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Old 05-20-2021, 02:22 PM   #1
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Restoring a 2006 Solaris T-2753

Recently became one of the owners of a 2006 Solaris model T-2753

We have plans of redoing many aesthetic, and some layout, changes of this trailer.

Unfortunately upon further inspection I have found water damage.

Damage in the form of a soft spot under the front right window, and the ceiling in the back.

Pictures to follow upon a more thorough inspection.

My first question is:

Where do I start? I am thinking to tackle the back roof, and see how far the damage travels.

Do I do anything to the inside? Or are all the repairs typically made from the outside?

Thanks
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Old 05-20-2021, 05:24 PM   #2
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Hi ChipEdog,

Good for you for asking before you start in taking the camper apart.

Yes, I recommend you work on repairing the water damage from the outside trying to leave the inside totally intact or as intact as it can be. You can fix damaged wall or ceiling board from the outside as long at it is not ~ 80 to 100% deteriorated. And even then, still take the camper apart from the outside. You will do less damage to the inside and less work this way.

Here are a few posts to help show how the camper comes apart. And how to use a moisture meter to determine where the water damage is, "before" taking the camper apart.

This post will help on the moisture meter.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...per-17613.html

This file download link can help show how the moisture gets into the camper, spreads and how to use the scale on the meter.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/d...o=file&id=5638

This post will help on a more step by step front wall repair removal. I never made it to finishing that post, but what is there can be helpful.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...2-a-18706.html

This is an active full restoration project, I am about a month behind on posting the progress, but there a lot in there with pics which can help on how to take it apart, and put it back together.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...avy-17684.html

And here is some help on restoring wall and ceiling board from the outside.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post155357

Looking forward to seeing your restoration work. Good luck and ask away on the questions. Pics really help show us what you are up against.

John
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Old 05-20-2021, 06:39 PM   #3
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Wow John, thank you! That’s an incredible amount of information, and all layed out and nicely. Appreciate that all so much!

I will probably get around to asking pictures and starting some of the work this weekend.
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Old 05-21-2021, 08:01 AM   #4
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How would I figure out what type of membrane is currently on my trailer?

And, how do I know if it is reusable or will have to be replaced?

I definitely will have to lift some of it, as the roof has some areas that are completely soft
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Old 05-21-2021, 08:26 AM   #5
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A 2006 Sunline has Dicor EPDM rubber roof membrane. Sunline glued the membrane to a heavy corrugate liner (unicore I believe) they nick named bud board.

The soft spot that feels like a tire tube, rubber band feeling, most likely had a leak and the water deteriorated the budboard and left the only the rubber which is like a rubber band feeling.

All the links I sent you have rubber roofs. And heads up, you cannot walk on that roof directly. Use small manageable size piece of 3/8" or thicker plywood in about 24 x 48" wide to span the 16" on center rafters. You have to have 2 rafters covered, 3 is better if it works. Put down a tarp etc to protect from abrasion.

Like this




Take care getting on and off with a good stable ladder. Be careful for rotted rafters.

Try and save the roof when you remove it unless you are convinced you are doing and entire re-roof. You can repair just a corner to rear section. Take off all the moldings and vents in the area, take out the staples on the perimeter or around vent openings and the membrane will lift right off with no damage. A heat gun and metal scraper is your friend to get the caulk off the screws. Gently warm the caulk to not melt it or damage the rubber. Keep wafting the heat gun to not burn.

Hope this helps

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Old 05-21-2021, 08:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChipEdog View Post

And, how do I know if it is reusable or will have to be replaced?
Need pics of what you have to help better. The age of your roof pending how well it was care for is part of this too.

Pending how long you want to keep the camper, how much you want to spend and how bad the roof condition is now all over are part of the decision to do a total reroof or do a spot location repair. I have repaired some ugly looking roofs and brought them back to life on spot repairs. It comes with trade offs, to repair or replace. Also have done several re-roofs but those campers were wanted to be kept a long time.

There are also coatings which can be used once on the original membrane "after" all the water damage is fixed that have 50 year or lifetime warranties. But coatings is a topic in itself as there are lots of coatings, some good, some not. And the prices range all over. Lets talk before you do a coating.
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Old 05-22-2021, 10:18 AM   #7
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Here are some pictures of the areas with clear water damage.

Under the front window by the entrance, then the back where the bed is: far back ceiling, and side walls.

Worse than I had originally thought
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Old 05-22-2021, 09:42 PM   #8
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Hi Chip,

Yes, you have water damage and it has been ongoing for many years. Roof pics showing the caulking and the rubber condition tell a story too. And doing an inspection of the screws at the bottom of the front wall and rear wall. They are at the very bottom across the entire wall. If the heads are rusted, that area took a good deal of water somewhere in it's life. If the screw head is all white, removing the screw and looking at the threads tells a story too. Pristine silver thread is no moisture. Rust in any form on the thread ranges from very light to total goo. Those screws are rusting from the inside out. Wet wood sets up a corrosion reaction and rusts the screw at the threads first, then the rusting action keeps going until the head has visible rust on the outside.

