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Old 05-17-2020, 02:02 PM   #1
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New 1981 SunLite 15'

JUST brought home our new SunLite.



First list of little things and new here, my son told us that we need some sort of screen that goes over the furnace exhast holes on the side of the camper?


Also needing one square light cover.


Then some basic questions about self contained units. Looks like a tube is needed for dumping waste and is that normally stored in the rear bumper box? The water tank fills when the water supply hose is connected or is there another way. Does the shower feed only off a water supply line? Water heater automatic or how does it turn on? Then, our first awning, this must be spring loaded to roll back up?



Otherwise maybe a link where I can find the Owner's Guide or other answers along the way? I just don't want to start anything before knowing how it works, MAY safe repairs later...


We are so lucky that ours is pristine clean, new tires and all! Now the important question to me... Can we get new stickers and stripes. Or do I need to make my own? There are just areas that are missing.


We appreciate your time and expertise, and know someday I'll be able to help others, as I have done learning about my AMC's.


Blessings
Richard & Lori
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Old 05-17-2020, 04:50 PM   #2
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mainah is an unknown quantity at this point
Screen won't hurt but many get by without them. Lens depends on who made them. Yes the stinky slinky is usually stored in the rear bumper. The water tank has it own fill connection usual a small door on the side of the camper it does not fill automatically. Somewhere in the camper should be a water pump switch that will need to be turned on to get water from the tank if you are not hooked up. The heater is not automatic it has to be lit. Once it is lit it will come on with demand. Pretty much all campers are alike they all use the same principles the sunline were just a bit better made.
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Old 05-18-2020, 01:19 PM   #3
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SUN #11908
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Thanks for the info! He mentioned a screen to keep hornets out of it? Found the water fill pull out. The switch is inside the door on the stove cabinet along with a switch for lights. I have it plugged into electric and all the lights work off their switches but I do not see any controlled by the switch. Am I missing something or maybe that switch is for 12V lighting?
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Richard
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:07 PM   #4
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All of the lighting is 12 volt that way you'll have light when you are not plugged in. You have a gadget called a converter/charger it does two things it charges the battery and makes 12 volts for lights, pump etc. When it's not plugged in the same stuff then uses the battery alone. Your switch may well be for the pump or an outside light often in the grab handle,
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:18 PM   #5
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Never thought about outside light, SunLine SURE thought of everything. So would there be a battery somewhere on the 1981 15 SC?
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:41 PM   #6
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Yes should be on the tongue hopefully you will find wiring there.
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:44 PM   #7
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OK doesn't look like this model had one, it would be a car battery right, as I did some internet searches learning about it before buying it. Thought it would just run off the car battery when plugged in?

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Old 05-18-2020, 05:00 PM   #8
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No it should have battery they are a bit different that a car battery but look the same. If it ran off the car battery you could end up with a dead car battery when you wanted to go home! Many 7 pin camper plugs did have wiring to charge the camper battery but while driving only.
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Old 05-18-2020, 05:12 PM   #9
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Cool will look into that too.
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Richard & Lori
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Old 05-28-2020, 06:30 PM   #10
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A group 24 Deep Cycle RV/Marine battery is probably best bet for the 15. It will run longer than a car battery and drain deeper before it craps out completely. Also your trailer brakes "Breakaway" or "Deadman" switch is connected to the battery. In case your trailer separates from the car/truck, there is a cable that attaches to the car, pulling out a pin in the "Deadman switch" turning the brakes FULL ON.



If your vehicle has a Factory 7way plug it may have the 12V already wired but NOT CONNECTED to the Fuse panel under the hood. The wire will need to be dug out of the wiring harness and connected to the properly fused B+ Post at the Fusing panel. It's usually switched (IGN ON) so unless your engine stalls or the alternator craps out, it will charge the battery while driving. Same thing with the trailer brake wiring (unless both are already hooked up and working already).



If you don't plan on using the Furnace by all means put some screen (metal only) material over the outlet and inlets. But make sure it's clear and clean 1st. Bugs, hornets, etc., may not appreciate being locked in what is literally an oven. Blow some compressed air into the inlet and let it blow for 30 seconds or so (use a blow gun with a short extension should you p.o. some hornets, wasps, etc.). Then fire it up and make sure it cycles a few times to burn off carcasses, etc. Then blow it out after it cools. Cover inlet and outlet with screens.



Water tank fill and Shoreline water inlet both use the same lines internally but the two sources are separated by one-way valves at the Waterpump.



The Water Heater is most likely a 6 gallon unit and operates basically the way an older home gas water works. Turn on Gas bottle. Then on the regulator turn the off/Pilot/On knob to PILOT, and push the RED Button next to it. Light the pilot with a extension wand lighter (BBQ Lighter). Keep red button down for about 30-45 seconds or until pilot light stays lit when you slowly release button. Then turn Off/Pilot/On knob to ON. The burner valve will open and depending if an Atwood or Suburban you'll hear a slight whoosh(Atwood) or a loud Thump Whoosh (suburban). This is Normal. It will then automatically keep water hot. Just don't expect to take long HOLLYWOOD Showers. The shorter and less water the better (don't mess with Momma. When she wants hot water she wants it yesterday for a shower, not next week.) Best to take a sink bath in cold water and leave her the hot.


Brochures, Manuals etc can be found at the top of the page in the "FILES" tab.
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Old 05-29-2020, 06:47 AM   #11
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The T.V. (tow vehicle) DC connection is controlled by a device called an isolator its purpose is to disconnect the TV when it is not running to avoid killing the battery in the TV it generally is wired. The wiring for the camper brakes generally is not unless it came with a brake controller in the tow package. The wiring is in place but because people have favorite brands of controllers they often came without a controller. In the rear of the TV if it is a tow package there should be a hefty connection point with a spring loaded door and 7 copper pins if there is none it is not wired for a camper. Often people add wiring to the rear tail lights to operate the trailer brake/signal lights it will be a flat 4 pin connection this type has no wiring for trailer brakes or camper battery charging.
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