See if this can help some.
First is on jacking up the camper and supporting the axles so you do not end up with shackle flop (axle & shackle drop when the equalizer shifts).
See this pic as I explain this.
You can jack up the camper on the frame and I suggest you do it like this or to the intent of how I'm showing. The camper wheels are chocked/blocked on the non jacking side to not roll away. Camper tongue/A frame can be supported by the tongue jack or hitched to the truck. Tires are still on the camper at this point. Find solid level ground or hard surface to jack up on.
1. Jack up on the frame "behind" the rear axle spring hanger. Place the jack within 1 foot of the hanger.
2. Jack until both tires clear the ground. You can be a 1" to 2" clear without issue. If you need to go a lot higher then 2" clear tire to ground, lets talk as you need to deal with the other side of the camper.
3. Place jack stands or wood cribbing on frame in front of front spring hanger and behind the rear spring hanger like you see the jack stands in the pics. You may (most likely) will need to jack up the tongue jack a little to level out the camper so the jack stands/wood cribbing will be close to equal on the front and rear hanger area.
4. You must support both axles from shifting, (the center equalizer shifting, shackles flopping down, and the axle dropping down,) before you remove the tires. Reach around or in-between the tires to block up under each axle. In the pic I used bottle jacks under the axle seat area (the U bolt plate area) as I had 2 spare bottle jacks to use and I can easily adjust to the height. You do not lift with the bottle jacks, just rest the piston rod up against the U bolt plate. I have also used wood cribbing under the U bolts. There can be a small space between the wood cribbing and the U bolts, 1/8" max 1/4" I would say. The wood blocks/bottle jack is there to stop the axle from dropping should the shackle shift and allow the axle to flop down.
5. Once axle blocking is in place, remove wheels.
6. When putting the wheels back on, have the wheels on before removing the axle blocking.
Things "not" to do.
7. Do not jack up on the axle tubes themselves. They are thin and can bend easily. The axle has a pre-bent camber setting too them. It looks bent up in the center of the axle tube, that creates the wheel camber.
8. Car ramps may cause an interference issue with black pipe dump pipes or having enough space to get the ramp under the tire. And many car ramps lift about 8" or more off the ground. You really do not want one side that high off the ground with the other side down on the ground while working under it. They do sell what is called a tire saver, a mini ramp to drive up on to change a flat tire. If they can fit with your layout, many do not lift up as high as a car ramp. But you have to be real careful when you pull off them to not bounce the low riding Sunline and hit something.
9. If you have to jack by the axle, the only place you can put the jack, a bottle jack, is under the axle seat (U bolt plate area) to not bend/damage the axle. Best is to jack by the frame.
Now to fixing your fender. Here are some more pics that may help. This camper a 2005 T2363 I was doing water damage repair on for a good friend. There is wood structure behind the plastic wheel well liner. I'm not sure your 1993 camper is "exactly" the same wood configuration, but there is structure wood behind the wheel well where it staples/fastens to the camper.
The wheel well out of the camper
Two more pics of the wheel well out of the camper
Your wheel well is pretty tore up. I myself have not yet found where you can buy a new one. I will see if I can search for them. I am also going to a RV Surplus place on Monday and will ask if they have any and what they may cost.
A repair is doable if the fender is ABS plastic. I suspect it may be but I am not sure, but I can do a test for you, possibly on Sunday or early this week to tell if solvent welding will bond. Odds are high they are ABS, as ABS does thermoform which is how the wheel wells were made. And a lot of other camper parts are made from it, black tanks, fender squirts, drain waste piping etc.
This post will explain the basics of fixing ABS plastic with the solvent weld method.
My post after a tire failure beat up my camper. The wheel wells on the larger slide campers are different. The camper siding took the beating
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...zel-18665.html
Here is another one on ABS black tank repair using Plasti-mend
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...air-14865.html
A post with pics using the fiberglass screen for reinforcement.
https://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f...tml#post155780
You can buy small sheets of ABS plastic to weld in missing pieces. You can also embed fiberglass window screen into each layer of solvent weld to make joints stronger. I have done both with good success.
Here is one place to buy ABS plastic sheets if needed in the repair
https://www.mcmaster.com/abs/
Here is another place. I selected 1/8" thick and it comes in different sizes,
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...nch%29%3A1%2F8
I have bought from both places and have had positive transactions. There are many other ABS plastic supply places also.
I will post back on what I find out on the fenders at the surplus place and if the ABS solvent weld works on the Sunline camper I'm working on now.
Hope this helps
John
Linear Mode
