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05-20-2007, 08:09 PM
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#1
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,289
SUN #17
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Raised the sofa 2 inches
Well, one more project almost completed. I have managed to raise the sofa 2 inches, and created an easier way to attach and remove it should I need to gain access to the water heater or furnace that are located under the sofa. Gaining access to the water heater is what STARTED this whole project. I still have some stuff to finish but it's pretty well underway.
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Anyone got any other suggestions?
Kitty[/img]
__________________
__________________
Sunny #18 2003 F-344SR #8157
Sunny #19 1997 T-2653 #5485
1999 Ford F350XLT DRW Crew Cab, Long bed 7.3 PSD
2002 VW Jetta TDI.. AKA: Kitty's Kruiser
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05-20-2007, 09:19 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,656
SUN #89
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Kitty
Looking good. At first I could not figure out what you where up to, but then it clicked by the time I viewed a few more pic’s.
You are using the lock hasps as a quick way to, unclick, and yank the whole thing out of there in a flash... WOW COOL!!!
The hasps will for sure keep the couch from popping up. No problem that I see.
Now to your question on any other adders. Can’t tell from here, but see if this fits.
If there is any front to back movement that is a problem, meaning the couch can slide out towards the outside door, then I have one method of an easy adder to help that.
Which would be.
Add 1 or 2 on each side. A metal stud with wood lag screw thread on one end and normal bolt threads on the other end. Shoot for like a 5/16” or 3/8” Large enough to use and not bend so easy.
Basically you screw the lag screw end of the stud in the lower fixed 2 x 4 and then the normal screw thread part sticks up. THEN drill a clearance hole in the wood part above that lifts off. To make the holes all line up. Use a pilot drill between both boards then open them up.
The top 2 x 4 that is attached to the couch part then just rests down over the studs sticking up and cannot slide around in any direction but up. The hasps hold it down the studs keep it from sliding around.
They sell them in the Home Depot or any hardware store. To screw them in, just tighten 2 nuts against each other and the use a wrench on it to screw in the wood screw part. Then take the nuts back off.
I can pop a pic of one of the studs if needed. I have some smaller ones in the shed.
I would say it is a judgment call if you need to add the studs. They would only be needed if the couch slides around on you. The hasps have some wiggle in them but don’t know again from here how much wiggle.
Thank you for posting. I have not reworked my area yet for easy access but will soon and I'll be adding the quick lift off couch. I never thought of that.
The great part of this site is just getting the ideas. Most can implement some version of it, key is coming up with the idea it self.
Good work and good job.
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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05-21-2007, 05:26 AM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,289
SUN #17
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Morning John,
Well, let me tell you, wrestling that sofa around by myself was quite a job, but I got it done. Thank you for the compliments. I know they type of screws you are talking about. I'll keep an eye on the sofa for movement to determine "if" I need to do that. OH, and is it nice sitting on the sofa now, plus I think it is now at a better height in relationship to the table.
I "Still" need to do the drain for the water heater drip pan, kinda really thinking on that BEFORE I drill a hole thru the floor, and make a hole in the black stuff covering the underside of Sunny, don't need to make any "OOPS
I am going to cut a small maybe 9" x 9" square hole in the lower wood panel under the sofa, and create a door there for access to the W/H bypass valve so I won't have to lift up the sofa at all. Plus that would allow me to see the position of the valve.
Kitty
__________________
Sunny #18 2003 F-344SR #8157
Sunny #19 1997 T-2653 #5485
1999 Ford F350XLT DRW Crew Cab, Long bed 7.3 PSD
2002 VW Jetta TDI.. AKA: Kitty's Kruiser
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05-21-2007, 08:44 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Hey Kitty,
Looks good! Hopefully you won't have to rip the couch out in a hurry when the whole coach is filling with water!
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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05-22-2007, 05:51 AM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 1,920
SUN #98
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Great job Kitty!
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Mary & Tom (aka Hutch)
2015 Jayco Eagle Premier 361REQS
2014 GMC Sierra 3500HD 4x4 CC D/A
Sunlines: 2005 Solaris T-280SR; 1999 Solaris T-2670; 1998 Saturn T-24A
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05-22-2007, 06:02 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 2,909
SUN #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
I am going to cut a small maybe 9" x 9" square hole in the lower wood panel under the sofa, and create a door there for access to the W/H bypass valve so I won't have to lift up the sofa at all. Plus that would allow me to see the position of the valve.
Kitty
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Kitty are you saying that you need to take the sofa out each time you use the W/H bypass valve?
I have noticed some "changes" in our 07 T2499 v.s. our 06 T1950! But that just sound DUMB!
For example, the 12 Volt ceiling lights only have one witch not two, so a double bright light comes on when you may only need one!
In the batroom - I don't remember seing raw wood above the shower in the sunlight area - in this one you can definately see it.
The stereo/cd player is definately a downgrade from what was in the '06 - not that we are "stereo" people, just a noticable change.
Well I'm sorry I don't want to hi-jack this post....I'll post some changes on another post later!
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Kathy & Leo SUN 093
Central Adirondacks of New York
2013 Rubicon 2900 Toy Hauler
We loved our 2007 T-2499
2010 Ford F-350 4x4 Lariat Super Crew Dually Diesel
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05-22-2007, 09:10 AM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,289
SUN #17
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Hi Kathy,
No, I didn't have to remove the sofa to access the bypass switch, BUT I did have to lift the sofa, then the piece of luan so that I could reach in to turn the lever. So I plan to make an access door!
Raising the sofa was the result of me having it removed to replace the electric element in the WH. I removed it for easier access to the WH (that element is RIGHT DOWN on the floor), and then had visions of tools dancing in my head "How can I do this easier"? SO, I raised the sofa and made it pretty easy to unlatch and remove. Did this cause ya never know when I'll need access to the WH again !!
I will have to check out the shower skylight, my stereo is a voyager (I did have to put a piece of black tape over the remote sensor)
My double lights have two switches.
Kitty
__________________
__________________
Sunny #18 2003 F-344SR #8157
Sunny #19 1997 T-2653 #5485
1999 Ford F350XLT DRW Crew Cab, Long bed 7.3 PSD
2002 VW Jetta TDI.. AKA: Kitty's Kruiser
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