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Old 06-25-2020, 12:28 PM   #1
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Refrigerator not working on Shore power

Hi i have a 1999 T-2553 Solaris, the beginning of the month we used the fridge (Dometic RM 2652) for extra storage of some food and it was working fine. Two days ago i noticed the fridge was not working at all on shore power, i tried all the breakers and checked all the fuses i could find, no luck. So i tried it on LP, it cooled off in no time at all. Any one have any ideas?

Scott
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Old 06-25-2020, 12:54 PM   #2
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Hi Scott. First , verify you have 120v power inside the camper. The simple way is to make sure the microwave or roof ac work. Some of the refrigerators are plugged into a ground fault outlet in the back, so make sure your GFCI outlets aren't popped. If your handy with a voltmeter or circuit tester, make sure the outlet behind the fridge has power. You can also check the 2 wires going to the heating element over the burner area and see if there is power there. I didn't look up your model fridge but some have a fuse under the control cover on the back side. My first suspicion , other than no power to the outlet, is a bad heating element. Pretty common.
Gary G
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Old 06-25-2020, 12:58 PM   #3
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thanks Gary, my brother and i were trying to check the various outlets in the back, i will check the others inside when i get home from work, thanks for the insight. we looked up the repair guide for this model and it kept coming back to the heating element. Is that a difficult fix?
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Old 06-25-2020, 01:09 PM   #4
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There is a 5 amp fuse in the control board under the black cover at bottom left back of fridge that is for the heating element
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Old 06-25-2020, 01:21 PM   #5
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thanks Dave i will recheck that one too. it looked ok, but this time i will actually test it.

Thanks for all your insight

Scott
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Old 06-26-2020, 06:11 AM   #6
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Changing the heating element is pretty easy if you have room. Remove the sheetmetal cover over the burner and the element slides out of a tube. How hard it is depends on if its rusted, and how much room to have to maneuver it. Sometimes you have to slide the fridge ahead a little to access it.
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Old 06-26-2020, 05:09 PM   #7
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Hi Scott,

Here are some pics to go with what Dave and Gary are talking about. I would add one more test "before" you pull apart the heating element. You can test the element in place to see if it burnt open, or if one side of the corroded & burnt to earth ground.

This RM2652 is a little newer than yours (2004 mfg date) but it should be close to yours.

There was a recall on these fridges and yours was in the recall. If yours has had the recall done, you will see this sheet metal cover over the burner area with a wiring diagram on it and a thermal disk switch pop riveted to the side of the burner tube behind the cover.


With the sheet metal shield off, the 2 red wires are going to the thermal disk switch. If your does not have the disk switch or the sheet metal, then the recall was never done. This is a free safety recall and still active, any Dometic repair place/dealer can do it for you. Just call and schedule.


Here is the PC board and the fuse Dave is talking about. The 2 black leeds under it are the electric element.


To test the element, shut down the 120 VAC and the 12 VDC power. Pull the 2 black wire plugs off the PC board. Using your ohm meter, test across the 2 wires. If there is no continuity at all, (meter will be OL if digital or no ohms if an analog meter.(the needle will not move) then the element is burnt open and it's toast.


The next test, is to check "each" black wire if it has some level of ohms/continuity to earth ground. Put the ohm meter on one black lead wire and then touch the the other meter probe to the green ground wires on near the PC board.Do both wires. Both should be an open circuit and no ohms or level of continuity to earth ground. If one of the wires has a level of ohms to ground, then the element burnt through to ground and may have affected the PC board when it did and the element is still toast. Hopefully it would pop the fuse first, but you don't know yet at this point.

A correct working element should be around 44 ohms +/- an ohm or so. If the ohms are very far off of the 44, let's talk about it as the wrong wattage elements did end up in some fridges and created problems. Assuming your element is bad, when you get the new one, you can test it before installing.

This pic is before the recall is done, but it shows the element Gary was talking about.

The element slides down into a sleeve. There are no real screws to hold it in, it may be corroded in though. Twist and wiggle it to break it free. You slide/push the new in one all the way to the bottom. If there is no room to get it out, then you will need to unhook the fridge and slide it forward in the cabinet. I have changed the elements, but the fridge was out of the camper when I did for other reasons.

Hope this helps and let us know how you make out.

John
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Old 07-02-2020, 03:17 PM   #8
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If it should turn out to be the Main board, don't get the OEM board. Get the Dinosaur Electronics board. Depending on what # is on your black box board, there are 3 different boards.



Dometic Model..........................Dinosaur board #

921144001 - 921144064............ Micro P-711

921144101 - 921144140............ 3850415.01

921144142 - 921144167............ 3850712.01

The most common one that I've seen on the 2652 are the 1st 2.
https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Dom_Chart.htm

https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Dom_boards.htm

These boards are availble online from most of the online RV Dealers, prices vary so shop around. I have a P-711 in my T2570 (my new spare) that I got with a broken box mount back in 2011. Dinosaur sent me another one and told me to keep the 1st one. The 2nd one went into my 94 Gulfstream's RM2611 and it fit perfectly and the fridge run a lot better without fault codes popping up weekly. When I got the T2570, I checked dinosaur and found the same board was in the RM2652, so the spare went in. I get +5*F in the freezer and +38*F in the cooler in 85*-90*F ambient temps on the back pad (direct sunlight). No shade, no fans. I still want to get an amish built coil unit, eventually, but it's running fine. A couple lbs of dry ice in the top shelf at beginning of trip helps keep temps below 34*F for a couple days. I've got a old Navy Corpsman preventive medicine fetish about food temps.
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