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Old 06-25-2022, 04:28 PM   #1
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2007 floor material

What size (thickness) floor material did Sunline use for their 2007 series 2499?

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Old 06-25-2022, 09:35 PM   #2
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Hi Bob,

Well, I have only measured ones that I have repaired, most with water damage, and the OSB floor swells and it's hard to tell what it started out as.

This much I can say, it is at least 1/2" for the original in the 07's. Meaning a real 1/2" not the 1/32 under 12 mm stuff now in the lumber yards. It might be 5/8" but not any thicker, again original.

I have had to use a modern day 5/8" (actual 0.563" or 14 mm) in some campers to match up to the cut out spot that was still dry. It swelled from original but it was closer to fitting a smooth transition. In other cases, I used modern day 1/2" (actual 0.469") and shimmed it over the floor joist to line up.

Curious, do you need to do a floor repair? or you have a squeek?

Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-26-2022, 07:40 AM   #3
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I'm contemplating a repair John. My better half says just leave it alone. So it's on my mind. I really don't want to get involved in a big messy repair just to cure a soft spot along one side of the bed.

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Old 06-26-2022, 03:08 PM   #4
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Hi Bob,

You stated this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodoleBob View Post
to cure a soft spot along one side of the bed.
A soft spot, h'mm, which side of the bed is it on? The exit door to outside (right side) or the non door side, (left side)

I'm assuming "along one side of the bed" means the walk way to go along the bed and then, get onto the bed? Please confirm.

Next is the definition of soft.

Soft option 1: This softness is from water damage. The OSB flooring gets soggy from a leak, when you step between the floor joists, that lack of support on water infected OSB gets soft and you feel it walking over it.

Soft option 2: There is not a leak in this case, but this can happen in a high traffic area, meaning this same spot gets walked on all the time going in and out of the camper or back and forth in the camper. A squeak sometimes comes along with this, but not always. Due to the high constant traffic in a small space of a camper, the 1/2" flooring can get a little weaker over time between the floor joists and that localized area, can feel a slight depression when you walk over it.

The feel between the 2 options is close, but slightly different. And option 1 does not squeak.

If you have a leak, stopping the leak is a need and sooner rather then later. The soft flooring is something that can be corrected later as long as the damage is not too bad, but the leak needs/should be found and sealed.

I have done several front floor remove and repairs, I have lots of pics of them. If you want to understand better if you have a leak, where to look, and how to seal it up, short term or long term, let me know, we can get into it.

I remember well the day you bought that camper, new. Wow, where does time go. The years do seem to buzz by lately.

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 06-27-2022, 08:43 AM   #5
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Yes it was quite a while back that we bought it, and shortly thereafter Sunline pulled the plug...very unfortunate.

I don't want to trouble you, John. I would appreciate seeing a few pictures of what the floor looks like without the bed. Roof photos will not be necessary as I do not climb on the roof. I have a young friend do the roof caulking for me. He is unlikely to want to do any serious roof work beyond that. Two of the vents...bathroom and bedroom are in need of replacement. I have both protected by the covers Sunline installed. So, the vents are no longer used.

Again that's a result of my being a non climber. You might wonder why not have a camper dealer replace them. They are so overwhelmed with repair work since the covid era began my trailer would sit in a lot for several months before seeing them do any repair. So, we do without for the few years left of our camping trips. Bothers me to have loose ends so to speak, but such is my situation.

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Old 06-27-2022, 09:56 AM   #6
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Hi Bob,

I fully understand the backlog issues now at the dealers, it's bad with the overload of demand for repairs and warranty work. I have a neighbor up the road who bought a brand new Keystone 5th wheel in early Jan 2020 before Covid flared up. Come March/April when they wanted to attempt to use it, they had warranty issues. Between the state lockdown and the backlog at the dealers, they could not get in at all. I ended up helping them through warranty work just so they could use the camper. And this was at the start of Covid before the mass surge in selling campers. Now, it's as bad if not worse. Any dealer in our area is slammed with work. Folks with warranty work just can't get in until the camping season is over and then some.

