Overloaded Circuits?

[henryj]

We got a nice electric grill which I've grown quite attached to and plan to use for camping whenever possible. I would most likely plug it in outside, but in bad weather could use it on the counter or the dining table, both of which are handy to outlets.

Our CSA model already has a toggle switch to prevent use of the electric HWH and microwave at the same time and that got me wondering how easy it is to overload the circuits generally. Presumably AC and HWH or AC and microwave are ok, but not all three together. We also have a 3 setting max. 1500 W electric heater and a basic toaster. Now the grill is going to be another 1440 W. We've never overloaded anything in our home kitchen, but it also has all receptacles split.

So my questions are:
Does the Sunline have any split receptacles?
Is the counter receptacle on a different circuit than the table one?
What else can we run with AC? with HWH? with microwave?
Should I plug in the grill directly to shore power when I use it outside?
Is it possible to overload the whole trailer ie. the 30 amp cord before one circuit is overloaded?

We rarely camp with 15 amp except at my son's place where we're going in May. We just sleep in the trailer then, but do like hot water in the morning. That has never been a problem, but I'm assuming with 15 or even 20 amp only one big appliance should be used at a time??

Henry

[JohnB]

Hi Henry

I asked Sunline for a wiring diagram on my 2004 T2499 which they sent me. Hutch connected with Sarah and had it posted in the files section. Here it is. http://www.sunlineclub.com/docs/2499wiring.pdf There is the 120 VAC and the 12 VDC circuits.

Now to your questions on overloading. At home, at least on new homes following NEC rules, the kitchen has several 20 amp circuits as it is a high power area.

However our 30 amp campers are not quite wired that way. In 2004, the T2499 had 4 basic circuits to split up the loads. Each high power pre wired camper device was on it’s separate circuit to help not overload each other. You can see them on the wiring diagram. This is why the microwave and HWH can be on at once for example.

The AC unit while it is separate, if you have the HWH on electric, the fridge on electric, attempt the microwave on hi, this will be a problem.

To help prevent from overloading, all you can draw is 30 amps as all of the camper runs thru the one main 30 amp breaker. How ever you add up to the 30 amps will trip it.

Sunline did a good job of splitting up the on board 120 VAC draw for what they had to work with. And they even ran 2 receptacle circuits for 2 sides of the camper.

The galley receptacle, the one next to the sink, is on it’s own 15 amp breaker. Check that yours wired this way by using a test lamp and switching on/off the breakers to make sure it is by itself.

The rear wall receptacle by the table, has on several others items but separate from the galley.

If you put the stove cover down and put your electric griddle to run on the galley plug this should be OK providing you are not using a lot of other 120VAC items.

Basically putting it, anything that creates heat that you plug in or turn on, hair dryer, toaster, ele coffee pot, ele fry pan, portable electric heater, is one at a time.

Here is why. 30 amp supply on 120VAC is 30x120 = 3,600 watts available. How ever you add up power draw, if it exceeds 3,600 watts fairly soon the main breaker will trip. If you are on 115 VAC that is 30 x 115 = 3,450 watts available which is slightly worse.

Basically if you have the HWH on electric, it is 1,400 watts all on it’s own. Then plug in a 1,500 watt electric space heater running on hi, that is 2,900 watts all by itself. While the actual amp draw may be slightly less as they are rated full loads, it’s and easy way to count watts.

Also to keep in mind, the power converter is on all the time. It is drawing power, pretty good if the battery charging is on high, and even if the battery is topped off, it still draws power just sitting there.

During winter I run a seperate 120 lead cord into the camper jsut to dedicate to the portable electric heater. Then the toaster etc can run and no problems.

Hope this helps

John

[dkasten39828]

When we had the popup, we ran a separate 12-gauge cord in from the power pedestal, connected to the 15/20 amp outlet there. This could run our rotissieri or bread maker or 2nd space heater when needed, keeping the load off our 30 amp main.

With our hard side coach, I've been looking at installing a separate twist-lock connector for that 2nd 110 volt circuit. It would power TWO outlets... one in the galley area and one outside under the awning. This would permit the use of electric grills, skillets, etc... inside OR outside... that might otherwise trip a breaker in the coach.

They make a 15 amp and a 20 amp twist lock 110-volt outlet and the matching male plug. These could be used with a heavy duty 12 gauge cord and heavy duty 15 amp male plug to create cord set to connect to the duplex outlet found in most power pedestals. 12 gauge wire would connect the twist lock outlet to a 20 amp breaker mounted under the couch ( I have a 2499, too!) and then on to the two outlets, which would be 20 amp rated.

