H'mm, you said you have a 2001 T1550. Maybe a typo as they used to make a T1550 just not in 2001 by the brochures. Is the year very wrong or is the model number have a typo in it? In 2001, the smallest camper was a T1950 which had tandem axles (2 axles) and was rated at a GVWR of 5,000#.
An actual T1550 only had a single axle.
The hub, meaning the brake drum, not knowing the model, I'm going to assume you may have the T1950, which could have 10" x 2 1/4" brakes on it. 10" being the ID of the brake drum where the shoes ride and 2 1/4" the width of the brake shoe.
Please confirm this, if you have the 10" x 2 1/4" brakes, those drums/hubs are rated for a up to a 3,500# axle tube. Meaning the entire axle combined. Each brake drum would be rated to 1,750#. While you may have lighter springs to de-rate the total camper gross vehicle, the axle and brakes are good up to 3,500# total axle, split equal between the 2 wheels.
Maybe we can help you not have to buy and entire new brake drum, did just the lug nut stud get damaged? If so, they are replaceable and NAPA may have the stud.
Again, assuming you have a 10 x 2 1/4" drum, the outside looks like this with 5 studs
And the inside of the drum, the studs are sunken into the drum and look like this.
If you have a damaged stud, they are pressed in. They look like this when out in the open.
Link to pic at Eastern Marine https://www.easternmarine.com/rockwe...ler-hubs-25-53
There are knurls that press in and bite into the drum to hold the stud from spinning. That link and that Pic is ONLY for reference
as I could not find the hub stud for a 10 x 2 1/4" brake drum. That stud fits a non brake axle. The one you want is a little longer.
NAPA may have replacement studs.
There will be one issue you have to overcome. Getting the old stud out. They are in there very tight. It is best if you have arbor press or a hydraulic press to press the old stud out.
But, I have drove them out before too, but they come out hard. If the nut will still start on the threads, just screw it on a turn or so. It is acting as a punch holder on the end of the threads. Using a large 3/8" tipped etc. punch or large center punch, held with vise grips so you do not beat up your hands, place the drum laying on a stable sound flat surface.
Put 2 x 4's or 2 x 6' or 3/8" or thicker plywood etc. on top of concrete floor then the drum on the wood, brake shoe surface down, studs up facing you. Wearing gloves, drive (pound) the pouch until the stud breaks free of the press fit. Unscrew the nut once the stud is almost all the way out, the stud will come out. Drive the new stud in.
If you can get the old stud out before you go to the store they can match it up easier.
Hope this helps