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02-28-2014, 03:33 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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I will trace the 7-way plug wiring to see where it might plug into the main wire harness.
Yes, the turn signal switch/lever was replaced with a new one, now solution there.
jim, What do you mean by a wiring module? LIke a junctionbox? since I do not have wiring diagrams I can't be certain but I've seen nothing about one so far.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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02-28-2014, 04:20 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,126
SUN #4040
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On the Chevy I meant in front of Left tail light behind access or trim panel, mounted to body panel, don't know my left from right yet .
On the Chevy van and my Jeep there is a sealed solid state junction box (module) where the trailer wiring comes out of. Not sure if Expedition has one but being newer than the van or Jeep I would look for one. Small black box maybe 2 1/2" square x 1/2" thick and a lot of wires. Wires coming to it don't seem to come from tail lights. Never had need to trace them.
Good luck
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Jim and DW Darlene
2001 T-2553 Sunline Solaris
2006 GMC Sierra Duramax 2500HD 4X4
Firestone Transforce AT tires
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control
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02-28-2014, 06:14 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363
2008
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Thanks. I see places that mention "newer" Expeditions have the directional in the computer but nobody mentions what year "newer" is. Will keep looking to see if I find anything more specific.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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03-01-2014, 05:25 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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Hi Gene, thanks for looking. I think I saw where the 2008 was mentioned as the "newer" body style.
I talked to the manager of a local Ford dealership and he says he hadn't heard anything about water leaks and electrical problems. It seems strange that there are so many onine posts about it but Ford has no record of it. Oh well. Still looking.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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03-01-2014, 05:54 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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How much was the signal switch? I think from the description that is the controller.
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03-01-2014, 06:36 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Another thought does it have mirror lights? And does the steering wheel tilt? Has any one yet removed the light assemble and checked the grounding?
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03-01-2014, 07:15 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363
..... One local shop removed the turnsignal lever from the column and ordered a new one from Ford. The new Ford switch was plugged in and lights worked the same......
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That would be the MultiFunction Switch mentioned earlier.
I came accross a lot of wiring diagrams online that did not indicate the year. One common theme was that the trailer lights worked through relays in that fuse block so the 7 way connector and wiring would not cause this kind of problem.
The 4 way flasher wiring path through the MFS (multifunction switch) was interesting. I wonder what you get with the flashers on and then operate the directionals, both with the key off and in the run position? (key on and off are 2 different fuses for the flashers)
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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03-02-2014, 04:26 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene
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If it does indeed have a flasher replace it with a heavy duty flasher that could well fix your problem provided the flasher is for the signals and not the 4 ways.
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03-11-2014, 04:05 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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I have finally been able to go to the dealership and have diagnostics done, a hundred dollars. Results are that the "smart junction box" is bad. Estimated repair costs are around a thousand dollars. Part is a little over $500. Also no explanation of cause or promise of a permanent solution.
My guess is still a water leak problem. I looked at the SJB but since I'm old and do not bend enuff to get a good view of it I could not determine water leaks on the box. I did look under the hood and saw a wireloomed bundle of wires going thru the firewall and can tell the grommet is not sealing tight to the loom. I will add something to that soon in hopes of sealing that leaking point. I will also have a windshield glass company give a price on resealing the glass and joints in the door posts. Other than that I'll drive with a fast flashing tail light and cross fingers that nothing else goes crazy. Just cannot afford a thousand dollars for what might be a temporary fix.
I have thought about getting a new vehicle but it seems they all have something going wrong. At least I haven't heard of a Expedition catching fire when just parked.
Thanks for the input and ideas of what may be the problem. I did check everything I could without success before springing for that hundred dollars out the window.
My suggestion to other Expedition owners is to keep an eye on your floor mats after washing the car or driving in heavy rain. I don't know about your vehicle but mine has no flashing between the wheel and the motor compartment to stop spray into the motor compartment. Also the drain down the front door post can leak to interior compartment electrical components under the dash such as gages. Combine that with sloppy seals around firewall seals and the interior gets wet and so do electrical components.
I do not know why everyone doesn't have problems but I do find a lot of people having them and dealerships are acting like they know nothing about leaks. this is something they know about but it has become a money maker for them so I do understand them acting ignorant about the problems. With potentially built in thousands of dollars per vehicle it pays them to act stoopid.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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03-11-2014, 06:17 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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What a bummer. This is the fuse/relay box on the passenger kickwall behind and below the glove box?
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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03-12-2014, 04:39 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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That is the one. The entry of water can come from different sources and so cause different problems. For instance, when it leaks on the driver's side it can cause dash gages to malfunction. The water leaking is a known Ford problem but nothing will be done because it is not considered a life threatening problem.
Edited to add: If you look at the roof of Ford products you will see a "rain gutter" groove along the edge. The groove is filled with plastic to smooth it visually. That groove will cause water to run down the front door post. There are some pieces of metal in the post that do not get sealed and this allows water to run inside the vehicle instead of keeping it outside the body compartment. Wires and hoses that come thru the firewall have grommets that should keep water out, but they do not all seal and will allow water inside and onto electric components. Instead of having the old hardwired system with fuses vehicles now have computer controlled switches. One function of the junction box is to sense voltage levels and then control electric flow accordingly. After water enters the box it makes the control think there is a burned out bulb and so causes a fast flash which is a warning sign for a bad bulb. All my bulbs are good, it is the controller that is bad and it is bad from shoddy body work and design that allows water to enter the inside compartment. If I fix it now and go thru a heavy rain tomorrow I could need to fix it again for another cost of a thousand dollars. Not good.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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03-12-2014, 06:23 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,126
SUN #4040
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It's to late for you but for other Expedition owners or people that want to seal entry holes with a non-hardening flexible putty. Duct seal works great. They use it allot around cable or electrical wires entering the house.
Gardner Bender Duct Seal Compound Plugs (10-Pack)-DS-110 at The Home Depot
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Jim and DW Darlene
2001 T-2553 Sunline Solaris
2006 GMC Sierra Duramax 2500HD 4X4
Firestone Transforce AT tires
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control
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03-12-2014, 06:05 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Eternabond for the roof .... of the tow veehicle.
Sorry, it isn't really a laughing matter. Many many years ago I had an Austin Healy Sprite and water would come in through those grommets in the firewall but then all you had to worry about was wet feet. No computers in the cars then.
Thanks for keeping us posted, it is something to keep in mind.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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03-13-2014, 03:54 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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I had thought about eternabond but it is not in blue.
I also thought about duct tape but not with that heat inside the motor compartment. Then the aluminum duct tape which I think will handle the heat. As for around the windshield I thought of throwing a rock to break glass and have insurance replace and reseal. :0
Seriously, I will use something around openings in the firewall and have a glass company reseal the windshield. I was looking at the engine compartment and noticed a lot of dirt on the motor so I want to add something to the wheel well that will help block tires splashing in the compartment. It seems that when Ford started cutting weight and costs they went a little overboard.
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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