Its not a bother to help you, I offered knowing well what the request may entail. This is what we do here on the forum.... Last summer I did a water damage repair on a 2006 T276SR Sunline for a friend with the front bedroom. The layout of that bedroom and your T2499 is almost the same as far as the bed, the cabinets, the windows, cargo area and the entry door next to the bedroom. I had the carpet pulled up and the bed frame all removed. I have many pics of that repair I can share, they are not yet uploaded to my picture server but can be soon.

So that I can pick pictures that are more close to what may be your issue, please tell me about these 2 questions.

1. Which side of the bed is the floor soft spot? The exit door side (right side) of the bed. OR the non door side, (left side) of the bed?

2. If you stick your head in the front cargo hole and sniff, does it smell like mildew? and does the left or right side smell any worse?


As FYI, to keep all the sides of the camper straight as we talk about this it is important to make sure we both are using the correct wording as we try to sort out issues. Many folks use different words for each side of the camper. these are the ones used most.

Left side = Driver side, street side or non door side.

Right side = Passenger side, curb side or door side.

Let me know and I'll get you some pics to see and we can go from there.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-27-2022, 11:30 AM   #7
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It's the left side John. This is where some pictures would help>>> I had the carpet pulled up and the bed frame all removed. I have many pics of that repair I can share, they are not yet uploaded to my picture server but can be soon.

Thanks John
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Old 06-27-2022, 12:42 PM   #8
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OK got it Bob, I'll gets some pics uploaded farily soon and will report back.
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Old 06-27-2022, 07:15 PM   #9
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Hi Bob,

Can you go open up the front left and right cargo area doors and look and sniff inside? Need to know if you smell mildew in this area, just bare new wood smell, or whatever smell you find.

Quote:
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Hi Bob,

2. If you stick your head in the front cargo hole and sniff, does it smell like mildew? and does the left or right side smell any worse?
The bedroom floor can get water wicked into the bedroom area from the front cargo area pending how much cargo area water damage there is. The front cargo area damage is more common then just left bedroom floor damage, but you may have a new situation to change that norm.

I'm just trying to get a read on potential areas that can affect the left side bedroom floor, and we need to look and sniff in that cargo area.

Pending that outcome, I can give you the right pics to know what might have happened and if you want to chase it that far. But still, we can seal up the leak from getting any worse regardless of any repair.

Thanks

John
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Old 06-28-2022, 12:01 PM   #10
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Ok John I did check the front cargo bay for any smell. Both side smell like wood, almost want to say new wood. I do store some blocks of wood in there to insert under the scissor jacks, and tires so a wood smell is expected. But no bad smells, no mildew as far as I can tell. I opened up the bed to peek at whatever there might have been in there. Looks like new, no damage, no rot, no mildew, nothing, we never used it in fact, except for storing some socks etc. in the driver side draw. When looking up in the front cargo bay it looks like brand new wood, no stains, nothing but what a new assembly from the factory would look like.

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Old 06-28-2022, 07:58 PM   #11
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Bob,

Your sniff report is great news!!!

I'll be back to type more, but a few quick questions for you to look at and report back.

The soft spot on the floor, look and feel real hard inside at the left wall board right at the floor line for any signs of water staining. And sniff this area also. Feel the carpet by pressing firmly too in the soft spot area, see if it feels any different then the hard floor area.

Also look at the wall board inside at the bottom of the window on that left side for any signs or smells of water staining.

Any chance you can post s few pics of the soft spot area or any water stains if you find them? Light up the area or use a flash so we can see the detail of the carpet and the wall board in this soft spot area.

Thanks

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Old 06-29-2022, 02:20 PM   #12
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Here's what I was able to find John. First of all, the only soft spot is NOT alongside the bed as I initially told you. It is ONLY in the front corner against the bathroom wall of the bedroom under the TV shelf and is very soft to a hand push let alone foot pressure. There is no staining anywhere that I can see relative to the areas you mentioned. There is no mildew smell that I can detect. Maybe I don't know what that smells like. In fact, if anyone was to walk into this area and did not happen to step on the soft spot everything else looks, smells good, and feels in very good condition. But that soft spot is doozy!

