Propane tank, bad valve?

jpspaz · 04-09-2009, 04:15 PM

The valve on the top of one of my tanks seems to have a leak. When I open the valve, I turn it until it's all the way open. About halfway through cranking it open, a small amount of gas leaks out. You can hear and smell it. Its just for a quick second then stops. When I tighten the valve, I don't hear it. Any suggestions?

pwb01 · 04-09-2009, 05:22 PM

If it's not leaking while hooked up, (check the connection with soapy water) use it until it's empty then swap it out. Let them know about it and they'll repair or replace it before re-filling for the next swap.

Al in PA · 04-09-2009, 05:34 PM

Around here, the exchange tanks are usually beat up with a quickie paint job to make them look presentable. If you want to keep a nice, matching set that came with your coach, you can get the valve unit replaced and have the tank recertified at one of the larger propane dealers (like those who make home deliveries and supply large capacity tanks).

jpspaz · 04-09-2009, 07:09 PM

Wouldn't it be easier to just buy a new tank than go through the trouble of having the valve replaced?

**JohnB** · 04-09-2009, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpspaz

The valve on the top of one of my tanks seems to have a leak. When I open the valve, I turn it until it's all the way open. About halfway through cranking it open, a small amount of gas leaks out. You can hear and smell it. Its just for a quick second then stops. When I tighten the valve, I don't hear it. Any suggestions?

What it sounds like is the seal on the valve stem is going. When you open the valve, gas is exposed to the seal in the stem and if that seal leaks, then gas will escape. When you close the valve, the bottom of the valve stem works on a different seat and seals off the tank pressure. The valve stem leak will eventually stop once the gas pressure escapes up in the top part of the valve.

That vale stem seal I do not believe is serviceable. Like Al said, they can install a new valve in your tank if your tank is in good shape.

Hope this helps

John

**Sunline Fan** · 04-09-2009, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpspaz

The valve on the top of one of my tanks seems to have a leak. When I open the valve, I turn it until it's all the way open. About halfway through cranking it open, a small amount of gas leaks out. You can hear and smell it. Its just for a quick second then stops. When I tighten the valve, I don't hear it. Any suggestions?

Not that it's at all related to the post, but something doesn't add up in your signature. To the best of my knowledge the 267SR was only built through 2005, and then the 276SR replaced it for 2006 and 2007.

Jon

Steve Collins · 04-09-2009, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpspaz

Wouldn't it be easier to just buy a new tank than go through the trouble of having the valve replaced?

A new OPD valve is about $13 for a 20 pounder. If the tank's certification hasn't expired and won't for a few years, it is probably a little less expensive to replace the valve now.

On the other hand, if the tank's certification is about to expire, recertification plus the cost of a new valve would likely be at least the same cost as a new tank. BJ's here has new ones for around $28 empty.

Original certification on a tank is good for 12 years from the date stamped on the collar around the valve. I believe recerts are good for at least 5 years after which the tank needs to be recertified again.

On the other hand, the price of a new 30 pounder (or bigger) is much higher than the 20's. It may be much more economical to replace a valve and recertify than to purchase a new 30. YMMV.

Al in PA · 04-09-2009, 07:21 PM

I was referring to keeping a matched set. When I bought a replacement tank a few years ago, it ended up being slightly taller than the orginal tanks that came on the Sunline: This required purchasing a longer threaded rod to accommodate the tank. Due to the height difference of the two tanks, I was never able to secure them evenly. The only good thing about the government's requirement to replace tanks with the new style valves was that I ended up purchasing a matched set of tanks that solved the mounting problem.

jpspaz · 04-14-2009, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunline Fan

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpspaz

The valve on the top of one of my tanks seems to have a leak. When I open the valve, I turn it until it's all the way open. About halfway through cranking it open, a small amount of gas leaks out. You can hear and smell it. Its just for a quick second then stops. When I tighten the valve, I don't hear it. Any suggestions?

Not that it's at all related to the post, but something doesn't add up in your signature. To the best of my knowledge the 267SR was only built through 2005, and then the 276SR replaced it for 2006 and 2007.

Jon

All I can tell you is that it's definitely a 267 and we were told it was a 2006 when we purchased it new. It's registered as an 06 and I can only assume the title says the same or the DMV wouldn't put 06 on the registration. I'd have to dig out the title to be sure.

**Sunline Fan** · 04-14-2009, 07:46 AM

On occasion dealers do try to sell and title units from a newer year than they actually are. In some states, this is easy to do with new units.

The VIN is the only way to tell for sure:

If it's an '05 267SR, the VIN would look like: 1LC2S2M2_5D27_ _ _ _

If it's an '06 267SR, the VIN would look like: 1LC2S2M2_6D27_ _ _ _

If it's an '06 276SR, the VIN would look like: 1LC2S2N2_6D28_ _ _ _

Jon