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04-06-2011, 04:14 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 63
SUN #1458
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Replacing the trim that covers screws on storage doors
I need to replace the trim insert that covers the screws on the storage doors. A local RV dealer claims that the original was rubber & can no longer get it as it was a "Sunny" product. He also claims that I cant use the vinyl because it will not bend around the corners. Has anyone used the vinyl & a heat gun to make it flexible enough?
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Matt & Ginny
2004 Sunline Solaris 264SR
2008 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ 4x4 6.0L
HD Tow Package\Integrated Brake Ctrl
3.73 LS Rear
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04-06-2011, 04:48 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matti
I need to replace the trim insert that covers the screws on the storage doors. A local RV dealer claims that the original was rubber & can no longer get it as it was a "Sunny" product. He also claims that I cant use the vinyl because it will not bend around the corners. Has anyone used the vinyl & a heat gun to make it flexible enough?
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Yes.
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ht=trim+screws
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ht=trim+screws
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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04-06-2011, 09:26 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Matt
Mine in 2004 are vinyl. And they go right around the corner. Use a heat gun, hair dryer or better yet, stick the roll in a bucket of real hot water. Then take it out and use it as you need. When warm the stuff is super plyable. Just do not over heat it with the heat gun. Fan the gun or you will melt it.
You can see the vinyl around this cargo door. I had this entire door and flange out when I redid my slide floor. See the screws in the corners to hold it in. That was direct from Sunline that way as I'm sure your is too.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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04-07-2011, 04:44 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,279
SUN #1830
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John, Thanks for the pic. I see the screws at the ends of the cover strip also. Good ideas all. What kind of screws are used? The self drilling ones or regular sheetmetal screws that need a predrilled hole?
jim
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Beverly & Jim
Sebring, Florida
1991 T-2363 Solaris
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04-07-2011, 06:46 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Mine in 2004 are vinyl. And they go right around the corner. Use a heat gun, hair dryer or better yet, stick the roll in a bucket of real hot water. Then take it out and use it as you need. When warm the stuff is super plyable. Just do not over heat it with the heat gun. Fan the gun or you will melt it.
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One other tip is not to stretch the material when it is warm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363
John, Thanks for the pic. I see the screws at the ends of the cover strip also. Good ideas all. What kind of screws are used? The self drilling ones or regular sheetmetal screws that need a predrilled hole?
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It the holes are already there when replacing the vinyl trim and the screws are in good shape, re-use them. If they are not present, my preference is to drill a pilot hole regardless of what type of screw used. That way I am assured that the screw is going to go where I want it to be.
You can buy screws that are already painted white to match the trim. My preference is hex head so that I can use a 1/4" socket on a drill-driver to run them in.
Since there is no bi-metal corrosion issue in replacing these particular screws, aluminum screws would be ideally suited for this application. Using aluminum screws pretty much always requires drilling a pilot hole.
One other thought.... If the existing screws are corroded along the threads, I would use one size larger, but the same length. That's provided that there is no rotted wood there.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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04-07-2011, 07:52 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 351
SUN #549
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I just went through this last Saturday on the build project.
As stated above, the vinyl will do the job just fine, provided you warm it up. We had better luck with the heat gun than the hot water, but YMMV. In my case, we had two sets of hands - I kept the stuff warm with the heat gun and my brother worked it into the channel. I think the entry door took all of 5 minutes.
As Steve mentioned, it's very important you don't stretch it or it will pull out of the channel within a few weeks (if not a few minutes).
Watch your vinyl strip width. There's two common widths, 3/4" and 1" as I recall. On the project, the cargo doors needed the narrow stuff, but the entry door needed the wider stuff (as did the corner moldings). Your needs will depend on who made the door.
A tip on those corner screws. First, predrill the holes. Then, predrill the door frame and the siding (but NOT the wood below it) with a bit large enough to clear the screw. I have a short stress crack starting in the siding on my 2363, and the start of that crack is (of course) the corner screw on the entry door. The manufacturers don't predrill anything, they just run the things in with an air gun.
- Frank
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04-07-2011, 10:46 AM
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#7
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Yes, I forgot to mention, do not stretch the vinyl when warmed up.... Good catch Steve and Frank. Long thin plastic can have issues with 8 feet long and 100 degree change in temp. Just look at vinyl sideing on ones house... Don't pound those nails in tight...
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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04-07-2011, 10:53 AM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363
John, Thanks for the pic. I see the screws at the ends of the cover strip also. Good ideas all. What kind of screws are used? The self drilling ones or regular sheetmetal screws that need a predrilled hole?
jim
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Jim
Sunline used the same screws they used to hold the metal flange to the camper. In our campers case they are white headed, steel plated screws. I know they are steel as the rust streaks start showing up. Little by little I keep replacing the exposed screws with stainless. The windows hinges and other parts seem to be the worst. And they are different screws then Sunline used to hold the flanges down as they came from who ever made the windows. I have not yet had any rust on the exposed vinyl but have had heads rust under the vinyl. If the water cannot get out, the corrosion festers faster. Out in the open they air dry quicker and it seems to slow down the eventual death of the screw from rust
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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04-07-2011, 02:41 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank
... I have a short stress crack starting in the siding on my 2363, and the start of that crack is (of course) the corner screw on the entry door....
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Does it look like this?
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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04-07-2011, 07:05 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 351
SUN #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene
Does it look like this?
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Gene, if the siding was dirty I'd think you snuck a picture of my door
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04-08-2011, 08:18 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 663
SUN #597
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Here's an old post for fixing siding cracks. I would think it's applicable here too as it's the same kind of radius corner crack. Maybe someone who still has a trailer with this repair could comment on its longevity/permanence?
Henry
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2019 F150 3.5L Max Tow
2014 Arctic Fox 22G
2005 Sunline T-2499
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04-08-2011, 06:58 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,515
SUN #768
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Thanks Henry. That picture was from last Spring. I drilled a 1/8" hole at the end and filled it with Liquid Nails which was a bit ugly but the scar reminds me to check it often. I only used Liquid Nails because it was what I had at the moment.
Sorry for getting off topic here.
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Gene & DW Ginny
2002 Sunline T-2363
2008 Toyota 4-runner 4wd 4.7L V-8
Reese Dual Cam straightline - P3 Brake controller
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