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04-24-2018, 06:19 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Well, I tried everything I could think of. It either ended up too high or the pipes weren’t long enough.
This is what I ended up with.
Yep, I gave up. There just isn’t enough room.
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__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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04-24-2018, 07:08 PM
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#22
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Hi Tommie,
I sense your frustration...bummer.
If at some time in the future you want to pursue this more, tell us this.
Does the bottom valve and gray pex all work, is it just the top part that has the problem?
If it is only the top with the issues, I may have a possible thing to see if it will fit and possibly work.
Hope this helps.
John
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__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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04-24-2018, 07:22 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Yes, frustrated. I apologize for the poor plumbing skills, LOL. I miss my stepdad. He was a plumber. I am sure he would have come up with something really quick.
The bottom will work if setup like in the first pic. But the top would have been too high because it is under the bed in the back. If I try to flip the top downward then it would be too close to the bottom connection and the pipes may have been too short (can't remember on this point). I tried several different scenarios before throwing in the towel but I think the first pic is as close as I could get. Too bad it's not in a closet.
Thanks,
Tommie
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04-25-2018, 02:45 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 125
SUN #9247
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I'm not familiar with what different threads you are dealing with, but just looking at picture I'm wondering can the base of the "T" screw into the tank to eliminate the 90 and union?
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Norm 01 T267SR
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04-25-2018, 03:03 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Hi Enormiss,
Once the bypass is installed, I then have to tie back in the two inlets (pump and city water) and two outlets (bathroom and kitchenette). The bypass only provides one inlet and one outlet. The original tees that join the inlets and outlets have all male ends. If I can find a couple of tees with two male ends and a female connection on top that may help but they did not have any at our local Lowes. I am going to search online tonight.
This is the original:
This the bypass installed and then I would need to figure out how to tie back in the two original tees that connects to the existing pipes. I hope that makes sense.
Plus not much room to work with. The bypass has to fit right next to the converter.
Thanks.
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04-25-2018, 06:40 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 125
SUN #9247
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I'm thinking like your last picture above but with the base of the "T" into the tank. Before you screw that into tank take off hoses from other "T" and join two "T's" together. You may not have room to join them when the one "T" is already in the tank but should be able to orient the assembly to spin it into tank after they are joined. Then attach the white bypass hose and supply lines. Works in my head anyway but maybe not really!
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Norm 01 T267SR
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04-25-2018, 08:07 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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I think I may have it figured out. At least I hope so. I will give it another go this weekend.
Thanks for all of the input. Much appreciated!
Tommie
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04-29-2018, 10:35 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Water Heater
OK. I think I got it now. Still really close to the power converter but it will work. I will see if I can put a barrier between the two.
Thanks,
Tommie
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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04-29-2018, 12:28 PM
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#29
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Good Job!! We knew you could do it.
Going to a 2 valve bypass setup is actually better in my opinion then the 1 valve and the check valve setup that comes with most campers. When the check valve as simple as it is stops working, then you can have no water or no bypass. The 2 valve setup is positive, the only thing to remember is which way the valves are supposed to be.
Again, great job!
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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04-29-2018, 06:59 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Thanks JohnB! I went back to the files section and re-read the documentation and tried this bypass kit. Which was cheaper than trying to get the other one to work.
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04-30-2018, 02:35 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 125
SUN #9247
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Nice job and I like your labels!
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Norm 01 T267SR
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04-30-2018, 08:33 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Thanks Enormiss! One more thing to scratch off my list.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
__________________
1987 Sunline T1550
2012 Ford Expedition EL Limited 5.4L V8, 4WD
"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do..." Mark Twain]
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