The rear bedroom had a leak and we can see a prior owner tried to deal with it from the inside taking down the ceiling board and did the patch we see.

The good part of all this, these Sunlines are totally rebuildable with common wood tools, time and the want to do a restore.

You can make that camper great again, it will take time, but it will be a really nice camper when you are done.

Thanks for sharing the pics.

John
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Old 05-26-2021, 04:39 AM   #9
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Going to try to get a new tire mounted on the existing rim. It blew on the way here (was delivered) and they switched out the spare they had to buy on the way.

Also,

Since I do not have a garage large enough to fit my trailer, is covering with a tarp the thing to do for when I start the repairs from the exterior?
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Old 05-26-2021, 10:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChipEdog View Post
Going to try to get a new tire mounted on the existing rim. It blew on the way here (was delivered) and they switched out the spare they had to buy on the way.

Also,

Since I do not have a garage large enough to fit my trailer, is covering with a tarp the thing to do for when I start the repairs from the exterior?
Bummer on the tire failure. Tires and campers is an education and a post in itself.

Yes, if you have no building, the big tarp is your friend. For roof work, if you have the roof off, and just the rafters exposed, suggest putting a piece of any thickness plywood up there on the rafters, under the tarp. If not and the trap is just over the rafters, the day heavy rains come the tarp will fall down between the rafters from the water weight and make a mess with ponding water. The plywood or any kind of support under the tarp helps shed the water and not let the tarp sink.

We just had a member have that sinking tarp issue happen. Figured I would pass along the fix to you before it happens.

I have used the tarp before the new barn came, make sure it is wrapped tight and solid so the wind does not flap it or blow it out into parts unknown...

And we have other members who tarped during the repair issues too. It is the go to lower cost method.

John
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Old 05-31-2021, 09:01 AM   #11
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So I’m on to the tires and wheels....very confused lol.

It seems as though two of my wheels are actually different than the other two. Is this an issue? I believe them to be the same size, but two are silver and two are white.

As far as the tires go...It seems Goodyear and maxxis are recommended?
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Old 05-31-2021, 09:02 AM   #12
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Pictures for reference
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChipEdog View Post
So Iím on to the tires and wheels....very confused lol.

It seems as though two of my wheels are actually different than the other two. Is this an issue? I believe them to be the same size, but two are silver and two are white.

As far as the tires go...It seems Goodyear and maxxis are recommended?
Hi Chip,

When you say "wheels" are different, and you are asking if the "wheels" are different being an issue, lets define "wheel". If you are talking about the metal wheel, the tire rim, the color is not an issue. And it appears the lug pattern and the bolt circle is not a problem as they appear to fit the brake drum.

The width of where the tire mounts should be the same and the weight rating needs to meet the full needs of the tire.

Sometimes, the rim is stamped on the outside area of rim where the spokes mount too. It is stamped with the size of the rim, and the rim width.

If you cannot find any stamps, then try and measure the rim width where the tire mounts.

Here is a PDF from Dexstar Wheels. Dexstar Wheel - Trailer Rims and Wheels Sunline used them on some of the campers and I knew where to find the info on them. They also used other brands too.

Here is the PDF with wheel sizes. http://www.dexstarwheel.com/products.pdf

The 8 spoked rim can be in 15" which is your tire size,

15x5JJ rim size rated at 1,820 # at 50psi, 5 lug on 4.5" bolt circle. A 5" wide rim.

15x6JJ rim size rated at 2,50# at 75psi, 5 lug on 4.5" bolt circle. a 6" wide rim.

By odd chance if the silver ones are the 6" wide and the white ones the 5" wide, that could be a problem. The 6" wide is made I do believe for the ST 225/75R15 tire which is much larger size and rated tire in the 15" tire size.

Your tires, the ST205/75R15 load range C's are mounted on the 15x5JJ rim by Sunline. Odds may be, the white ones are original and the silver ones have been changed along the way.

Tire age is a big deal when we are talking about trailer tires and ST trailer tires. There are DOT 4 digit date codes on the tires. Trailer tires often age out before they ever have tread wear out unless you are doing a lot of cross country towing. 5 years is a common recommendation when it is time to change them, 5 towing seasons assuming the tires where made the year they start the 1st towing season. The rubber breaks down just from age. If you need help on reading the dates codes, ask for help on that.

