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Old 04-22-2019, 05:44 PM   #1
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Axle flip

Hey fellow campers, has anyone done a axle flip on a t2570 ? I dont believe I have straight axles they look like they bend up to connect to hubs . I was wondering if all I have to do is flip them 180 degrees .
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Old 04-22-2019, 07:01 PM   #2
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The drop axles need to stay in that position, but a flip is from over the springs to under. There is a flip kit that includes the hardware, it is an easy process, but requires a bit of welding to attach the new spring seats.
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:12 PM   #3
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Ok I am glad I asked . thank you for the help it is much appreciated.
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Old 04-22-2019, 09:08 PM   #4
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Many on the forum have done the "axle flip" on their campers. There is nothing special to the T2570 that would make your different then other floor plans in the same weight class camper.

Your camper should have qty. 2 3,500# axles, (7,000# GVWR) is that correct? If so, that should be a 2 3/8" axle tube. And yes they are what we call a "drop axle"

Here is the kit Tod is talking about. Scroll down to the "K71-384-00: Over/Under Conversion Kit"
http://www.dexteraxle.com/products/s...s/leaf-springs

Heads up, make sure you get the 2 3/8" tube kit and not the 3" tube kit as the 3" kit is for larger axles and will not work on your smaller one.

Here is link to Etrailer with a lot of great pics of this over/under kit installed on a drop axle. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...71-384-00.html

It is actually an over, under switch and not really the nickname, "axle flip"

When I buy Dexter parts, I check at least these 4 places once I know the part numbers I'm looking for. Some have free shipping, others you pay. So it is out the door cost. I have had good experience from all these suppliers. They are all neck and neck on cost. Some local trailer parts shops may have the kits too.

Etrailer https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...71-384-00.html

RV Upgrades https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Dexte...-p/46-3210.htm

Eastern Marine https://www.easternmarine.com/dexter...kit-k71-384-00

Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Dexter-K71384...r=8-1-fkmrnull

Here is one of many links on Sunline club doing the over/under conversion, in this case on a cargo trailer but is has good pics that will be comparable.
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...-kit-8167.html

There are 2 things to realize with all the height gain.

1. Odds are high you will need some kind of extra entry step into the camper. The jump is sort of too much without it.

2. You will have to readjust your WD hitch and may have to get a new hitch shank to account for the added height.

I think in no. 2 you are asking in the towing section on getting a WD hitch, so when that comes up, let us know as it could affect with WD shank you get.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:35 AM   #5
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Anyone ever want to go back and undo the Axle Flip?
To much wind resistance, sway problems, etc....
Or is it all good!!! Thanks
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Old 05-04-2019, 05:09 PM   #6
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Undo? We were a house divided, did the switch on T1950. I actually do most of the driving when towing, 5 states. There is a difference in feel of TT following behind. Our WD was also moved up one hole, I wonder if it could take a move up one more hole. Will be reviewing that this weekend.

Before we have towed with full water tank which for us is behind axles, going to try full tank to help decide if that was part of the change in preceived minor change before raising ball any higher as ground measuring is O.k. We use one sway bar.

New clearance is wonderful, no more digging of rear bumper even in our yard. With the spare tire also making a furrow. Use an adjustable platform step.

On a solid surface parking pad, the small sized stabilizers don't quite give us that stable feel parked now. I hope to try between the tires X in the next weeks.

IMHO, my observation to date was closer to porpoising (minor) we have terrible roads but ones we had traveled local before. Center of gravity has changed, those full circle without banking exit ramps..oh yes, I slow down..not worth it!

There is a thread about changing the drop axles to straight, you might want to investigate that avenue.
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Old 05-05-2019, 01:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flbradjr View Post
Anyone ever want to go back and undo the Axle Flip?
To much wind resistance, sway problems, etc....
Or is it all good!!! Thanks
A lot of folks here have done it, and I've never heard one person say they would go back. I love the idea of a low slung trailer, but in practice flipped is way more practical.
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Old 09-05-2020, 09:01 PM   #8
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John B
I have a 1993 Solaris T-2653.
How do I determine which brand and part number for my rig?
I'd like to replace the tandem axles with all new axles hubs brakes wheels and tires.
Mine is underslung.
I'm thinking this is the right place.
Dexter Camper Axles
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Old 09-07-2020, 10:20 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Aircastle64 View Post
John B
I have a 1993 Solaris T-2653.
How do I determine which brand and part number for my rig?
I'd like to replace the tandem axles with all new axles hubs brakes wheels and tires.
Mine is underslung.
I'm thinking this is the right place.
Dexter Camper Axles
Hi,

You have some of this correct, let me fill in some of the gaps.

