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Old 03-21-2009, 12:43 PM   #1
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Adding some Insulation

Yeah, the spirit moved me and I started to add some additional insulation to Sunny. I am putting that foam pipe insulation on all the interior pipes that I can get to (even under stove, sink, and going to see if I can get under shower stall). Then I am adding some insulation around the walls(under the sofa, beds where the is no real storage access), in/over the wheel wells, ya know, just about anywhere I can get to that could use a little more cold protection. Here is some of my progress:






I do have a question, can I put insulation over the heater ?

Kitty
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Old 03-21-2009, 09:24 PM   #2
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Re: Adding some Insulation

Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
Yeah, the spirit moved me

http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/42400/2869215050044476533S500x500Q85.jpg[/img]

I do have a question, can I put insulation over the heater ?

Kitty
Gee Kitty, you do get these sprits don't you.....

On the heater, my instant reaction was no, but then I stopped and thought about it and now, well I do not know.

This I do know, there is an air intake vent on the top that you do not want to block. Other wise it can't get air into it to blow around.

As far as temperatures goes, I have not tested this but this is the thinking. There is an over temp klixon type switch in the unit. By insulating the unit I do not know if they prefigured that some BTU's of heat escape from the exposed metal top/sides.

Point being, if you insulate the sheet metal it might hold enough heat to maybe trip the over temp switch.

Really do not know on this one. I however, would not insulate but this is based on intuition only.

John

PS. For sure get the plastic wheel wells. They sweat water when winter camping as it is outside temps on the other side of that wheel well and inside temps on the inside. Look in the cabinet under the panty, it’s in there.

The T310 does not have wheel wells inside as the high up slide Sunlines have different fender setups. Top of TT floor is level over the wheels so that heat leak is now not there. But I have so many windows….to make up for it.
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:06 AM   #3
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Kitty
Here is some info from an Atwood MPD 33940hydro flame TM 8500-IV Series Furnace
MODELS 8516, 8520, 8525,
8531, 8535
Technical Installation Manual

MINIMUM CLEARANCE TO
FLOORBOARDS, WALLS & SIMILAR COMBUSTIBLE BUILDING MATERIALS*
MUST BE PROVIDED THE FULL LENGTH AND WIDTH OF UNIT
HORIZONTAL TOP AND SIDES ------1/2˝ REAR --1˝ BOTTOM --3/16˝
VERTICAL TOP AND SIDES ------1/2˝ REAR --1˝ BOTTOM ------0˝(SLIDE PLATE)
Spacing of 1/4˝ to ducting within 3 feet of furnace must be provided
unless UL listed wire bound vinyl ducts are used. All ducting material
should be rated for continuous use at 200°F.
NOTE: Clearances are specifically for plywood or similar building
materials surrounding furnace (i.e. furnace should NOT be located
under furniture or in closet space where clothing or other material
could be located.)
NOTE: Furnace efficiency rating is a thermal rating determined under
continuous operating conditions, independent of any installation. Efficiency
rate is given at 77% minimum, actual efficiency rating may be higher.
*When furnaces are installed to minimum clearances, an additional 16
in2 of return air must be provided to blower side of furnace, or a 2˝
clearance the full length and height on blower side must be maintained.

CRITICAL INSTALLATION WARNINGS
• DO NOT install furnace on material that restricts return air, like carpet
or any soft material such as vinyl.
• DO NOT install furnace where clearance to combustibles cannot be
maintained.
• DO NOT modify furnace in any way.
• DO NOT alter furnace for a positive grounding system.
• DO NOT HI-POT furnace unless electronic ignition system (circuit
board) has been disconnected.
• DO NOT use battery charger to supply power to DC model furnace
even when testing.
• DO NOT use 120 volt AC current with DC models.
• DO NOT use furnace cabinet area as a storage compartment.
• DO NOT vent furnace with venting system serving another appliance.
• DO NOT vent furnace to an outside enclosed porch area.
• DO NOT use for temporary heating of buildings or structures under
construction.
• Protect building materials from degrading from flue gas exhaust.
• Protect furnace electrical components from water.

I would say based on info in Technical Installation Manual insulating around the furnace would be a bad idea.
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:05 AM   #4
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Thanks John & Bob,

I will NOT insulate around the heater, I didn't think I should, but thought I'd ask to make sure. I have put the insulation on the water pipes(hot & cold, and I have put the batt type insulation on the exterior wall where I could, and I have managed to get it up and over the wheel well under the stove area. Going out in a little while to pull kitchen drawers to put some insulation in there, and then take shower access panel off to inulate water lines under the pan, will also tackle wheel well under the fridge, and I'll also check the area under the beds behind the drawers. I'm just trying to make Sunny a little more energy efficient. While I don't really winter camp(YET), I'm thinking it won't hurt anything.

Now, I have to find those cabinet "struts" so I can install them on the new door that is over the bed. I put them someplace so I would "Know" where they were

I leave on April 4th for Williamsburg, VA to once again host the 5th annual East Coast GTG for Open Roads Singles, which I belong to.

I'ts 46.3 right now, so should be able to run the heater thru one cycle and then be comfortable to work in Sunny. I am also waiting on a wall mount to arrive for the flat panel TV so I can get the installed in the corner entertainment cabinet. I am hoping to configure it so that the TV can be swung out of the cabinet to give me access to the area behind the TV for storage, yet still allow the TV to reside just slightly inside the cabinet. If that makes any sense

Well, I better get moving, later Ya'll

Kitty
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:11 AM   #5
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Kitty,

A while back Pat (emam) posted about insulating the compartment for storing the shore line: click here

If you are going to buy a 4'x8' sheet of the rigid foam insulation that Pat suggested, I could think of a bunch of places along outside walls that could be further insulated with the leftovers in compartments and such. Floors in compartments, too.

Also, those two copper pipes in your picture that bring propane to the furnace and hot water heater could be insulated as metal is a good conductor of cold. Not all the way to the appliances, but most of the length of the pipes would help.

Now ya got me thinkin' about doing some of this to our Sunline...
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Old 03-22-2009, 08:46 AM   #6
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Thanks Steve,

I didn't even think about putting insulation on the propane lines, but I will do it now. As for the cord storage area, I put the batt insulation in it and up over the wheel well. My cord does not go into that compartment, as I have a detachable cord that stows in the outside pegboard area.

You guys are a GREAT help to me, keep the good insulating tips coming

Kitty
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Old 03-22-2009, 05:50 PM   #7
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How I spent today, here are more pics of my progress, but they don't show you my sore, scratched up arms








I need to "tidy up" the insulation some, but my arms were geting tired.

A word of caution, the hot & cold water lines running under the shower stall, well they were "rubbing" on one another so I tried to find a cure for that. And let me tell you, there is NO room to work under there. I stll have to tackle under the bathroom sink, and take a look under the twin beds to see whats under there.

Plus get my sofa mod done

Thats all for now, as I'm one tired out Kitty
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