Since your camper is a 2007, a large amount wear in the bronze bushings of the pinion gears is possible. This will all "depend" on how much use it had over it's life, the location of the pinion gears in relation to road splash, dirt in the gears and if the prior owners ever greased the bushings/gears.
When the bushings wear out the gears drop down from the gear rack and start wearing very wrong. It may also jump a tooth or more as there is so much play in the gears that it can jump teeth. I have seen that the pinion shaft bushing at the master rack where the square shaft starts to drive the auxiliary rack, wears the most. All of the bushings can be shot and the bushing housing. LCI does sell all the parts to rebuild the system.
This is fairly easy to see if you go looking for it. Many folks really do not know about this and it does not get much attention unit it stops working. Which can be around maybe 8 to 12 years old pending how it was used. Mine went 13 years before I noticed the wear and I changed the bushings before the gearing was affected. I do grease the bushings and gears. I'm also lucky enough the gearing is not outside the frame getting a lot of road splash in it. I corrected a friends camper that was a 2005 a year ago and it ate up the pinion housing as there was no bushing left. The auxiliary slide arms bushing were shot too. There was no lube and lots of rust in the system. She found the slide working hard and that is how the problem was found and had jumped teeth the wear was so bad. My sons 2006 camper this year had a bushing change as a pre-emptive move as there was enough wear to warrant a bushing rebuild before things started to work wrong.
This post will show what bushing wear looks like and how to repair if you want to take this on yourself. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ics-17525.html
I bring that up as if you have worn bushings or gearing that should be corrected before trying to adjust the slide
. A worn system can create some of the problem you are reporting on the auxiliary slide arm.
Assuming you have good gearing, or you replaced the gearing and still have the same 1" gap on both in and out of the slide
then this is how you adjust the slide. This procedure will move both ends of the slide at once. It is not to be used if only one end of the slide room is not in the correct location. Those are different settings.
A few big picture general guidelines.
First, all adjustments as you found them should be documented. Meaning measure or mark somehow so that you can always go back to that same measurement if needed.
Second, do slide adjustments in small amounts. If you are after a 1" gap, do a few smaller adjustments first and make sure the gap is closing. A 1/8" move on adjustment does not always equal a 1/8" gap reduction. Sneak up on the measurement so you do not overcompress the system.
The extend full out adjustment.
Do this adjustment first.
This is done at the master rack. First a little explanation on the master rack system. The stroke of the slide motor system, (meaning the max distance it has mechanically to move) is more stroke distance then the width of the slide room. Meaning if you over adjust this, you can be putting a lot of excess pressure on the walls and the slide room. The goal is that on the exend full out of the master rack, the ACME screw system of the master rack will reach full out mechanical end of stroke. The motor has a clutch on it that will trip when the ACME screw reaches end of stroke. A clunk, clunk, clunk ratcheting sound can be heard on many of these LCI units which is the clutch tripping.
Since they want the master rack to reach full out stroke and trip the clutch on the extend out motion, they made an adjustment system so the slide room will "stop" moving out at the same time the clutch trips if adjusted correctly. At this end of stroke stopping point the slide flanges are compressed "tight" and even top and bottom but the slide flanges are not to be over compressed hurting the slide room wall. Right now, your room should be reaching full out master rack stroke but the slide room is not yet full out. We need to change that relationship.
Look on your master rack from this threaded rod and jam nuts.
This is from the older LCI manual
What they call the Nylock nut and Jam nut 2 is what you will adjust to move the slide room "out" further than it normally goes. By loosening the nylock nut out to create a "1/4" gap between the nylock nut and the slide arm attachment plate, then tightening jam nut 2 will shift the slide room out approx 1/4" as jam nut 2 progresses in movement. You will move jam nut 2 until the gap is totally closed and slide arm plate and nylock nut are all tight against each other.
To make that adjustment, you do not do it at full stroke. Move the slide out some distance short of full out. 1/2 way out to 3/4 the way out so you can get in to work on it and make your adjustment. Tighten everything up from your adjustment and test the slide in and out and see how much gap you closed up of your 1". Determine if you need to move it more and then re-adjust as needed. As you get closer to closing up the 1" gap, go in fine adjustments at the end. It is better to be 1/8" short then an 1/8" over compressed. Overcompressiung hurts the slide seals over time and in extreme cases damages the wall or the slide room flanges over time of over compressing.
Once the slide room extend "out" motion is correct, then do the slide room "in" settings.
The retract full in adjustment.
Do this after the slide out settings are correct.
In this case of the "in" motion you do "not" want the master rack ACME screw motion to reach the end of its full retract mechanical stroke. When adjusted correctly, the system will stop and stall out before you reach the full in end of the mechanical stroke. They do this on purpose so they do not have to make the slide room width the exact dimension of the ACME screw system stroke. Your clutch may trip on the retract in stroke or the slide room may simply stop with a slight grunt and you let your finger off the slide button. The DC motor will stall out and stop.
Back to these 2 pictures.
There is a stop can and jam nut 1 locking the stop can in place.
The goal is that the slide flanges actually reache correct full compression at the same time the stop can bottoms out on the camper frame. And the frame I beam web may flex some from the stop can pressing on it. LCI has told me this is normal for the frame to flex a little bit.
To make this adjustment, extend out the slide 1/2 to 3/4 of the way so you can reach the stop can and jam nut 1. To move the slide room flanges "in" closer to the camper wall flanges when fully retracted in is reached, you loosen jam nut 1 and screw the stop can away from the camper. Start with 1/4" movement out of the stop can for your 1" problem and tighten jam nut 1. Test the system and be watching the stop can and the slide room flanges compress at the same time. Someone needs to be inside and work the switch. Make further tweaks as needed. The goal is both the slide seals compress correctly and the stop can rests on the frame at the same time.
Hope this helps and let us know how you make out.