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Old 07-13-2010, 12:19 PM   #1
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Water line issues

Hi. I'm a new member to this site and I'm excited to be affiliated with other Sunline owners.
Here's my problem. Just a couple of days ago while camping outside of Pittsburgh, I noticed water pouring out of the bottom rear of my TT. That's the bathroom location. Ran in to find no water on the floor, but I certainly heard it. I opened the lav vanity door and noticed the floor was a little wet near the Bypass drain valves on the floor. It was evident that the leak was (and is) between the bathtub and the exterior wall. I just couldn't see it. This is a Solaris T-2970. Question is how involved will it be to remove the tub surround and the tub to get to the leak.
Sure would appreciate advice from those of you that had a similar access problem.

-Mike
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:42 PM   #2
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Hi Mike and Welcome to Sunline Owners Club!!

Now to your water....

What year is your T-2970? This helps us hone in on how your camper may be built. Also if you add your year and model Sunline to your signature then we know all the time.

Was the running leak occurring when the tub was being used or not used?

If it was not being used then this does not sound like a drain leak but a pressure leak. Where you hooked up to city water when it happened or using he on board pump and fresh tank? And if on the city water did you have a pressure regulator on the incoming line? High incoming pressure may have stressed a Pex tubing rubber grommet that hooks to a faucet or it was loose.

The hot water heater, can you see or feel all around it? Not knowing the age the question is did it spring a leak in the tank?

I know these are generic answers but they may help spark some ideas until we now more about your setup.

To your direct question I have not had a shower or base apart but I do know EMD_Driver has removed a shower and base and knows how they are put in at least on a 2004 unit. He should be along here shortly.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:22 PM   #3
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John,
Thanks so much for the response.It's a 1999. The leak occurred with everything turned off. It's definitely a pressure leak, I was hooked up to city water, but did not have a prv installed. The kookup was shared off of a common header to 4 other units, non of which had a problem. All of the faucet connections were intact. I could hear the leak at the back end of the trailer between the rear of the tub and the exterior wall. The hot water heater is fine, no leaks. I'm certain it's either the hw or cw supply line which are downstream of the hw heater, the toilet and just beyond the bathroom lav. connections.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:08 PM   #4
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Hi Mike and welcome to SOC!

The tub surround I removed from the 2004 unit was a bear! I was hoping to save it, but it was extremely well-glued to the wallboard behind it. I'm not quite sure how the tub part is installed in your unit, but if it's elevated, you may be able to remove the cover piece of wallboard under it. You would at least get a look under the tub and may find the leak.

You said the leak was between the tub and the exterior wall. Is that the wall, where your shower valves are? Judging from the 99 T-2970 floorplan, I would have to say that the valves would most likely be on that wall....



If they are, it would probably be much easier, to go under the bottom piece of aluminum siding and look from there.
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Old 07-14-2010, 05:34 PM   #5
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Thanks for the welcome and feedback. You are all very accommodating and I'm glad to be a new member.
Now to the problem. Answer to your question...the shower valves are located below the wardrobe, not the exterior wall. The tubing routes under the vanity, behind and beside the tub and they exit below the vanity to supply the shower valves, They also tee off there and continue below the fridge and oven to the kitchen sink. So the leak is either behind or beside the tub and are totally inaccessible unless I remove the tub.
What I'm thinking to do is to cut or disconnect the tubing below the vanity and below the wardrobe, connect a pull line at one end and pull them out at the other. My concern is that the lines are clamped down as they are under the vanity, precluding me from pulling them out. If I can't, I'll try to run a fish tape or f/g rod from one location to the other and fish two new lines thru.
Your thoughts?
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Old 07-14-2010, 05:36 PM   #6
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Sorry, I re-read my reply and I meant to say that the lines exit below the wardrobe (not the vanity) to supply the shower valves.
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Old 07-14-2010, 05:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m4myka View Post
Your thoughts?

After having torn a trailer apart, I would think it to be much easier to go up under the aluminum siding. I'm not sure I can wrap my head around your idea... It may just be me...
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Old 07-14-2010, 08:20 PM   #8
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No problem. If I try to access up under the siding, how do you I suggest I remove the siding?
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m4myka View Post
No problem. If I try to access up under the siding, how do you I suggest I remove the siding?

