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Old 04-18-2010, 10:01 AM   #1
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Fred
Need to repair bathroom floor

Ok, so I am about to take on what I feel is a major repair job for myself. I have a 1998 T-2670 Solaris with a rear bath. I have found that the floor in the center of the bath is soft and I and my son are going to repair it. Before I start, does anyone have any words of advice or technical help that will aid me in this repair? I wish there was someplace to call for technical assistance but since they, (the factory) is shut, I am on my own as my dealer is gone as well. So far I have gotten the commode removed but the ring on the floor to which the commode secures to I can not seem to get that free even after unscrewing the four screws that held it in place. When I try to lift it, it seems as if it is secured to the holding tank somehow,or is it just snug in the opening to the tank and has to be broken free?
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Old 04-19-2010, 06:58 AM   #2
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RPierce
Hi Fred
I too had to replace the bathroom floor and entire rear area of my 94 T-2670.

As for the toilet flange after you remove the screws it is threaded into the top of the holding tank.


Here is link to my post on floor repair.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/ph...215&highlight=

As you can see I had to remove the bathroom vanity and the rear lower bunk.

The damage in my TT extended down the center all the way to the couch.

I removed all the damaged wood and wet insulation and ran a fan to get good and dry, treat any mold areas with a solution of bleach and water to kill the mold.

I used a Marine grade plywood and installed a laminate floor over that.

Hope this helps and good luck.
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1994 Sunline Solaris T2670
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:54 PM   #3
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Fred
Thanks for the reply. Got the ring off and started to cut the linoleum and found I had more flooring to replace as I did so. I am taking this slow and easy as this is new to me and I want to do it right and only once. How did you get the bathroom cabinet and sink out without damaging it too much? In the event that I have to remove the tub, do you have any suggestions on doing that?
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Old 04-24-2010, 07:45 AM   #4
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RPierce
Fred,
All the walls and cabinets are screwed in place with square headed screws. If you look under your sink counter top you should see some screws, take them out and unhook water lines and drain. The counter and sink should lift right off. If I remember right there was a piece on the back wall supporting the counter that I had to carefully pry off. It looked to me like the screws to that piece were put on through the back wall before the siding was put on. I just built a new support to replace it. After you get the counter top off you should be able to see the screws holding the cabinet into the floor and wall. The unit comes out in one piece but it is a tight fit. I did scuff my wall a little getting it out and back in. I didn't remove my tub, we don't use it and after removing the access door it didn't look like I had any damage under there. I used a sawzs all and cut the screws under the interior walls. Take some measurements of your wall placement so you can get the back in place. I cut the new plywood and slid it under my walls and then just place my screws at an angle to refasten them.

Good luck.
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Old 04-25-2010, 12:54 PM   #5
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All cabinets that touch the walls would have been screwed in from outside before the metel was installed. There will be screws every 4 - 6 inches so that may be tough to get out without breaking things. The cabinet itself is only a 3/4 X 3/4 inch skeleton covered in paneling. If you can see the 3/4 inch cleat on the back wall you may be able to pop the paneling free and leave the cleat on the wall. When the floor is fixed you should be able to set the cabinet back in place and staple the panel back to the cleat.
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
All cabinets that touch the walls would have been screwed in from outside before the metel was installed. There will be screws every 4 - 6 inches so that may be tough to get out without breaking things. The cabinet itself is only a 3/4 X 3/4 inch skeleton covered in paneling. If you can see the 3/4 inch cleat on the back wall you may be able to pop the paneling free and leave the cleat on the wall. When the floor is fixed you should be able to set the cabinet back in place and staple the panel back to the cleat.
Didn't take long for that Sunline experience to help out!!!!

Welcome Aboard!!
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