My 2006 T299SR Sunline Solaris

[Dwntwn]

I am so pleased with this unit,just added a small deck.

[Sunline Fan]

Welcome! Kind of an unusual floorplan you have, don't see many like it. They were more common around 2002 or so, but they're still pretty rare. Looks like yours is in great shape!

[Dwntwn]

Here’s the floorplan..

[JohnB]

Hi Dwntwn,

That is a nice looking camper!!! Thanks for sharing.

I have been in one of them, a 2004 model. It is a very open floor plan. Nice countertop space. Real good storage capacity.

John

[Tweety]

Gorgeous!

[mainah]

Wow my T1700 would fit in side of that!

[Dwntwn]

Quick question,my battery is not being charged when unit is plugged in,could it be the converter?

[JohnB]

There are a few easier things to check before the converter is suspect

Try this.

Go out to the battery and turn the battery disconnect on the header behind the battery "off". Assuming it was on.

Test:
Plug the camper into 120 VAC shore power.

Go inside, turn on some lights. Do the lights work? If not, check a few other 12 VDC things in the camper, toggle the water pump, the bathroom vent fan etc. do they work?

Look at the microwave, does the display light up? This is a 120VAC appliance only and not 12 VDC.

Summary of test.

If the lights and other 12 volt DC items work, or only partly work, then the power converter is working creating some level of 12 VDC.

If the 12 volts is "not" working, the microwave should still be working, meaning that actual 120 VAC is coming into the power center.

Now what?

If the lights and other 12 VDC things are working, then there could be a few things that might be an issue "other" then the power converter in charging the battery (at least at first check).

1. There is a auto-resetting circuit breaker in the junction box on the front of the camper, sometimes corrosion of the breaker happens and it will not pass power. That auto resetting breaker is between the battery and the power converter. If it is not working, then the battery will not charge. If you are trying to get into that plastic junction box, ask first as the screws holding the cover on can be a bear to get out. There are a few tricks we can pass on.

2. Is the battery in an OK condition to retain a charge? How old is it, are any of the cells low on fluid below the cells level?

If the lights and other 12 VDC things do not work BUT the microwave does have a display lit up, then it does suggest the power converter has issues. They have gone bad before.

There are a few simple things to check before you start into deeper trouble shooting.

1. Are there any circuit breakers in the converter panel tripped or off? It needs 120 VAC to work.

2. There are 2, 40 amp (orange) fuses in the newer WFCO converters that yours should have if it was original. Some may have 30 amp green ones too. Are they blown? If those fuses are blown, they cut out all the 12 volts from going to any of the circuits and battery.

3. Check any of the other fuses.

4. Sniff in the power converter area, does it smell like burnt electrical?

If those are OK, then we need to get someone with a voltmeter/ohm meter and start doing some checking to confirm the power converter is getting 120 VAC to it, and if it is, is it creating any 12 VDC?

There is also a slim possibility that a large short happened on the 12 volts, a crossing of the 12 V + and 12 V -. Some of these newer converters shut down automatically to prevent damage if a large overload like that happens until the short is removed.

You need to rule out that the converter is just plain not working and it is not something else.

Hope this helps

John

[Dwntwn]

Thanks for the input John,next time I’m up at my trailer I’ll check it out..

[Dwntwn]

John,I found the breaker box outside the trailer,what’s the trick with the screws,they seem to be recessed .

[Dwntwn]

John,I found the outside breaker box,what’s the trick to getting the screws out, they look recessed??

[henryj]

Holes are likely clogged with dirt. Use a piece of wire or small flat screwdriver to clean holes. Then with a small Phillips--0 or 1, can't remember--feel for the slots in screw by turning gently with little pressure. If you can't feel slots, clean some more. Once the screwdriver can get a good grip, really lean on it so it doesn't slip. Buy some new longer screws with same thread and a head large enough to stay outside the box above the holes for next time.

[JohnB]

Ah the "evil screws" in that junction box strike again!

To add to what Henry stated, see this post with pics and some added info on how to get the 6 screws out and how to replace them. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...tml#post137518

Dirt loads up the pocket holes and there is a tiny phillips screw buried inside. I think the #0 phillips is the right one and long shanked enough to reach in. Make sure the screw driver is embedded in the screw tight before turning. And as Henry said, lean into it hard to not let it slip.

I just did 2 of these over the winter on other friends camper. Both fought me. The one had the head stripped out before I got to it by someone before me and the battery tray angles where in front of the screw making it worse. I had to use an 1/8" drill bit and drill the head off to get the last screw out. Then use small vise grips to unscrew the tiny stud left.

Let us know how you make out

John