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Old 05-03-2022, 08:59 AM   #1
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Replacing roof

Hi there,

Has anyone ever fully replaced the roof on a sublime camper? My T-2100 is leaking and I知 considering removing the roof and redoing it. Any tips ?
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Old 05-03-2022, 08:30 PM   #2
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Hi mitchbt,

What year is your T2100 and do you know if it is a metal roof (corrugated aluminum sheets seemed togther) or is it a rubber all one piece membrane?

And yes, we have several folks who have done total roof replacements, I myself have done several. I have lots to share with pics, but it helps to know which vintage roof you have to help better.

Can you post any pics of what you have and the condition?

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-03-2022, 08:30 PM   #3
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If you need help posting pics, here are the basics.

There are 3 ways to add pics.

1. Upload pics to a specific post attaching them at the end of the post.

2. Linking them in from a public viewable web photo hosting service you have.

See here for 1 and 2 https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post86041

3. You can upload pics to the forum in your own personal photo album. Then link them to anywhere in the text of a post. See here on how to create an album. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post87945

If you still get stuck, let us know. Pic's go a long way in helping show things you are working on, and we really like seeing Sunline pics!

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-04-2022, 07:35 AM   #4
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Hi John,

thanks for the quick reply. It's a 1983 T-2100 with an aluminum roof. Previous owner added some tar. After a 900 mile drive (frame must have shaken around), it started leaking a bit. I want to keep it for another 10+ years so I figure I'll invest in a proper roof.

I build surfboards therefore I am very familiar with fiberglass & resin. I was considering adding a thin layer of plywood to cover the old roofing, and then a layer of fiberglass on the wood. Probably easier than peeling off the aluminum. ?

Here is a photo of the roof
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Old 05-04-2022, 07:37 AM   #5
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I am not sure if that photo link worked . here it is again

https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/m...cture7199.jpeg
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Old 05-07-2022, 06:41 AM   #6
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Hi Mitch,

Your pic link worked to your Sunline club photo album. You can also have it view here in your post if you like, like this.



To do that, however you created your link, (there are a few ways) as long as the pic address ends in dot jpeg, then use the postage stamp/mountain icon on the top of the reply header, then copy and paste in the link. The software will add the correct IMG commands at both ends of the link and it will view in the post.

That tar is "on there". Oh boy, that is an issue to get off. The issue with the tar is the ability to deal with all the flexing and not crack or split. And getting it up, a heat gun and scraper followed by maybe mineral sprits might touch it. But maybe not.

If you have a leak, we should talk more about this, as in a camper that old, when you see the leak in the living space, odds are high the leak has been ongoing a lot longer then one thinks. Years worth. There never seems to "only" be one leak in a camper, there are many ways leaks happen and the roof is only one way they leak. Every penetration in the siding is a leak potential and can do as bad and sometimes worse then a roof leak.

You said you wanted to keep the camper for 10 more years, and you said this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchbt View Post
I build surfboards therefore I am very familiar with fiberglass & resin. I was considering adding a thin layer of plywood to cover the old roofing, and then a layer of fiberglass on the wood. Probably easier than peeling off the aluminum.
Trying to do a plywood overlay onto of the old roof, then seal it, from all I know, I have pre-convinced notions this will not last 10 years. I can go into all the reasons, but if you have rafter and outer perimeter wood rot now, they will never stop once it was active and wet. Even if it dries out, it will turn into dry rot and dust over time. And trying to bond in a new plywood roof is most anything, does not address the underlying wood issues or how to create a seal to the main camper to hold on 10 more years of towing.

When you peel off the aluminum you can address the rot and then install new plywood, (there may never have been any before, these are not walk on roofs without support) you then have a good foundation to create a long term roof. But heads up, all that water that came in the roof, and other areas below the roof, went "down". It went down inside the wall cavity and into the floor system. It is highly likely you will find water damage in the walls and or floor even if you do not see it now in the living space.

If you are handy with basic wood tools, have a lot of time, and a some funding, you can rebuild the damage and create a long lasting camper.

These two posts are a start at what a re-roof looks like. They also had total restores to them but you can see what you could get into. These are both EPDM rubber roofs, but the way the camper is built and leaks is very similar.

https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...avy-16834.html

https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...avy-17684.html

If you are looking for a quick fix, it will not address any of the rot issues and it will mostly likely not last 10 years, there are a few coatings that may work, but "only" after you do a bonding test on both the tar and the aluminum. More on this if you are interested.

There is also a way to inspect the camper with a moisture meter to see how good or bad the water damage may be in the walls, ceiling and floor to help guide you on what to do or what you may be in for. This link is a start on using the moisture meter
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...per-17613.html

Hope this helps and feel free to ask any an all questions. We are here to help anyone wanting to help themselves.

John
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Old 05-07-2022, 09:54 AM   #7
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Hi John
Thanks again for the helpful info. I worked on the camper for a month in rainy conditions and it did not leak once. But after the 900 mile drive to Nova Scotia, a bit of water got in on the first rainy day. I’m thinking the drive shook up the frame and maybe things shifted? Does this make sense?