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Old 06-29-2022, 07:23 PM   #13
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Hi Bob,

This description helps tell me where you have your soft spot. The "front" word was a little confusing, but the rest of the description with the TV shelf pin pointed the area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodoleBob View Post
snip...

It is ONLY in the front corner against the bathroom wall of the bedroom under the TV shelf and is very soft to a hand push let alone foot pressure. There is no staining anywhere that I can see relative to the areas you mentioned. There is no mildew smell that I can detect. Maybe I don't know what that smells like. In fact, if anyone was to walk into this area and did not happen to step on the soft spot everything else looks, smells good, and feels in very good condition. But that soft spot is doozy!
As FYI for the future, we talked about left and right, I forgot to mention what is front, mid and back. Front = front of the camper, near the front wall. Mid = something in the middle length of the camper, Back or rear = the back/rear wall of the camper.

Tell me I have this correct:

The soft spot, the area you are describing is the are at the junction of the left sidewall and the bathroom/bedroom wall?

There should be a a wall access port/panel on the shower wall, Yes/No?

Behind that access panel is the shower faucet. The water pump and piping can/may also be seen if you look to the left side of the camper with that access off towards the camper left side mid peg board storage compartment.

See this pic, the access panel in on the wall with the TV shelf. This was in my 2004 T2499, yours should be similar.


Here is the cover off, I added pipe insulation to help the pipe vibration when using the water pump


And in the peg board cargo area, the water pump is under a removable wood cover. I changed the water pump on mine, but it is the same spot as yours under that wood cover.


Have a looking inside the shower wall access panel and remove the wood cover over the pump in the pegboard cargo area. You may have a pipe leak from the pump or shower piping that can wick/leach out into the bedroom floor.

I'm going to suggest something else to help confirm if you have water damage and where is started or how far it spread. This will take buying a moisture meter unless you have one. Amazon has the model I'm referring too and so does Lowes. There are other places too.

The cost keeps creeping up, it is now about $50 at either place. I know that may sound like a lot, but before you get into lifting rugs up or considering a floor repair, ideally you know how big or not your problem area is.

See this post for the General Instruments model MMD7NP Pinless Moisture Meter and links https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...per-17613.html

The meter after a small learning curve, will help confirm where there is moisture from water damage in a wall, floor, ceiling etc. Using wall mode on the meter, you scan the walls inside, the ceiling, the carpet and you can go under the camper and scan up against the black plastic membrane to see if there is wet insulation in the floor. Since your camper has the smooth fiberglass siding, you can even scan the wall outside looking in through the wall. I know you do not climb, but it work on the roof scanning down also.

The meter has never failed me yet, if there is wet water damage, it will find it. This takes away the smelling test, or is used in combination with it and visual signs.

If that soft spot, is as soft as you feel, water damage made it's way into that area from somewhere. The meter can help tell how big the wet area can be and where it stops.

Have a look at the water pump and shower access panel and see what that turns up.

If you decide to get the meter, I can explain more on how it can help you sort this out to find the source of the leak. The front left wall bedroom window is also a leak suspect, water can run down inside that wall cavity and into the floor from a window flange leaks to the siding. And, you may not be able to see any water damage on the wall inside, "yet". The vinyl wallpaper does a great job of hiding water leaks until the damage is deteriorated the wall board to almost be gone from the back side.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-30-2022, 12:46 PM   #14
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John,

I did some investigation. Removed the panel as you suggested. I never had that off by the way. I gave me another view of where I winterize. It also showed what happens when I get messy with water, and I do unfortunately. Easy to see now how a soft corner floor was probably created. The floor in the peg board cabinet is also very soft. I emptied it out and laid a length of two by plank in there and then put all my stuff back in. I'm not likely to make all the repairs probably needed except to firm up the bedroom corner. A couple more camping seasons is likely all we see in our future vacation thoughts for now. I wish I had known better how destructive water can be in an RV. Thank you John.

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Old 06-30-2022, 07:10 PM   #15
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Hi Bob,

Not sure how you could of been messy enough with adding the amount of water needed to rot out the camper floor. If you split a coffee cup amount of water in the bottom of the peg board cabinet, that is not enough to cause the damage you are describing. It takes more water then one coffee cup full. It takes lots of cups over a long time, years worth.

