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Old 06-17-2012, 07:30 AM   #1
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frig not working

Just bought a used 1985 sun line. everything works but the frig. I have power to the plug but thats it. no lights inside nothing. where should i start?
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:52 AM   #2
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breakers??????
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:20 AM   #3
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I did and have power. I looked a other postings and find that it takes awhile for it to cool down. I feel the pipes in back are warm to almost hot, so maybe its working. However i do not see any interior lights of any kind. Would think there would be aleast a little red power light
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimandlauri View Post
I did and have power. I looked a other postings and find that it takes awhile for it to cool down. I feel the pipes in back are warm to almost hot, so maybe its working. However i do not see any interior lights of any kind. Would think there would be aleast a little red power light
The inside fridge bulb may be burnt out and yes it takes a good 10-12 hours for it to cool down.....we have a remote temperature sensor in the fridge and it reads out on a wireless thermometer so we can check the cool down period.....

If you have a thermometer laying around...put it in the fridge and after a few hours check the temp to see if it is actually getting cooler!
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:07 AM   #5
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It's possible that there might not be an interior light. Since your currently waiting for it to cool down, you don't want to be holding the door open to look around real well inside. But, once it's cool, just look inside for a small light socket, it might have a lens on it and it might not. But, depending on the Model # of the fridge, it might not have a light. Also, what model Sunline do you have ?

Welcome to the group and congrats on your purchase.

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Old 06-17-2012, 08:57 PM   #6
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Old RV refrigerators are notorious for going bad. A huge majority of Sunlines I see older than say 1990 all have replacement refrigerators in them now. I'd say 8 or 9 out of 10 have a dorm style electric refrigerator.

Here's what I'd do. For both gas and electric operation, take a small paper cup and fill it half full with luke-warm water. Put it in the freezer portion. If about 8 hours later it isn't frozen or at least very cold, I'd say the refrigerator is toast.

The refrigerators are certainly rebuildable, but it usually costs a lot less to go with the electric only style from like Wal-mart (though it can't run on gas then and I frown upon that option). It's easier to replace the whole refrigerator with a new RV refrigerator, and the matching wood panel on the door with the handle can be removed (slid out of a channel) and put on a new door to make it look factory.
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Old 06-18-2012, 07:02 AM   #7
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Even if they get hot around the boiler does not mean they work. They do take a long time to cool off I usually turn mine on the day before I leave then fill it the next day before I take off. If it's a Domedic there is a little window that allows you to see if the propane flame but no lights. I would leave it on for a day and see what happens.
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:16 PM   #8
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Here's a little snippet of info From THIS page..

"RV refrigerators operate by heating a sealed cooling element either with a gas flame, or an electric heating element. The cooling unit amounts to a series of tubes filled with an ammonia-based liquid. As heat is applied, the fluid circulates through the cooling unit drawing the heat out of the refrigerator."

"Troubleshooting An RV Refrigerator.. When an RV refrigerator starts failing (not cooling as well as it should), it means the fluid is no longer circulating properly through the cooling unit.
The nice thing about RV refrigerators is there are no moving parts. There are no pumps to wear out, and no compressors either. All the work is done simply by heating liquid ó like in your coffee pot. When it boils, it perks the coffee. When the ammonia is heated, it circulates.
If the cooling unit develops a leak, you will smell ammonia in a big way. This isnít a very common occurrence, but if it does happen, you will immediately know where the problem is."


"

"When RV Refrigerators Arenít Used
More often, the problem with an RV refrigerator is time combined with lack of use. As RV refrigerators age, the ammonia liquid can create sediment that settles to the bottom of the cooling unit. This sediment will hinder the ability of the ammonia to circulate properly through the cooling unit. As the sediment builds up, the refrigerator will cool less and less.
A refrigerator that is used once or twice a year over a period of 5 or 6 years is much more likely to plug up than one that is in continual operation. Fluid movement keeps any sediment suspended in the fluid, which ultimately prevents any accumulation from occurring.
Now we know why it doesnít work. What can be done about it?"


"Repairing vs Replacing A Non-Cooling RV Refrigerator
It has been said that if you remove the refrigerator from the RV and turn it upside down for a period of time, it may start working again. Iíve never personally used that method, but the theory behind it is only marginally acceptable. Once sediment exists, you may dislodge it for a period of time, but as soon as the refrigerator sits again for a period of time it will again settle and plug up the tubes. Rebuilt cooling units can be purchased ó in effect, rebuilding your refrigerator. It will again cool as good as a new refrigerator. But here is where the problem comes inÖ
Replacement cooling units are expensive, and combined with the labor required to remove a bad cooling unit and install a new one, the cost of the project will be at or above the cost of buying a complete new refrigerator."



I've successfully used the method described above. The only difference, was that I turned it on both sides also. I also used a rubber hammer and gently, but firmly tapped the sides of the fridge. I turned it on each of the four sides and tapped whatever side was on top. I left it on each side for an hour, finally ending up with it upright.
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:12 PM   #9
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Thanks to everyone for the input. Seem to be working fine. I just had to give it some time.
If I plug it in and cool it down the day before and put food in it, I will have to unplug it to travel I would think it would cool down quickly if you travel for hours and hours the food would spoil.
I do have extension cords but that will only get me to the end of my street
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:18 PM   #10
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Check the operation on propane... That will keep it cooling, even while you are driving....

These things operate on heat, in order to cool the unit. The heat makes the ammonia based cooling fluid go round and round....
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:23 PM   #11
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I will try that now, hope it lights
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimandlauri View Post
I will try that now, hope it lights
If not, you know where to come for help!
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:44 PM   #13
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To emd driver.
That was easy . Light first try.
I will roll up the extension cords. I am sure with two hundred miles of cord I might have some voltage drop anyway
Thanks
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Old 06-18-2012, 05:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimandlauri View Post
I am sure with two hundred miles of cord I might have some voltage drop anyway
Depends on the wire gauge!
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
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To emd driver.
That was easy . Light first try.
I will roll up the extension cords. I am sure with two hundred miles of cord I might have some voltage drop anyway
Thanks

OK Jim & Laurie, it sounds like you are going to fit in just perfectly with this group!!!!
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Old 06-19-2012, 10:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimandlauri View Post
To emd driver.
That was easy . Light first try.
I will roll up the extension cords. I am sure with two hundred miles of cord I might have some voltage drop anyway
Thanks
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
I am sure with two hundred miles of cord I might have some voltage drop anyway
Quote:
Depends on the wire gauge!
He going to buy a HDT conversion rig so he can haul the cord reel!!!

Take off the toolbox and mount a huge cord reel!!!!

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