the pedal spring unit.
NOTE: They make a black pedal spring unit and a white one. The black spring unit fits the all-plastic pedal like mine. The white one fits metal/plastic combo pedals. Make sure you buy the correct one if you are changing it.


I cleaned the mineral scale build-up out of the pedal water valve. You can use a pick to remove the screen out of the valve. NOTE: Heads up, when you pick the screen out, it can go flying (boing) across the shop, landing in the darnedest places. Cover the screen hole with a rag to catch the screen. Ask me how I know this, 20 minutes after screen hunting, I found the screen and it is all cleaned up.





I rebuilt the flush ball seal while I had it apart. You can see which side is up by the wording and line up the locator hole.


And the thicker bowl seal.


The bottom of the bowl has a locator detent to line up with the base locater pin.


Put the clamp on before putting the bowl on. It will save you from lifting the bowl on and off twice.


Before tightening up the band clamp, check the bowl seal area to see that the bowl is centered over the ball. You can see an even black line around the ball when the bowl is centered.


The bowl clamp has the “front” word on one end, the front ends of the toilet locking ring two halves touch each other at the front center of the toilet base. There is a gap at the back of the toilet.




I put silicone grease on the water valve plunger shaft and installed the water valve. The plunger worked hard, and this made it work easier to compress.




While you have the toilet off, check the vacuum breaker for any cracks in the plastic valve.


Next up, install the toilet back in the camper.

Start with changing the cone washer in the PEX fitting. Please do not reuse the old one. It is a leak waiting to happen with being too old and disturbed. Pick out the old washer, clean up the brass fitting with steel wool to remove some of the hard water deposits, and install the new cone washer. I buy these cone washers in a pack of 10.






Then the floor flange gasket. Here is the old next to the new one.


Bottom side. New on the left.


Topside. New on the left.


On the new gasket, you have to poke through the floor flange holding bolt holes. The gasket is made for 2 or 4 bolt holes as needed. The top of the gasket is marked with “This side up”. The lip around the perimeter is on the bottom and goes down.


Then place the toilet over the floor flange, line up all the holes with a punch/drift, put the nuts and flat washers back on the lower toilet base flange, and the two rear lag screws into the floor. Hook up the water line and put the pedal cover on and you are done. Check for water leaks upon startup.


Some links that may be helpful on the rebuild.

The 110 parts list. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...o=file&id=5634

The 210 parts list https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...o=file&id=5635

The 110 & 210 owners manual https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...o=file&id=5636

A newer version of the 210 owners manual https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...o=file&id=5587


Linked below are two places I have bought new spare parts for the toilets with positive outcomes. Boat & RV Accessories in Dayton,Ohio https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/ and Dyers RV in Phoenix, AZ https://dyersonline.com/ Prices change often between them, and I shop both. Some have free freight so check the total cost. While Amazon also has some of these, you need to watch as some sellers offer clones of the real parts. I cannot speak to the clone quality.

Dometic 385311462 Toilet Seal Kit
https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...385311462-seal

https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-...and-newer.html

Dometic 385310683 Sealand Spring Cartridge Kit
https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...-385310683-kit

https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-...ridge-kit.html

Dometic/SeaLand 385310954 Ball & Shaft Kit With Spring Cartridge
https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...-kit-385310954

https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-...ridge-kit.html

Dometic Sealand 385311267 Floor Flange Seal
https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com...or-flange-seal

https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-...ange-seal.html

Flair-It 1/2" Saniprene Swivel Seals. 16425 for the pack of 10. 06425 for 1 cone
https://www.dyersonline.com/flair-it...vel-seals.html

Amazon use to sell the 10 pack for $0.90 as an add on item. That seems to be no longer. Now are a lot higher in cost
https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16435-P...1253096&sr=8-2

You can also buy the swivel cones direct from, Flair-it

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-09-2020, 06:52 AM   #3
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WOW! Such detailed instructions! Better than rebuild instructions. Reminds me of carburetor rebuilding when you said "Boing!" And searching for the screen. When I bought my 2004 t2553 in June, the bowl wouldn't retain water above the ball. The 210 didn't need a rebuild. Just cleaning of the ball. Found a ball cleaning kit in the vanity! But that was after.
Thanks for the detailed instructions! I'll be selling my TT very soon and did lots of work and cleaning. It had a new roof, tires, and awning installed 2 years ago. Old 30# propane tanks. Where to get re-certified? Spare tire never used but cracked- I'll replace it next week. Have fun. Stay safe, SamG.
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Old 10-09-2020, 07:29 AM   #4
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Sam,
Suburban Propane in my area recertifies propane tanks. Last time I checked it was like $7.00 pass or fail.

Roger
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Old 10-09-2020, 07:47 AM   #5
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Roger; Thanks for the suggestion. Tried calling all propane companies in the area 3 weeks ago. About a waste of time. Most reps I talked to didn't know about certification or passed the buck. Just tried calling 2 locations with Suburban. Same phone number. Verizon bought Tracfone, my provider and I received a Message, "Welcome to Verizon. Your call can not be completed as dialed." The dumb thing is that during the 1970s I worked in a propane plant. Delivery, filling, replacing valves on tanks up to 100 gallons, maintaining, and helping on appliance and tank installs. But this company was sold and the present reps knew nothing about re-certification. Covid sure did a number on everything! SamG.
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Old 10-09-2020, 10:21 AM   #6
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Sam your welcome. I called and got a number for your area for suburban propane. 610-929-4729 just call and ask if they do any refurbishing.

Hope this helps.

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Old 10-10-2020, 09:30 AM   #7
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Roger; Thanks I'll try that number if Verizon lets me make calls! (Bought a Moto phone with a year's service from TRACFONE). And yes I don't make many calls. Stay safe, SamG.
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Old 10-11-2020, 04:01 AM   #8
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Very nice John. That will be useful to many in the future.
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Old 10-11-2020, 10:14 PM   #9
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Thanks all for the good comments. Much appreciated.

On recertifying LP tanks, fortunately we have a local propane company just down (Schilling Propane) the road who will re-certify our LP tanks. I think is is about $4 a tank if I recall correctly the last time I went which was last year. That said, none of the garden shop, TSC, or other large stores that fill the tanks as a sideline, have no idea how to get the tanks re-certified.

John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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