'94 T1700 frig question-level question

[harbortj]

main level on front of trailer was found to stick on arrival of first trip
frig maintained 40 degrees.
didn't realize the significance of it being level until later.


I used the available level (front to back) and used a 1 3/8 socket (rolled it on the floor) to guesstimate level side to side.
I have ordered a new level to replace the broken one.

Now to the question.

I have a 4' level but should I match this to the frig's level , the I beams underneath, or the V at the hitch or the floor?

If I am to level the trailer to the floor or I beams, is the frig adjustable so I can match it to make it more efficient?

[henryj]

RV fridges should be level when parked because sodium chromate, added to the coolant, will crystallize and block the tubes, but only while the fridge is operating. This situation is not reversible.

http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm

When driving, normal bouncing keeps things moving--or, if weather and distance permit, don't run the fridge at all while driving.

There is a line somewhere in the owner's manual that a fridge is ok if you can walk around inside the camper without noticing an out of level situation. I don't obsess over being level and just use a short, but good quality, torpedo level on the floor just inside the door. The 2499 also has a swinging bathroom door that is a dead giveaway about an out of level situation. I use the level more to help decide which side stabilizers to put down first--the low side.

Cabinetry is not always level and I suppose a floor may not be either, so where you measure depends on how much difference you might notice by taking a couple of shots. As I said above, in practice I really don't think it will matter as long as the trailer "looks and feels level."

Henry

[Steve Collins]

Somewhere in the distant past, I recall reading that the floor of the freezer (if your fridge has one) is the best place to measure level.

I keep one of those little circular RV levels in the freezer year 'round. And I carry a torpedo level, too.

Luckily, our trailer is pretty consistent so the levelness of the floor pretty much matches the fridge. Like henryj, I place the torpedo on the floor just inside the front door.

[harbortj]

Well,

After our first trip, I unpluged the electrical cord and pulled it home. I parked it where I can (not very level) and thought I did a thorough job of getting the camper stowed away including re-charging the battery and leaving the frig door cracked open.

I was under the impression, that the battery only runs the lights and radio.
thought I read it somewhere but can't re-find the info.

I got to reading here about frig info and got to wondering if I screwed up.
I went outside last night and checked the battery- 6.0.

I don't know if the frig killed it as I left the knobs on the frig in on position.
(I didn't think it mattered -back to thinking they were not connected0

I recharged the battery and nothing worked. Found the wing nut on the pos cable was loose. tightened it up and lights work.

should I be worried about the frig?
can I check to see if the frig and battery are connected without having to level the camper and wait 24 hours?

please advise.

[Honda03842]

I'm sure your refigerator uses 12 volts. Every gas refrigerator I've seen has a controller board that use 12 volts but I'd be surprised that it would draw the battery down that quickly. The controller board contains an igniter circuit for the propane among other functions.

Now there are refrigerators that run on 110VAC, 12 DC or Propane but I doubt you have one.I suspect yours is 110 VAC and Propane only.

Of course leaving the refrige door open and it in the on position, the refrige tried to stay cool, running continuously.

I know many don't do it, but I leave my rig plugged in continuously when I park it in the yard. I think most devices work better when they're continuously exercised. It also takes very little power plus it's always ready to go.

It takes a while to fully charge a battery. Measuring it with the power on tells very little about the state of the charge.

As to level, it's relatively easy to get close enough. Level front to rear can usually be managed with the front tongue jack. From side to side we carry a couple of one foot 2x6s. We begin by checking the side to side levelness before disconnecting. If it's off we put a 2x6 in front of a tire and pull it on to the 2x6. Rarely we use 2 pieces of 2x6 offset from each other. The 2x6s are cut with a bevel on the leading edge.