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Old 07-16-2009, 08:49 AM   #1
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Removing the sofa and raising it up

Due to a bow in the floor of my large slideout, anyone who sleeps on the pullout sofa will be sleeping with their head slightly lower than their feet. Or I should say, I assume this to be the cause, though it does not make much sense to me.

In any case, I need to raise up the sofa maybe 3/4" so that the bed is level when the trailer is level. The sofa is attached to the floor with four screws, one at each 'L" bracket. The screws appear to be small square drive.

The back screws...

And the front screws...

There are also "feet" on the front of the sofa which appear decorative but probably also for support...

So the question is, those screws that go into the floor, does anyone know how long they are? And since they go into the slideout floor, which is only maybe 3/4" OSB (assuming it's OSB, cause Sunline LOVED OSB!), if I add "blocks" under each "L" bracket, I'll need longer screws, but the length must be exact so they do are long enough to secure it, but not so long that they go through the bottom of the slide, thus catching when the slide extends/retracts???

My initial thought was, just screw the riser blocks up into the L-brackets and let the couch free-stand. But I think the pullout mechanism will be hard to operate without the sofa anchored down, due to the leverage and force of the springs when opening.

Any thoughts?

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Old 07-16-2009, 11:15 PM   #2
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3 options you can pick and choose from to maybe spark an idea.

1. The rear bracket looks like you can take the lag screws out of the wood part of the couch, lift the end up, maybe have to drill a new hole in the steel L bracket and bolt back on. The front I canít tell from your pic if the L bracket is bolted to wood or riveted to the steel frame? May or may not be able to lift life in the back.

2. The one end to be lifted, take a long strip of 3/4ď thick board and run front to back and then screw the couch to it like a long foot runner. Do not attach to the floor. A variation is do this on both ends for a complete sliding away couch/bed. Use a sanded 2 x 4 or 2 x 3 stained and varnished as needed on one end, then the other end a 2 x 4 or 2 x 3 plus a 3/4 board. Couch screws to the board and no longer to the floor. Can slide the couch where ever you want now.

3. Dealing with the screws going thru the floor and messing up down below. That floor may only be 1/2Ē thick, maybe 5/8 or 3/4Ē donít know. Would not want to go thru it. Unscrew the screw now and measure the over all length. Then get a new screw, will most likely be longer but grind off the starter end of it to only be 3/4 ď exactly longer and then the original and screw back in with a 3/4Ē shim board under it. Then you know it is not going any deeper then before. The hole in the floor should be wood taped from the orignal screw as you no longer have a starter tip screw.

Hope this sparks some thoughts


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Old 07-16-2009, 11:29 PM   #3
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John brings up a good point about the floor not being very thick, so you would have a hard time putting screws down. However...

I think the reason for your floor bowing is there's no support like most of us have.

The standard booth dinette frames go the whole depth of the slide and are screwed into the floor like every 6" or so.

I also have a L-shaped thing on each side of my standard couch that it sits on and mounts to. It's made out of 2x4's and are also covered in carpet. All this stuff is attached to the walls/floor to give it rigidity. From the pics it doesn't look like you have any kind of support like this. It seems like something that goes through would be beneficial.

I'm thinking this: Put the slide out, and get some sort of 2x4 or 4x4 to jack up with from the outside. Jack the slide floor up until it's level inside. Then remove the couch and attach a 2x4 under the couch mount with 1 1/4" screws (don't sink them too much). If you do them like every 3-4", then I think they'd hold enough without going through.

Maybe John could give his opinion before you went through with anything.
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Old 07-17-2009, 06:00 AM   #4
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If you could post pics of the entire slide area maybe some here could come up with some ideas as to possibly adding support to the floor.leveling the sofa out is a great idea but is the floor going to keep sagging(I would bet it will)this would be my concern.there was a member some time ago on here that had a booth dinette and wanted to remove it and I cautioned against it due to that exact reason of the floor sagging.So possibly a partition could be put next to the sofa to help support your floor similar to the partition like us folks with the booth dinnette have.My slide floor seperated from my dinnette so I put angle iron brackets in all the corners under my dinnette to reinforce it and now my floor is solid and I also keep a wedge under my slide floor to relieve the pressure from bouncing while traveling and so we can step on the floor while the slide is in.
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:50 AM   #5
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John, Jon, and Rich,

Thanks for your thoughts. Up to this point my only thought was really just to raise the couch and re-screw back into the floor. Now, I'm thinking more along the lines of fixing the underlying problem, which may be enough to fix the couch bed problem at the same time.

I'd love to strengthen the floor as part of this exercise. One thing I noticed the other day when the slide was IN, was the the floor was NOT bowed. Probably due to the carpeted floor underneath providing support.

I like the idea of runners screwed into the floor to reinforce. I'm not sure how the screws would hold though, especially if the floor is OSB as I suspect. Can anyone confirm this?

One other idea that just came to mind along these lines... I could cut out a rectangle in the carpet for each runner (to expose the bare wood, then use construction adhesive AND screws to attach to the floor (of course, only once it's level by lifting with a support from underneath. Then once everthing has set, the floor should not be permitted to sag as it once did...
Jeff, Laurie, + kids
Three time former Sunline owner
2011 Big Horn 3670RL Fifth Wheel
2012 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD D/A DRW, Classy Chassis Conversion, aka "Garage Queen II"
Hensley Trailersaver BD3 Air Hitch
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