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Old 09-04-2021, 05:35 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by flbradjr View Post
I took the upper cover cap off and the motor housing. Then I see two gears at 90 degrees to each other - which I greased before leaving home. You reference ACME or ball screw. How do I get to whichever one I have? Inside the jack post!!
Hi flbradj,

Sorry this took so long, I have been tied up. I hunted this morning for the pictures of when I had my Atwood jack all apart to grease the screw. I cannot figure out which year I did it in, thus I'm at a loss to finding the pics.

But I recall the basics of how the jack tube and screw came apart. You have to take the head of the jack apart. Yes, you will see the two bevel gears that make up the gear drive for the hand crank out the front. You need to remove the 2 bevel gears. If I recall right, the gear on top of the jack tube has a pin holding the gear to the center jack shaft. You remove that pin, this then allows the ACME screw or ball screw pending the jack you have, come out the bottom of the long jack tube. Then with the jack screw out in the open, you can cleanup the threads and grease it. This is where a lot of the drag comes from. This jack screw area is where all the lifting force comes from. When it gets dried out, dirt etc then the motor has to work harder to overcome all the friction.


To your next question about a jack replacement. I went through this about 3 years ago. Many of the power tongue jacks are made off shore now. Sadly, Atwood sold out like you said. I have a very heavy loaded camper tongue weight on our big T310SR and unless you have a good working jack, it is bad news hooking up a WD hitch.

I went with Barker Manufacturing. These guys https://www.barkermfg.com/power-jacks.html

They are one of the few, maybe now, only, USA made power tongue jack for camper use. In my case I got the Delux Hi Power 3500 jack due to the heavy tongue weight of my camper. I have bought 3 of them now since, for myself and other friends I was helping them with their camper. In my view, if you still want a USA made jack, you will not be disappointed with the quality and performance of any of their products. And they stand behind them if there is a warranty problem. They used to make a lot more smaller sizes, but I now only see the 3 listed ones. Here is a flyer on the 3 of them https://www.barkermfg.com/uploads/5/...hure_final.pdf

These jacks cost a little more, but in this case you get what you pay for. On your camper, the 3000 # rated one will work well. While your loaded tongued weight is not that high, when hooking up the WD hitch you have to lift the back of the truck too. You really cannot have too much jack power, too little yes and then the too small jack gets beat up when lifting the truck.

Shop around on price. The last Barker I bought about 2 months ago, the prices were all over the place. Some double... Covid has made the pricing on RV parts or most anything, nuts. I found a new Barker from an Ebay dealer for what things used to sell for on 2019 while other places were 2X

Hope this helps and let us know how you make out.

John

PS. Make or get some kind of cover, to cover the jack head when you are not towing. It keeps the sun and rain out of the jack head and prevents many ill effects. I use 2 1/2 gallon used plastic oil jug with the top cut out of it. It fits great. Others have made up a vinyl bag with a draw string on it.
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Old 09-04-2021, 03:03 PM   #22
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Hi JohnB
Atwood Heavy Duty 3500 24" power jack. Success!! All I needed was a larger ball peen hammer.
That knocked out the pin on the first bevel gear and I was off to the races. Your mention of pics should have clued me in to take my own set of pics during disassembly. Screw is greased and after a few false starts the jack is back in working order.
But I found water in the foot pad that connects to the jack base. Do folks drill a hole in the bottom of the foot pad to let the water out? I could put some duct tape around the top of the foot pad and replace it as needed. Your thoughts.
Thanks again for your excellent words of wisdom.
flbradjr
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Old 09-04-2021, 03:38 PM   #23
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Hi JohnB
Atwood Heavy Duty 3500 24" power jack. Success!! All I needed was a larger ball peen hammer.
That knocked out the pin on the first bevel gear and I was off to the races. Your mention of pics should have clued me in to take my own set of pics during disassembly. Screw is greased and after a few false starts the jack is back in working order.
But I found water in the foot pad that connects to the jack base. Do folks drill a hole in the bottom of the foot pad to let the water out? I could put some duct tape around the top of the foot pad and replace it as needed. Your thoughts.
Thanks again for your excellent words of wisdom.
flbradjr
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Old 09-04-2021, 06:06 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by flbradjr View Post
But I found water in the foot pad that connects to the jack base. Do folks drill a hole in the bottom of the foot pad to let the water out? I could put some duct tape around the top of the foot pad and replace it as needed.
Hi Brad,

Glad you got your jack all working. Good job!

Some of the jack feet have a hole in center of them and some don't across different brands I have seen.

I myself, would drill a hole in the side of the foot down where the post welds to the foot support plate to let the water out that collects in the lower tube. I say drill the side by the foot as then the drain hole is above the dirt line. If the hole was in the bottom, it can get stuffed with dirt. The hole being low means the puddle of water will not collect very high inside the tube. And pending the type of jack foot, some have a upwards bent dish that holds water. I drill a hole in dished foot area to let the water out that collects in the dish.

If you take the foot off to drill the hole in the foot, grease up the bottom of the post OD before putting the foot back on the post so it does not rust welded itself on over time.

I have helped several friends cut off the bottom of the jack tube as the foot rust welded itself to the post.

Thanks for the good words.

John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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Old 09-07-2021, 01:30 PM   #25
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Hi JohnB
Hole is drilled in foot pad, OD is greased - now all I need is rain - it's coming Wed pm.
Thanks Again flbradjr alias Brad
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