Your 1993 T-2653 has a 7,000# GVWR. Meaning the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. The most the camper can weigh fully loaded.

Your tandem axles, springs and wheels/rims should be rated to handle 1/2 the load each. In this case you need 3,500# axle tubes, leaf springs with at least 1,750# ratings and the wheels/rims to be able to handle at least 1,750 # each. I say the least as the springs and wheels can be rated heavier, just not lighter. The 3,500# axle tube is the right size and the next size up is 4,200# and that is a big jump and not needed.

Tires are a different story. The new way of thinking is too have an extra 20% tire capacity (reserve capacity) per actual tire/wheel location to handle the weight and the twisting forces in tire from a tandem axle setup. This twisting is called interply shear in the tire world. I am not 100% sure what tire size your 93 camper has. I'm assuming Sunline would of put on ST205/75R15 load range C. Which is a 50 psi tire rated at 1,820# each. The next jump up is load range D, which is 65 psi rated at 2,150# each. Make sure you check and confirm if they have 14 or 15" wheels.

If you loaded the camper all the way to, 7,000# + 20% =8,400# worth of tires. But your trailer tongue does handle some of the weight and the truck is holding that up. Your camper fully loaded might have 850# to 1,000# loaded tongue weight and the tires would not need to hold all the weight. Assuming you have 850# on the tongue weight, then the tires are only handling 6,150# + 20% = 7,380# worth on the tires. The C tire load range is very close to this.

Going up a tire load range to a D load range gives you more tire reserve capacity to handle interply shear, but you may or may not need it. This all comes down to, what is the heaviest tire location on the camper? Camper floor plans differ and where cargo can be stored is different. While Sunline did a good job on camper weight and balance, all 4 wheels are not loaded equal. The ideal way to solve this unknown is, you load up the camper with all the camping gear and fresh water you must have and tow with, then go weigh the camper and get individual wheel weights. If that is not possible in your case, then you need to estimate and manage your cargo to fit the extra 20% goal.

Since you are buying new wheels, buy the wheel/rim to meet the tire load rating or the next load rating up in case you need to upgrade in the future. You can mount C load range tires on a D load range rim without issues.

On the axles tubes, you need to measure 2 dimensions on your existing axles. The center to center distance of the axle seats where the leaf springs mount and the brake drum machined face (hub face) where the tire mounts from drum to drum. Your new axle needs to match those two dimensions.

If you are buying new leaf springs springs, (suggest you do) you need the weight rating, the eye to eye center distance of an unloaded spring, the width (1 3/4" is common on the Sunlines of your size) and the vertical height from the axle seat mounting area up to the spring eye centers (the arch). Also check the number of leafs match what you have now that. Do not get any less leafs, too harsh a ride. Equal leafs is OK and more leafs are OK just check the tire/wheel well bump clearance if you go more leafs.

This company, Axle Inc. is very helpful with supplying your Dexter parts. AXLE Inc. - Towable Trailer Axle Specialists Call them and they will help you on the sizing I am talking about above. Other then maybe the tire sizing, I am not sure they do the extra 20% guideline yet.

They have a form to fill out and they can then quote you.
Sprung Axle Order Form - Axle Inc. of Elkhart

I would shop them at least to get a cost. I'm not saying you have to go with them. I did buy may axle tubes from them but did not buy may brake parts from them.

Other axle providers are these places. I have used them and had good experiences from them.

Eastern Marine. You may have to buy them in parts then a complete assembly. But they have a good supply of Dexter parts at good prices.
https://www.easternmarine.com/

Etrailer. You may have to buy them in parts then a complete assembly. But they have a good supply of Dexter parts at good prices.
https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=dexter+brake+axle

Freight, check the freight as that can be a big adder and some places charge and others like ETrailer does not.

Dexter also sells direct in some cases.

Who ever you buy from, call and talk to them to make sure you know exactly what they are supplying. Feel good they know what they are talking about.

Odds are high, you need to order the correct dimension axle tube widths for your camper. They are made to order. It takes about 2 weeks to have them made up and shipped. All the web based axle tubes may be size for cargo or flat bed trailers. Campers may not fall into the standard sizes that regular trailers use.

