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05-04-2011, 07:27 AM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 31
SUN #2085
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Most of the side decals on my Que are in good shape. The only decal that has peeled edges is on the front window cover. It is exposes to the suns rays because of the angle of the window cover. I also don"t know the value of decals.
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05-04-2011, 07:42 AM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 31
SUN #2085
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Rotted floor
Yesterday I installed 1/2 inch pressure treated plywood under the TT floor and drilled and screwed the plywood to the aluminum floor joists with hardened screw fasteners. I then cut and mig welded steel L channel as an under frame support between the aluminum joists. I also plan on gluing a 1/4 inch layer of luana plywood to the top of the floor using a pneumatic staple gun to hold the two layers together until the glue dries. The floor is already firm instead of spongy on the inside of the TT. It has been raining and I have noticed some water infiltration, since the dehumidifier dried the plywood floor out nicely. I believe water is entering through the horizontal seam in the front of the TT that is covered up with a vinyl trim piece. I plan on using a metal putty knife to pull back the vinyl trim piece and inject a bead on white silicone caulk to reseal the joint. I also replaced both roof vent covers due to cracking.
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05-04-2011, 08:25 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulo
I believe water is entering through the horizontal seam in the front of the TT that is covered up with a vinyl trim piece. I plan on using a metal putty knife to pull back the vinyl trim piece and inject a bead on white silicone caulk to reseal the joint. I also replaced both roof vent covers due to cracking.
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If you use caulk on the joint between the trim and the skin of the tt, use butyl caulk. Most other caulks will either harden or not stick to the trim or the skin.
If completely replacing exterior items like the vents, it is best to use 1" wide butyl putty tape.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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05-04-2011, 11:14 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 18
SUN #635
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I'm not sure which decal you have on the front. If you can post a picture, I'll see if I have it. If I do, we can work out what it's worth.
Good luck!
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Dave, the guy with the decals- swoops and logos for Solaris and Advancer other.
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05-04-2011, 12:15 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 31
SUN #2085
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Steve-will a 100% silicone caulk work or only butyl caulk?
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05-04-2011, 12:38 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 2,909
SUN #93
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Paulo....the "gut feeling" is to use the butyl caulk......even my RV dealer does not like the silicone caulk.
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Kathy & Leo SUN 093
Central Adirondacks of New York
2013 Rubicon 2900 Toy Hauler
We loved our 2007 T-2499
2010 Ford F-350 4x4 Lariat Super Crew Dually Diesel
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05-04-2011, 12:48 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulo
Steve-will a 100% silicone caulk work or only butyl caulk?
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Over time, silicone will lose its adhesion qualities. I had all kinds of problems after caulking a log home with silicone. Most other caulks will either crack or harden or both over a fairly short period of time.
Butyl in both the putty tape and in caulk is the right stuff for exterior use on TT's.
The only exception is dealing with the rubber membrane roofing systems. There the Dicor caulk is pretty much mandatory with the self-leveling being preferable for horizontal sealing on the surface of joints. The regular stuff should be used where "body" is needed as the self-leveling will squeeze out of joints to the point that there is no sealant left where it is needed.
There are other discussions of the merits of butyl here - just search on it as a keyword.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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05-05-2011, 05:40 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 31
SUN #2085
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rotted floor
I located a hardware store that sells Dap 27062 Butyl-Flex Gutter and Flashing caulk. Is this the right stuff to use? I also read that warming the caulk tube in warm water for 20 minutes helps with the application of the caulk. Anyone use that method? Thanks
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05-05-2011, 05:54 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulo
I located a hardware store that sells Dap 27062 Butyl-Flex Gutter and Flashing caulk. Is this the right stuff to use? I also read that warming the caulk tube in warm water for 20 minutes helps with the application of the caulk. Anyone use that method? Thanks
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That should do the trick just fine.
Warming works for caulk real well. Just be careful not to get it too warm as it will run on vertical applications or squeeze out too much on any application where two surfaces are pressed together. You want a certain amount of body to remain in the joint.
