The Mysterious Wire/Fuse, Fridge Trouble-Shooting

Lena · 09-24-2022, 04:43 PM

Hello everyone, we are in the process of a total overhaul of our Sunline Solaris. The time has come to put the fridge back in and we are having a doozy of a time.

The fridge itself worked briefly when we first purchased the trailer, but shortly after the first time we turned it on it would no longer function. We decided to table the issue until later down the road when it was time to re-install it.. Fast-forward and the time has come. We're really hoping we can get it running as it would save us a substantial chunk of change.

The fridge model is:
1994/1995 Dometic RM 2622

Right now we are in the process of wiring up and testing the fridge. My partner just went out to get a voltage tester so that we can test the 12v wires to the lower control board to see if that is still getting electricity. I will continue to update as we delve further into this and learn more about what's going on.. But for now we have a big mystery on our hands and I was hoping someone here might recognize what we've found!!

The mysterious fuse/wire: There seems to be useless pigtails running to a fuse receptacle one from the hot, one from the neutral. However it is tied into the same wires that run to the refrigerator that are already tied directly to a hot and neutral. It seems like it was there from the factory. And as we figured, when we put a fuse in, no matter what size, it pops.. Because it's basically just electricity going in a loop for no reason.

The picture is from inside of the fridge box. The wire runs out from the left side and goes over the wheel well, it's about 2ft long and ends in a fuse.

Please let me know if you guys need more pictures. Hopefully someone can help us sort this out! It's super strange.

Lena · 09-24-2022, 07:14 PM

[IMG]blob:https://imgur.com/02e42b61-f78a-4856-bb31-f201c66678b3[/IMG]

Here is the fuse at the end of the wire.

Lena · 09-24-2022, 07:36 PM

Update: We just realized this mysterious wire may have something to do with a battery.. Perhaps for use while the fridge is running on propane?

**JohnB** · 09-24-2022, 09:52 PM

Hi Leana,

Just checking, you stated your fridge was a RM2622, is that correct? I cannot find a service manual on the RM 2622. I can find a RM2620 and a RM 2621, or RM2652 pending a typo at the 3rd number. Please confirm, it is possible your number is correct and I just cannot find the service manual for it.

We cannot see the fuse at the end of the wire in post #2, that link you posted does not work. Your pic does work in the post #1.

We need some more to go on with the mystery wire. I'm going out on a limb which fridge you have, take a pic the back side down at the bottom where the gas line and wires hook up. and on the front where the controls are at. From pics we can tell a lot. Your fridge should have a 12 volt pos and negative going to it. And that mystery wire shows up on the burner side of the fridge, which really is not normal as that area is hot by the gas burner and stack. But maybe in 1993 maybe Sunline did it that way OR a prior owner ran something there? Not sure just yet.

We need some more pics to help better on the wire.

On the fridge, tell us what is not working? We need something more to go on. Does the control panel light up? does the light bulb inside work? Does it just not cool? and if so how long did you wait for it to get cool? Or you trying to run it on gas or 120V electric?

What changed that you recall from when it did work, until now when it does not? We see the fridge out on the ground. That means it was moved, was it in the camper when it worked and then outside and not working when a temporary hook up was made? And if you are testing it out of the camper, show us how you have it hooked up.

Hope this helps

John

**JohnB** · 09-25-2022, 04:41 AM

Leana,

In case you need help posting pics,

There are 3 ways to add pics.

1. Upload pics to a specific post attaching them at the end of the post.

2. Linking them in from a public viewable web photo hosting service you have.

See here for 1 and 2 https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post86041

3. You can upload pics to the forum in your own personal photo album. Then link them to anywhere in the text of a post. See here on how to create an album. https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...html#post87945

If you still get stuck, let us know. Pic's go a long way in helping show things you are working on, and we really like seeing Sunline pics!

Hope this helps

John

Torskdoc423 · 09-29-2022, 07:08 PM

That dual wire is in typical location for 12VDC wiring for Dometic Fridges. My T2563 with a RM-2652 and my 94 innsbruck with a RM-2611 are wired essentially the same. 12VDC is used to power the Control board in 120VAC and GAS mode. No 12V, no Fridge.

The BLACK Wire should be the 12VDC POSITIVE, while the White wire should be the ground (either back to the battery or frame ground). Do a hand over hand inspection of both leads for sheath rubbing to bare wire or critter chewing to bare wire. Repair or replace as necessary. Crimp lugs with Marine grade Heatshrink tubing over joints will ensure a water resistant splice (corrosion of wiring is BAD!). Once you get all the bad spots fixed, ohm the BLACK LEAD at both ends to the frame. You should get an open circuit ("O/L" on the meter is GOOD!, No Shorts). Anything other than a Open circuit will need additional tracing/troubleshooting.

The White wire should show continuity <2-3Ω from bare end to the battery NEG Term.

These go on the 4 way square terminal strip on the fridge base. Numbered 1 thru 4 as shown below.

1.) = RED to 12v on board
2.) = Black to Refrigerator frame Ground
3.) = BLACK Trailer 12VDC Lead from Battery (Should go to the Fuse block then battery.

4.) = WHITE TRAILER GROUND LEAD.

Larry

Torskdoc423 · 09-29-2022, 07:23 PM

If you find the control board is bad, a Dinosaur board is a better board than the original Dometic board. It's literally plug and play. There are also thermistor replacements that are more adjustable (not just on the board.) Add a couple of 4" computer fans on the back to blow up (between the lower and upper coils, wire it up with a switch. These will help a lot in HOT weather. There are kits for the fans, and the thermistor online.