Wheels/rims. I myself look for DexStar wheels if you are after steel wheels. Dexstar Wheel - Trailer Rims and Wheels These are good quality wheels. There are a lot of cheap wheels out there, I cannot speak for those brands. I have bought many DexStar wheels from Etrailer and had very good success.

Tires, this is subject in itself. The first is to get the right type and size correct. The brand can be a personal thing. For ST tires, I would only use these 3 brands and the specific tire I linked not in any order. Others may have there opinions and they good too.

Goodyear Endurance, https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tires...e-trailer-tire

Maxxis ST Radial M8008, https://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-...t-radial-m8008

Carslie Radial Trail HD https://www.carlislebrandtires.com/o...dial-trail-hd/

You may find it better/cheaper to break up the order rather then buy everything from one source. Tires and wheels, seperate from axles, springs, brakes, drums as a separate set.

It is not that hard to size all this up once you know what to look for, but it does take time to shop.

Hope this helps,

John,

PS. This place you found, Dexter Camper Axles I do not know them, and I can't speak to their service and cost.

PS 2. The term brake axle, often refers to a axle tube, brake drums and complete brakes as a set. The brake axle may or may not have the leaf springs. Axle tube is just the actual tube. Brake plate often refers to the complete brake shoe assembly but not the brake drums.
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Old 09-08-2020, 05:10 AM   #10
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Thank you so much

I canít thank you enough for taking the time to be so detailed I appreciate the effort! I posted some pictures of my t-2653 . Itís a 1993
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:19 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Aircastle64 View Post
I canít thank you enough for taking the time to be so detailed I appreciate the effort! I posted some pictures of my t-2653 . Itís a 1993
You are very welcome. Glad it helped.

I looked at your camper pics, here https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/m...albums819.html

Very nice looking camper from the pics. Enjoy!

We look forward to seeing and hearing about your Sunline adventures. We like pics!

Any an all questions about your Sunny, towing, camping etc, this is the place!

John
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Old 04-08-2021, 07:17 PM   #12
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I did the axle flip on my T 2499. One of the best improvements to the trailer out of anything I've done. I didn't do it so much for travel reasons but more for raising the height of the black and grey water hook up off the ground further. What I found with the stock height was that I was more often than not trying to push my grey/black water uphill into a drain instead of downhill because the trailer sat so low to the ground. I have had no towing issues with it since either.
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Old 06-08-2021, 05:28 PM   #13
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I have a 1995 T1550 and am considering having my local travel trailer dealer and repair shop flip my axle. Is this a good idea, has anyone done it on these smaller trailers? I would like to since my plumbing hangs low and I have rubbed it on a driveway into a gas station, and a couple of campgrounds had speed bumps one had dirt ones and one had pavement ones. The roads in my state are very bumpy and pot holes so I worry about my plumbing on some of the roads. I also have had to put blocks under my wheels to make my camper high enough to be able to use the dump station. Or is it better to replace leaf springs or add more leafs?
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Old 06-08-2021, 06:59 PM   #14
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I have a '99 T-1950 (a bit bigger than yours), did the axle flip and would do it again in a heartbeat. I think the main reason Sunline built them so low was for towing stability, but as you've found, that really limits you when it comes to rough terrain.

I honestly can't tell any difference in stability after the flip, and it's given me access to places I couldn't have gone before. One small consideration you should be prepared for: the entry door steps will end a few inches higher. No big deal if you're fit and healthy; if not, you can just carry a stepstool to help with the hitch in yer getalong.
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Old 06-09-2021, 05:07 AM   #15
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Thank you. I usually have folding plastic stool in the camper and one in the truck. The last campground I had trouble getting the camper off the hitch as the truck was on a slight decline and the camper was level but didn't have the clearance with the plumbing to crank the tongue high enough to unhitch.
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:47 AM   #16
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Hi JennyC - we have a 2753 and are very pleased with our axle flip. Only one year in with 800 miles traveled but no problems.
Camped at Rollins Pond (Tupper Lake, NY) - curvey with hills and narrow road plus we traveled N & S on NYS thruway.
Perfect trip.
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Old 06-12-2021, 05:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
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I did the axle flip on my T 2499. One of the best improvements to the trailer out of anything I've done. I didn't do it so much for travel reasons but more for raising the height of the black and grey water hook up off the ground further. What I found with the stock height was that I was more often than not trying to push my grey/black water uphill into a drain instead of downhill because the trailer sat so low to the ground. I have had no towing issues with it since either.
Ditto on drain pipe height. Really helps to have RV tank discharge above sewer pipe. Added benefit to flipped axels.
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