You may have a leak in at least these two suspected places. And both at the same time compounding the problem.

1. The peg board cargo door is very large in size, and it has a foam seal that is stuck on with adhesive to the door frame for the entire perimeter of the cargo door itself. That foam seal over time can get torn allowing rain water to wick into the compartment as there is a bad seal between the door and the metal door frame.

2. There is a putty tape seal failure between the fiberglass siding and the metal cargo door frame. There is high odds, this sealant has failed in some location and rain water will weep into the camper and go down until it can't go any further, which the floor of the compartment acts as this water stopping point.

Those 2 leaks areas can let a coffee cup size or more water leak into the camper every time it rains when the camper is exposed to the weather. After several years of this undetected seeping leaking going on, the OSB flooring that absorbs water, starts failing/falling apart as the glue is deteriorated and rot has set in.

If you want to seal up those 2 areas, I can explain how to do this. Item 2 is a caulking application using the correct caulk and prep work before applying. This is not a lot of work or cost, but will seal it up for many years to come.

Item 1, starts with an inspection to see how good or bad the foam gasket is, and if the door is warped. You can also do a light test. Plug in a bright light or flash light inside the cargo area. A lot of light, not a small light. Then, at night when it is dark enough, just look a the door seal area with the door closed as you normally have it. Are both cargo door thumb latches closed? if you leave one undone, undo that one and see if light can be seen at the door seal area. And the latches can be out of adjustment, including the center key latch, so the door wiggles even when the latches are all closed. This is a common problem.

If the door seal is bad, you have a few options for a new seal material I can link for you. And we can explain how to correct the door latch wiggle problem if needed

Hope this helps and let me know what you need help with.

John
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Old 07-02-2022, 06:43 AM   #16
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Hi John and Bob,
I didn't see any mention of the possibility of a leak from the shower plumbing since the pipes are in that divider wall between the bedroom and bath. Could a connection be leaking onto the floor?
Rich
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Old 07-06-2022, 01:03 PM   #17
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John...I did the light test on the peg board compartment. It's tight. The door seals quite well. No warpage either. So now I'm concentrating on a fix for the soft corner. Any thoughts on that would be appreciated.

Bob
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Old 07-08-2022, 12:11 PM   #18
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Hi Bob,

Good to hear your door foam seal is good and tight. This is a good start.

I will be glad to give you some thoughts/options on how to help fix the soft corner, can you post some pics of the location and the size of the damage? Pics really help in the cases seeing what you are up against. And others and myself will be able to give better suggestions for repair options that can work in your specific situation.

In case you forgot or did not know, there are 3 ways to add pics so we can see them.

1. Upload pics to a specific post attaching them at the end of the post. You can upload up to 6 pics per reply, if you want to show more then 6 in attach mode, then just make as many replies as needed to get 6 more etc,

2. Linking them in from a public viewable web photo hosting service you have.

See here for 1 and 2 https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post86041

3. You can upload pics to the forum in your own personal photo album. Then link them to anywhere in the text of a post. See here on how to create an album. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post87945

If you still get stuck, let us know. Glad to help.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-08-2022, 12:38 PM   #19
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I'll add one answer that started this whole thread, now with more certainty. You asked what the floor thickness was, well I was out in one of my project campers the other day that is all tore apart, and there in clear site is the printing on the floor of exactly what was installed when it was new. See pics of the main floor OSB sheathing.

Here is the entire label


Here is a zoom in of the details


It is 1/2" OSB when new. If there was water damage in the area, it will be thicker, this OSB swells often/a lot. An 1/8" swell is not uncommon even when it looks and feels solid still. And it does not seem to dry out and go back to the 1/2" after a few years of drying out. Your 2007 will be this same 1/2" OSB.

The above label is is from a 2004 T317SR Sunline. To my understanding, these all one piece sheets did not change original thickness across the board on all of their campers once they converted this style OSB. They called it out as "Weyerhaeuser Structurwood" and all one piece. I am not sure what model year the Structurwood floors started, I can find the Structurwood wording starting to show up in the 1990 model year brochures.

Sunline Fan might have some history on when the Weyerhaeuser Structurwood all started.

John
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