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Old 02-11-2011, 12:29 PM   #1
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120 Volt issue - now solved

For those of you that have not yet had a 120 volt (partial) outage this info may help. Funny the way they wired these units!

My fridg started to defrost and found that all 120 volt electric in the back half of this TT (2263) was out...kaput! After an hour of tracing with a volt meter the culpret emerged. The GFCI receptical in the bathroom had reset to off, for unknown reasons, and took the remainder of that curcuit out.

Two ways to wire a GFCI. One only protects that one receptical. The other protects all recepticals, and other wiring, past that point in a wiring run. Guess what Sunline did in this unit? Yup method two. So now I know what to look for first in the future

Hope this helps some others.


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Old 02-11-2011, 06:34 PM   #2
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Hi Clark

Good info. What year is your coach?

I know at least in 2004 Sunline put the fridge on a non GFI circuit most likely for the reason you found. Never thought they would put it on one. But since the rear area is exposed to moisture maybe they thought that would be an OK idea. But your right from time to time the GFI's do trip and with a fridge full of food that can be a problem if you do not have the propane turned on.

You can see here on our one and only Sunline wiring diagram. I requested this from Sunline when they where still in business. This is from a 2004 T2499

Sunline Coach Owner's Club - Sunline Owner's Files - Sunline Solaris T-2499 Wiring Diagram

Thanks for passing along so others are aware


Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:58 PM   #3
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Clark, you can get some comfort in knowing you are not the first to find out the hard way about the GFI causing other outlets to not work ... and you will not be the last!!

It took me a while to figure out that my outside outlet didn't work because the bathroom GFI was tripped.

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Old 02-13-2011, 09:00 PM   #4
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Thanks John and Gene. My 2263 TT is a 1985 model so the 2004 diagram is not much use to me. I have traced my curcuits the hard way with a volt meter and turning on one breaker at a time. I'm not able to post a drawing of these curcuits but will describe for others that may run into the problems I did.

The 30 amp input black(hot) wire is attached to the output side of a 30 amp breaker which provides power to other breakers. (backwards from house wiring but it works. Functions like a master switch) This sends the current to common lugs that the other three(2- 20 amp and 1- 15 amp) breakers use.

The white wire is attached to a common, but insulated, bar along with the white wires of the other three curcuits, and must not be grounded.

The ground wire is connected to a common grounding bar along with the ground wire of the other three curcuits.

The 15 amp breaker feeds only the 120V to 15V converter. One 20 amp breaker feeds the GFCI in the bathroom which is wired to protect all wiring beyond the GFCI receptical. This includes all 120 outlets in the bedroom plus all outside outlets AND the refridg!!!

The other 20 amp breaker serves all front room outlets.

I was lucky to have been around and checked the fridg before food had fully defrosted.

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Old 02-14-2011, 06:00 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by frodothree View Post
Two ways to wire a GFCI. One only protects that one receptical. The other protects all recepticals, and other wiring, past that point in a wiring run.
If you purchase a GFI outlet and look at the installation instructions, you'll note that the way Sunline did it is industry standard and required by electrical codes in most states. (as here in Va.)

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