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Old 02-05-2007, 10:51 PM   #1
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wobbly
T-1950 Brakes

A question on the T-1950 electric brakes. Do both axles have brakes?
Any comments on the performance of these trailer brakes, such as whether they are prone to fade, longevity of the linings, etc?

We found that the Jordan 2020 brake controller is no longer available and the replacement unit isn't due until summer. Think we'll go with the Sens-A-Brake controller.

Thanks!
Wobbly
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Old 02-05-2007, 11:35 PM   #2
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Hi Wobbly,

What model year is your 1950? To the best of my knowledge, Sunline has put electric brakes on all axles for a long time (back through the '70's), unless your particular unit was ordered/modified with something different. If your trailer is from the '80's, it probably has the horrible electric brake setup, so horrible that the company went out of business. Many people who buy the '80's trailers choose to upgrade the axles because parts are no longer available and because the brakes never really locked up. I'm under the impression you don't have an '80's model (the T-1950 model goes back to 1983, but very different layout), so you probably have the Dexter axles and brakes. These work very well and are quite reliable. I replaced all four brake backing plates on my '94's only because the old ones were rusty and some were not working due to the wires being pulled out. Overall, the pads were not bad after 10 years (Since I didn't own them since new, I don't know the driving conditions experienced). I still have the old ones and can use them for parts, but with a little cleaning up, I would be confident with using them again. Make sure to get underneath and check the brake wires every so often to make sure they are still connected. One of my trailers always hung to one side when stopping (just after I bought it) because one of the brake wires had been pulled out and was not working at all.

Performance wise, these brakes work well, but it all has to do with how you have them set. I don't have any knowledge of the brake controllers you have described, so I have no idea how the brakes would react with it. I have the Draw-tite Activator II (had it about 10 years) and trailer braking has a lot to do with how you set the brakes. I was in an accident one time (fortunately not pulling a Sunline!) and I didn't have the brakes set high enough. When the traffic suddenly stopped because some idiot cut into a small space, I couldn't stop all the way down to 0. No damage to the trailer and minimal to the TV (replaced with chrome anyway!!!!), but I did learn my lesson. With that trailer being a toy hauler, its surprising how much extra weight stuff can add, and this was with NO toys.

Also, they are reliable for stopping, but I wouldn't recommend riding them going down a 7% hill.

If you don't have the brochure for your model year, I'd be glad to look up the specifications for you.

Jon
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Old 02-06-2007, 09:34 AM   #3
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Hi Jon,

Thanks for all the information! Ours is a new T-1950. Our TV will be near its limits, so we'll have to be prudent with loading. It's a diesel, so there won't be any engine braking unless an exhaust brake were to be added.

The proposed brake controller has a "panic button" that mounts on the dash. Depressing the button applies 40% of maximum trailer brakes for 3.5 seconds to dampen sway. The panic button isn't adjustable, however the controller gain is. It's a proportional type with input from a pressure sensitive brake pedal pad.






Wobbly
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Old 02-06-2007, 03:57 PM   #4
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Hi Wobbly,

In that case, yours should have electric brakes on all 4 wheels. If you want to know for sure, check behind your wheels. It should look like the pic below:


If it doesn't look like this, the part which the wheels mount to would just be a small plate. The big black case seen in the pic houses the electric brake equipment.

Let me know if you have any other questions,
Jon

P.S. I'd recommend adding on an exhaust brake. You wouldn't regret it!
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
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1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 02-06-2007, 07:22 PM   #5
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Wobbly,

You stated that your 1950 was pushing your TV limits, so you'd have to load very carefully, but yet you say you are using a diesel. Are you sure you have all your weight calculations correct? Diesels are 3/4 or 1 ton and should not even know the 1950 is back there.

Kitty
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:47 PM   #6
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Wobbly

Maybe I can help some. See this link Annual Greasing and Brake inspection

That will send you over to RV.net on the towing forum. I typed that over there with pics of what the 2004 T2499 brakes setup is. Yours are most likley similar. I could not find out if you had 3,500# axles or not on your 1950.

These TT brakes are OK if they are properly maintained. They are not as heavy as automotive brakes. And they are not self adjusting. At least the ones most of us have.

After the first 200 to 300 miles from new or a brake job, you need to adjust them as they have seated themselves. After that they can go every 3,000 miles or so before a re-tweak. You can adjust them yourself or your dealer can do it. If you do not, then your brake controller has to to put out a lot more power to stoke the shoe to get the same stopping power. That first break in adjustment is very important.

If you have the manual from Sunline, they list the axle models numbers on the yellow factory sheet. Or you need to crawl under and find the axle tag or measure the brake OD. I'm "guessing" you have Dexter’s like the rest of us newer Sunline camper folks.

Dexter does have a good web site with a lot of info on it. Just you need to hone in on the size of the axle you have. Again new, Sunline included a Dexter manual in the big 3 ring binder.

http://www.dexteraxle.com/

Hope this helps

John
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanyonkitty
Wobbly,

You stated that your 1950 was pushing your TV limits, so you'd have to load very carefully, but yet you say you are using a diesel. Are you sure you have all your weight calculations correct? Diesels are 3/4 or 1 ton and should not even know the 1950 is back there.

Kitty
We'll be using an '06 Jeep Liberty diesel. The short wheelbase is a negative, but the short distance from the ball to the rear axlle is a plus.
It has a 5000# towing rating and 750# ball load rating. The Reese receiver is rated at 7500# tow and 750# ball, if a weight distributing hitch is used. The Liberty also has electronic stability program (ESP)that automatically brakes a skidding wheel. The '07 Cherokee diesel will have ESP with an added trailer stability feature to minimize sway.

Wobbly
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
Hi Wobbly,

P.S. I'd recommend adding on an exhaust brake. You wouldn't regret it!
Thanks for the picture. We won't pick up our trailer until March or April.
I'm just trying to get up on the learning curve.

I don't know if an exhaust brake kit is made for the Jeep 2.8 CRD diesel.
Torque converter lock up and exhaust valve spring stiffness are said to affect system effectiveness.

Wobbly
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