This little project will likely be the first one I tackle AFTER I remove my Hensley, refinish the a-frame and re-mount the Hensley with all the new hardware I got.

[Honda03842]

Actually 30 amps is a lot of power if you're not running your air conditioner.

The only time we have a problem is when we're running the electric heater on high and turn on the hair dryer or toaster at the same time.

Many electric appliances only draw power for short times, the coffee pot when heating the water, the hot water heater when initially heating the water.

We try to remember to shut off the heater when using the toaster. Sometimes we forget and have to flip the breaker.

In our small rig we find if we're cooking we don't need the heater on, a running burner provides a lot of heat.

Of course if you're using a hair dryer or a 1500 watt grill they're putting as much heat into the trailer as an electric heater.

One of the tricks is as the previous responder wrote is to figure out which outlets are on each breaker making it easy to share the loads.

Norm Milliard
1982 Sunline 15.5 SB
2004 Honda CRV

[henryj]

Thanks for the suggestions/reassurances. I missed that 2499 diagram all by itself there in the files. So knowing the kitchen/galley outlet is on it's own circuit is very helpful. Also, that just happens to be where we've always plugged in the electric heater. But it looks like we should avoid the outside outlet for hd use. I usually travel with a heavy extension cord and even have a 30 amp extension for use in Ontario Provincial Parks, so, for now we'll plug the grill directly into the power post for outside grilling.

Henry

[Trailblazer]

You may want to look at doing what I am doing to our trailer for winter camping so I can run an extra 1500 watt heater and still have capaicity to run other elcetrical items without over loading the 30amp circuit.. I have on order and am expecting to receive by the end of the week this 115v inlet which I am planning on adding to our trailer. Once installed I will wire in a separate plug which will be powered by this power inlet only. Then whenever I want or need and extra 15amps of power I can just connect up an extra power cord so I can use the extra plug in the unit. Once I have the part and figure out how to mount and wire up everything I will post some photos.

[Viking]

Henry,
We have two weeks at Killbear booked in July.
We have been there many times before, but only in a tent.
This time we will have a site at Beaver Dam with electricity for our coach.
Will we need some other connector than what we use in the U. S.?
Roar

[Honda03842]

Roar,

There are no issues plugging in.

Norm

[Viking]

Thanks Norm!
Roar

[Honda03842]

Roar,

We always carry the ability to plug into 30 amps or 15 amps. It's rare but there have been occasions where there were only a 15 amp socket available.

In our 8 years of travel only once did we run into a situation where the only outlet was 50 amps and we had to borrow a 50 to 30 converter plug.

Norm

[dkasten39828]

Trailerblazer, that is my plan as well, except I plan to use a twist-lock receptacle or inlet like this one on the coach, putting it INSIDE the present door where the main power cord is kept.

I am going to install this 30-amp Marinco ParkPower kit for the main power connection.

This will make both the coach-side connections twist-lock and both the post-side connections pull out.

[henryj]

Roar, you'll like Killbear. I've never camped there, but know the area well.

The one thing you need to check with ON Parks is that the power is rarely beside the site. It's usually a post between two large sites and you can easily require 50 ft. to reach it. If you'll need a 30 amp extension, pick it up in the US before you leave--they're about 2x the price in Canada. We always carry a 25 ft. 30 amp and a 25 ft. 12 gauge, cord that is , for camping at ON Provincial Parks.

Use this page to zoom into your campsite:
http://www.camis.com/OP/camping/maps.asp?loc=11

...as in this example for site 364:
http://www.camis.com/OP/camping/maps.asp?map=134
Halfway down the table you'll see the outlet is 13 m or about 40 ft. away.

Hope this helps... and don't forget your passports.

Henry

[Viking]

Henry,
Yup, got a 50 ft 12 gauge extension cord.
It has given us more flexibility in placing the coach on the camp site in the past.
Never leave home without it!
Same goes for passports, and in my case, the green card.
As mentioned before, camped at Killbear for the first time in 1973, and have been back many times since, but this will be the first time not in a tent., and the first trip to Canada since 9-11.
Like it a lot there, so we are looking forward to it.
When I told my son on the phone that we were going to Killbear, I heard a groan of dismay that he was not going. The kids have a lot of happy memories from Killbear.
Roar