Odds are someone had a tire failure on the sliver wheel side, and when one tire goes, the one next to it can go in a short amount of time as it is into mega overload when the first tire died. The prior owner may have just bought new mounted tires and wheels for a low cost.

As to tire brands, the two brands you listed, being the Endurance in the Goodyear and the Maxxis M8008 are on my list as well as this 3rd tire. The Carlisle Radial Trail HD https://www.carlislebrandtires.com/o...dial-trail-hd/

Tire brands get personal get what you trust from a dealer you trust. The bottom line, trailer tires need to be air up to max cold side wall pressure at the start of the day, every day and not overloaded. New thinking is they need 20% excess capacity to hold up in tandem and triple axle settings during the stress from turning. It is called interply shear. Tire are a topic all on their own.


Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-02-2021, 03:03 PM   #14
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So it seems the tires on the silver rims are newer, if I am reading the dot code correctly, these pictured are 2019 and the others are 05 (forgot to snap a pic).

Thats all fine, I’m more worried about the possible size difference. The rims are very hard to measure, especially while on the trailer...but it kinda seems like you were right on mentioning the silver rims being 6” and the white rims 5”

Might’ve bought a trailer that’ll teach me more than I ever need to know ��

Also looking into the axels...at first glance (and from upside down) they seems a bit bent. Going to research that a bit myself

Edit: hopefully My google search was correct in telling me most trailer axels have an arch
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChipEdog View Post
So it seems the tires on the silver rims are newer, if I am reading the dot code correctly, these pictured are 2019 and the others are 05 (forgot to snap a pic).
Those 05 tires are on borrowed time. Do not be towing with them once you get the camper repaired. A tire blowout can do big time damage beating up a camper. As was stated, tire tread does not dictate when trailer tires need to be changed. If the other side had dates of 2019, well odds are high, the failed tires where from 2005 and had lots of tread on them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChipEdog View Post
Thats all fine, Iím more worried about the possible size difference. The rims are very hard to measure, especially while on the trailer...but it kinda seems like you were right on mentioning the silver rims being 6Ē and the white rims 5Ē

Mightíve bought a trailer thatíll teach me more than I ever need to know ��
You are looking for a 1" difference. If you have a sliding beam clamp, I have snuck them through the spokes before. In this case I was measuring camber at the wheel, but you could use the clamp as a gage, slide it to the edge of the rim and mark the clamp. Take it off and go to the other side and compare where the clamp marks are. A 1" difference should jump out.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ChipEdog View Post
Also looking into the axels...at first glance (and from upside down) they seems a bit bent. Going to research that a bit myself

Edit: hopefully My google search was correct in telling me most trailer axels have an arch
Well, axles do get bent when mega pot holes get hit, or high curbs. But axles are also bent to add positive camber at the wheel. Where are you seeing the bend?

The axle is bent at the center to create positive camper at the wheel. If the axle goes straight across under load, you are close to overloading the axle. If the axle bends below straight, you are into negative camber and you have overloaded the axle.

Don't mind the well broken in work boots. Those boots were made for walking! (OK that song may be dating me...) Nancy Sinatra would be proud!





If you want to learn about trailer axle alignment and how tires can burn up going down the road due to messed up wheel alignment, see this post and the link to the tire wear investigation. Yes, one can align a trailer in spec in your own yard with some ingenuity and a bunch of learning along the way.

It's all in understanding what you need to end up with. Sadly, brand new campers leave RV factories with messed up wheel alignment often.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...ics-10043.html

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 06-04-2021, 04:48 AM   #16
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Can’t thank you enough for all the information, and advice.

Plan is to jack up the trailer, put it on stands and cribbing, and take one of each wheel to a tire shop.

Would rather let them help me than to guess at it.

I like your ingenuity, but I’m not confident enough to figure out the rim width myself. Part of me wants to just get 4 new wheels, but I don’t want to spend money unnecessarily.

Would it make more sense to swap the wheels, so that each axel is holding the same rim type? That’s what my intuition is.

Also, when lifting to remove the tire, should I put the leveling jacks down for more stability (NOT actually lifting this way).

Or if I have one wheel off each side of the trailer, are there any extra precautions I should take?
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Old 06-04-2021, 09:57 PM   #17
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Canít thank you enough for all the information, and advice.

Would it make more sense to swap the wheels, so that each axel is holding the same rim type? Thatís what my intuition is.
I'm not sure using a 6" rim on a that ST205/75R15 tire is an OK thing to do. I myself do not know. The tire spec wants a 5.5" wide rim but all the Sunlines are mounted on 5" as getting a 5.5" rim is an issue.

Going to 6", I am not sure the side walls are supported OK or not. Tireman9 here on the forum would have a better opinion if 6" will not create some other issue. Here is one of his posts. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...ail-19223.html You can ask him.