If you read over some of the posts in Repairs and Maintenance, warming is also a great technique for loosening the putty tape around vents, windows, doors, etc. A heat gun used carefully on Low heat works best, but a hair dryer on high will get the job done, too.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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05-13-2011, 12:52 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 31
SUN #2085
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update
Well I used the Butyl caulk over all the seams on the four sides of the Que. I finished repairing the floor and installed a no glue vinyl flooring using Rhino tape. Noticed some air pockets when done and used two hair dryers to soften the flooring so that I could push the air out. I then removed both wheels to inspect the brake shoes for wear/clean with compressed air/and lubricate the wheel bearing fitting using a grease gun.Used Rustoleum gloss black paint on the under frame members and axle. On a flat and level surface made the adjustment to the tow ball height and weight distribution bars, so that the Que will tow level and the tow vehicle will also stay level to its original stance. Adjusted the electronic brake control unit. Installed an auxillary wire to the 7 pin receptical. Am looking foward to stocking the Que for camping and the maiden voyage. Any suggestions as a list of things to bring? I'm sure some seasoned Que travelers found items to bring on their next trip. Thanks
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05-17-2011, 10:46 AM
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#31
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,658
SUN #89
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Well it looks like your ready to roll. Great!!
For what to bring...... Don't worry if you forget something as the 1st time you are becoming a rolling coach type of camper you will be remembering something for the 1st year after each trip. Then come the 3rd year you start taking stuff back out as you never used it...
At least that was how it was when we started RV camping using a pop up. My 50# Backpack had everything I needed in it but the PU, well the more room you have the more stuff your bring. When we moved from the PU to our 1st TT, A T2499, well after we moved all the PU gear the thing was ½ empty. Well….over time we filled that too… Now we have 9,000# of camper and stuff … I’m afraid to even think about going to a 5th wheel…
If you forget that "something" odds are good your neighbor in the campground will gladly let you borrow theirs and you can find you gained a new friend in the process.
Good luck and happy camping
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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05-18-2011, 08:39 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,131
SUN #64
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Quote:
Any suggestions as a list of things to bring?
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Besides your clothing, cooking gear, and food, you'll need some basics for trailer setup:
1. Potable Water Hose (the white one) for city hookup.
2. Sewer Hose W/ clear 45 deg. connector @ trailer (let's you see how things are progressing ).
3. Some type of leveling gear. I use Lynx Levelers, these lego block type plastic blocks are light, easy to store, and very versatile. You can also use pieces of 2x6. You'll need some for under the tires and as pads for the jacks. I also have a piece of landscaping timber I use under the tongue jack to get extra lift for hitching.
4. Some type of Wheel Chocks. I have two types, ones that work with the Lynx levelers, i.e. the chock clips on to the leveler block providing a stop when you need to back onto the blocks to level. Not applicable to a single axle trailer, but I also have a set of BAL chocks that clamp between the tires and take a lot of "wiggle" out of the trailer when set-up.
Like JOHNB said you'll find lots of "stuff" but the above items are pretty much must haves.
Mack
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2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Club Cab 4x4 CTD
2007 Sunline Solaris T-276-SR: Misty Blue/Cherry
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Reg Cab 4x4 OFF-ROAD
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06-21-2011, 12:12 PM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 7
SUN #1981
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Hi Paulo,
We are new Que owners as well. Sounds like quite a project...we would love to see photos...should we need to understand the floor construction later. Also, you mentioned a quick connect and bbq mount. Could you post a photo of that as well? I would love to hook something like that up.
Thanks,
Bonnie
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06-21-2011, 01:41 PM
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#34
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 31
SUN #2085
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On page #1 of this thread there are pictures that I took of the floor with the pedistal table floor mount bracket removed. In that picture you can see the vinyl flooring-plywood-styrofoam-and finally more plywood. What you don't see is the welded aluminum framing of the floor itself. You can feel the aluminum framing if you step on your floor and notice spots that are firmer than others. Also, the trailer steel framing runs under the welded aluminum framing of the floor. Those were the only pictures that I took of the project. The trailer has propane gas lines that run down the right side of the Que and there was a fitting similar to a compressed air fitting you would find in a auto repair shop. Above that fitting was a decal on the side of the Que that said propane gas fitting. It is a quick connect or disconnect fitting that you can hook up a propane gas outdoor cooking grill, if you prefer to cook outside the Que. If your Que does not have that fitting, a hardware store should be able to provide the parts you need to connect one. I believe that the main propane gas line feeds the refrigerator in the rear of the Que, and you are basically tieing into that line. The best thing you can do to prevent water penitration is to chaulk all of your outside seams with Butyl caulk (roof takes another type of self leveling caulk) and inspect and caulk the black plastic wheel well skirts where other Que owners have found air gaps that allow water in, when towing in the rain. I really like our Que and I hope you like yours too.
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