Hi Mike

See this picture post. It shows how the siding goes on and off. Scroll down a few post until you get to no 46

Slide Floor Water Damage

The siding starts from the bottom up to take off. The start at the top and work down on campers. And on yours the bottom last piece put on, is stapled up into the bottom of the camper most likley. And you have to deal with the corner pieces.

You may be past this issue or into a correction. I'm sorry I cannot visualize the setup. I have not been in that floor plan. The siding while doable is not simple either and it sounds like the tub is even worse to get out. A wild question, any chance of very carefully cutting out the interior wall to get at the pipes and then put it back in place?

Any chances of some pics? It may help spur some ideas.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-19-2010, 07:54 AM   #10
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John,

Very impressive work on your slideroom floor repair. The photos are a great reference. Thanks for all of the follow-up from you and "EMD Driver". You people are great.
Now, to my "little" problem. I say that tongue-in cheek because it did turn out to be a little issue compared to what I thought it would be. During this past weekend, I was equipped, weapons in hand, to attack the problem. The first thing I wanted to do was to see if I could "fish" new water lines behind the tub, in the event I could not remove the water lines by cutting them off in an accessible place and pull them through from behind the tub. With a fiberglass fish stick in hand, I started to push it through the opening in the compartment below the wardrobe at the shower bulkhead, just were the pex tube exits from the area between the side of the tub and the exterior wall. I was on too much of an angle, so I opened the door in the adjacent compartment (just below the fridge) for a better angle. That compartment happens to house my fresh water pump and tank. And, voila, right before my eyes, the flexible line between the pump discharge and the cold water supply line. The crimped hose clamp to the pump adapter blew off and an open line from the cold water supply had been dumping city water in that compartment that made it's way back to the rear of the tub where I thought all of my problems were. It cost me all of 85 cents to fix it. I subsequently filled the tank and tested the entire system, which is tight as a drum....thankfully.
However, now I have to spend time to determine how much damage the floor has or will incur. That OCF flooring is nothing more than a composite wood sponge, so although the water was isolated in a hidden space, the moisture tends to wick as far as the flooring needs to absorb it. Next week But for now, I can plan trips for the rest of the season and tackle that problem later.
Thanks again!
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:34 AM   #11
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Mike, if the floor got a single incident of wetting, you may not have much of a problem. Do whatever you can to dry it out and it's unlikely that rot will set in.

What causes the rot is repeated wettings over a period of time so that the area never dries out.

Given this nice hot weather, I would open up as many interior compartments and access panels near the leak in the trailer as possible, park a dehumidifier in there, and let her bake in the sun.
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:24 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m4myka View Post
John,


Now, to my "little" problem. I say that tongue-in cheek because it did turn out to be a little issue compared to what I thought it would be. During this past weekend, I was equipped, weapons in hand, to attack the problem.

snip...
It cost me all of 85 cents to fix it. I subsequently filled the tank and tested the entire system, which is tight as a drum....thankfully.
Mike

Thanks for the kind words on the slide repair. Each of these things we continue to learn more.... And by posting I was able to help another member spot the issue before he bought his 5er and he was able to get the dealer to fix it before he took ownership. The info exchange we have here on SOC is great!!

Got a chuckle out of your armed for repair statement.... and really glad it came out simple, for the source of the leak!

If you can, stick a fan blowing into the area as much as you can for several days will help. If you can get it dried out now, you may have a fighting chance. I have no idea how long my slide floor was festering in there. I suspect it was infected the day I bought it. I had no clue to even think about looking under there..... Then 2 1/2 years later I found it....

Good luck and happy camping.

John
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:23 PM   #13
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John B, Steve & EMD Driver,
thanks for the support, time and help. I hope to "pay it forward" also.
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m4myka View Post
John B, Steve & EMD Driver,
thanks for the support, time and help. I hope to "pay it forward" also.

Glad you got it fixed!!

I am sorry, that I went MIA for a bit... Kitty has me pretty busy these days!
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