This is his blog too https://www.rvtiresafety.net/

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChipEdog View Post
Also, when lifting to remove the tire, should I put the leveling jacks down for more stability (NOT actually lifting this way).

Or if I have one wheel off each side of the trailer, are there any extra precautions I should take?
You can put the leveling jacks down, it will not hurt, but they will not support the camper, do not use them to hold the camper.

There is a caution on removing a wheel with the camper on jack stands and the tires off the ground. Shackle flop as it is called. The suspension can shift and the axle comes down, hard, until the shackle flops runs out of distance. "Before" the wheel is off, put cribbing, wood etc under the axle seat by the U bolts. It does not have to lift the axle, just stop it from coming down any further. The blocking does not have to touch, it can if your wood workes out that way. Only leave a space about 1/8" space from touching. If the axle shifts and the the shackles starts to pivot, it can only go down until it touches the block. Do this under both wheels on the same side that the tires are off the ground.

Also, make sure you jack on the frame behind the rear axle and central to the I beam shape frame rail. Do not jack on the edge of the I beam, and make sure the jack stand or cribbing is flat across the entire width of the I beam flange. Those I beam frame rails are really thin, and warping the bottom flange, can set up a frame strength issue later on.

If this is not clear enough, just ask, I'll explain more and show pics. Out of time right now.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-06-2021, 12:38 PM   #18
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Update:

Cleaned out a bunch of things and undesirable features (window skirts, brackets previous owner installed) on the inside of the trailer. As we plan on a big makeover.

It smells pretty bad- I believe itís the blank tank or the previous owners dogís habits.

So weíre figuring out the wheels, to be able to take it out to clean out, to be able to start work on the roof/water damage.

Got a jack and some stands and started to try and jack the trailer up. I was using a 2.25 ton floor jack, and did not like this process at all. The way the floor jack works, it was starting to slip off center of the beam and it made me extremely anxious. The loud pop was pretty scary. As well the jack was very very hard to pump. I expected some resistance, but it was very nerve wracking. I did manage to get the jack stand under the frame to hold it up, but not enough to get the wheel off.

So I ended up getting a 12 ton bottle jack today. This process was 1000x smoother. I could line the jack up exactly where I wanted it, and then let it pump straight up. The jack lifted the trailer effortlessly, without any uncomfortable shifting or noises. I was able to get the jack stands under the frame, and got the wheel off.

Well bad news but somehow JohnB knew the replacement rims were in fact 6Ē (check the stamp).

So now Iím at a crossroads of what to do-

My options seem to be:
A) use the 6Ē wide rims on the rear axel, get two new tires for the front stock 5Ē rims.
B) replace two the two 6Ē rims with stock 5Ē if I can find them. And then get 4 new tires.

Either way Iím going to attempt to repack the bearings and inspect the brakes.

Gonna try to edit the pictures into this post.
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Old 06-06-2021, 03:03 PM   #19
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Tires

Saw your post on the thread "Why Do tires fail". Your questions are not specific about failure but proper application.


1. Wheels. Not sure but I believe the white wheel is steel. Can you confirm the Silver wheel is just painted different and is not aluminum?


2. Tire info is very important whenever asking about tires & inflation. It is best to include the Complete size This means all the letters and numbers. Yours appear to be ST205/75R15 C


3. Wheel size. Your tires are designed (measured) on a 5.5J but any rim from 5J to a 7J is acceptable for use


4. Minor item. The correct terminology for your trailer is "Tandem Axle". The term "dual" usually is reserved for when 2 tires are mounted side by side on the end of an axle as seen on most heavy trucks and the rear of ost motorhomes.


5 two different rim widths: I don't see any problem but in some comments in this thread there is mention of different wheel load capacity. Just be sure you are not exceeding the wheel rating. Since you have a big project going. I would keep tires & wheels to toward the end.


6. I do STRONGLY recommend that everyone get, program and use a TPMS. I personally prefer TireTraker brand because of ease of programing the Low Pressure warning, the different levels of air loss warnings and the Lifetime warranty. BUT ANY TPMS is better than none.


Hope this answers all of your current questions.
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Old 06-06-2021, 10:05 PM   #20
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...
1. Wheels. Not sure but I believe the white wheel is steel. Can you confirm the Silver wheel is just painted different and is not aluminum?

1. Wheels. Not sure but I believe the white wheel is steel. Can you confirm the Silver wheel is just painted different and is not aluminum?Ē

I believe the white wheel to be steel, but cannot confirm the silver is painted at all.

It may in fact be aluminum, Iíll take a magnet to the wheels tomorrow.

Sounds like decent news for me then, unless the steel / aluminum thing is a problem? I assume that would have more to do with load capacity?
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