The camper will remain parked in the same place for the remainder of its life, so there will be no more drives. I don’t have much time or money to invest so I am looking for a quick fix , if it lasts another 5 years I’ll be happy.

Maybe I will peel back the aluminum and make an assessment from there? I could always layer the plywood and fibreglass over the frame. How hard is it to peel off the existing aluminum roof? I definitely want to steer clear of cleaning up that tar.

Thanks again
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Old 05-10-2022, 10:31 PM   #8
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Hi Mitch,

Some comments to your questions,

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchbt View Post
Hi John
Thanks again for the helpful info. I worked on the camper for a month in rainy conditions and it did not leak once. But after the 900 mile drive to Nova Scotia, a bit of water got in on the first rainy day. I’m thinking the drive shook up the frame and maybe things shifted? Does this make sense?
I know this may seem like it can't be, but I can attest it is true, I can explain how if needed. Campers can leak from the siding and the roof even if standing still. And you will not see any signs of water inside the living space. It can seep into the wall cavity and into the roof, it drips down, inside the walls and keeps going down until it hits the floor and then under the floor and maybe drip out or pond under the floor festers and rots wood where ever water is ponding. By the time the water shows up in the living space, a lot to time, years may have gone by as they are seeper leaks.

The siding is sealed using putty tape at all the places screws are used. Any hole in the siding is a leak potential. As the putty tape ages, it shrinks and will separate from the siding, the molding or split in the middle. Over time the split grows until it can allow water to seep/drip into the wall cavity. Roof leaks seep/drip there way into the wall cavity too. All this can be going on and you not realize it as you cannot see it inside. A camper is not build like a house that has much better wall siding and roof system. If you have a house roof leak, many times you see a water stain in the dry wall on the ceiling, not so much in a camper until the leak gets real big or have rotted through enough it drips into the living space.

And yes, campers flex a lot towing down the road. They flex in about all directions, this puts stress on all the siding and roof joints/putty tape. The older the camper gets, the worse it gets. So yes, towing can affect water seeping into the walls, while standing still and especially towing in the rain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchbt View Post
The camper will remain parked in the same place for the remainder of its life, so there will be no more drives. I don’t have much time or money to invest so I am looking for a quick fix , if it lasts another 5 years I’ll be happy.

Maybe I will peel back the aluminum and make an assessment from there? I could always layer the plywood and fibreglass over the frame. How hard is it to peel off the existing aluminum roof? I definitely want to steer clear of cleaning up that tar.
OK, understand. I'm just cautioning on the water damage as you are going to have to spend some level of time and funds to get the camper to stay dry for 5 years.

Since the camper is going to stay in one place, you have a few options to seal up active leaks and help prevent new ones.

Both of these options must have the joints and surfaces to be treated totally cleaned. No dirt or mold and the products will not bond. I can't stress this enough, the new sealants will not bond to dirt or mold.

The siding, every joint or hole in the siding needs to sealed up (windows, doors, corner molding, power cord holes, furnace opening etc. I suggest Proflex RV or Standard Proflex by Geocel since the camper is not being. towed. Both of those products come in different colors. Basically you are caulking the camper siding leak tight. You could use 10 tubes of caulk on the whole camper. See this post on how to put the Proflex on, this is using Dicor non lap sealant but the Proflex will work the same with a soapy wet finger. Do not apply in high sun or hot siding. Smooth out short sections, 2 to 3 ft long max, then put more on. Use a small bead to not over apply.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post137746

The roof, peeling back the skin is a job and then some. The roof metal is seamed to the front and rear wall. You either take the siding off or you cut it off if you are doing a roof replacement and not using the metal. And the front and rear wall siding comes off from the bottom up, not the top down. You seemed to indicate you did not have a lot of time, that is time consuming removing and rebuilding.

I have an option that will allow you not remove the roof or the tar. I really would not do this, I would rebuild any water damage first, but you want the cheapest way to and less time. So here goes.

Look into these two roof coatings. They are rated for metal and even going over asphalt. I have used the Henry, I have not used the GaCo.

On the Henry, you used 885 over the roof seams and hole penetrations to build up the coating over the screws/seams first https://henry.com/retail/repair-seal...r-roof-sealant

Then the open areas you use the 887, 2 coats https://henry.com/retail/white-roof-...e-roof-coating

The Gaco is here,

For the seams you use the liquid tape https://gaco.com/product/liquidrooftape/

Then the open areas you use the coating
https://gaco.com/product/gacoroof/

The Henry you can buy at Home Depot, the Gaco you need to find a commercial roof supply house, they have a locator for your area on the web site.

Both roof products have to have the camper very clean and no residue on the surface. Doing a peel test on the tar is a good idea. More on how to do this peel test if you pick the coating option.

I will caution on this, you are sealing in an old leaks by not checking where leaks might be in the walls/ceiling. The insulation is fiberglass batt and is a sponge. It may dry out in time if you stop the leak, but dry rot may also come behind it.

There are other cheaper roof coatings, not sure they are rated for the tar like the two above are. The cost of the coating is well, nuts right now. It doubled since last summer, something in the supply chain has gotten to this paints and coating market.

Hope this helps

John
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