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Old 08-27-2018, 05:08 PM   #1
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Water Compartment Hatch Project/Problems

Ok..so I started the hatch project and I have a 13 x 32 hatch needing a 10-3/4 x 30 rough opening.
No problems cutting the hole it's a rough corner with water damage and outer wall delamination.
But...now I find I have not one but two lateral 1x2 aluminum rectangular tubing frame members! Great right? Except they are 8" apart vertically so I now either have to add external framing to attach the purchased hatch on to, or I need a 8" x 30" rough opening hatch door!
Suggestions welcome and stay tuned to my latest bit of drama! LOL...IMG_20180827_175624.jpg
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Old 09-01-2018, 10:12 AM   #2
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Well it's in...and personally I'm happy with it so far!IMG_20180830_135710.jpgIMG_20180830_144631.jpgIMG_20180830_144635.jpgIMG_20180830_144650.jpgIMG_20180830_153511.jpgIMG_20180830_160112.jpgIMG_20180830_162946.jpg
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Old 09-01-2018, 10:20 AM   #3
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As you can see I now have much better access to the water system despite the door being partially blocked. The red strap on the water heater is a Velcro strap to replace the plastic heat fused strap from the factory that I had to remove to repair the tank earlier this year.
Really happy I went ahead with this as winterizing and other maintenance will be much easier.
A bit of extra storage space as well!IMG_20180830_163013.jpg
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Old 09-01-2018, 08:58 PM   #4
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The access looks great! The door too.

Have a question. What are the cargo door screws, screwing into? It looks like you have used all of them, is there something with some kind of "meat" to screw into in the wall?

I did not see a frame out all the way around. And did you use putty or butyl tape to seal the door flange to the siding? It looks like there is black Gorilla tape around the door frame a little exposed. It did not look like a sealing tape setup. I thought you might of done that to help seal off the foam board.

Also you helped answer a Sunline wall construction method mystery on the Advancers. They used the white styrofoam board as insulation. They must of just glued it all together with the metal framing. That wall looks like it was made like your floor was when you got it. It is?

Thanks for sharing

John
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Old 09-01-2018, 09:26 PM   #5
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Yes on all counts.
I added either wood on the verticals or the tubing I removed on the top. There was another 1x2 (1/16 wall very thin!) as a base sitting on top of the steel base frame. I also slipped a 1/8 by 2" strip a bit longer than the width of the door and/or the cut out tube between the vinyl siding and the cut out tube at the top. It's pretty solid now when you include the bed framing also attached in that area.
Yes it was a sandwich glued together. The aluminum frame was welded first then the foam in the cavities and then the internal/external solid core underlayment (lauan? AKA Philippine Mahogany) then the internal vinyl wall paper and the external heavy vinyl siding. The biggest issue with the water invasion was delamination of the wall system as well as the floor system as you remembered!
I have one panel I have to get glue behind before it blows off as we drive down the highway!
Yes I did use butyl sealant tape all around and I also used the Gorilla tape as you guessed to cover the foam insulation but also to 'clamp' the layers together due to the delamination in that area. I pretty much removed all the delaminated part of this wall by installing the hatch so I got a two for one!
I have to say the construction of this trailer was ingenious, very light and even with water damage still very strong and nothing that is molding!
I am now noticing a weakness in the shower floor. We used the shower for the first time this week and developed a crack in the corner nearest the drain, inside rear corner. It's soft there so I am guessing the water damaged floor extends under that side of the shower. Considering how seldom we will use the shower it may well be a non-issue but I expect I will need to get the bathroom removing everything to fix that portion of floor correctly. I hesitate to invest the time when we rarely use the shower so unless more problems surface it's not on the immediate agenda! The shower is what? About 36" wide and the majority is very solid just the last 6-8 inches being at all soft.
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Old 09-01-2018, 10:25 PM   #6
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OK good deal. You sealed up the cargo hole really well. Good job!!!

Great that the dealam landed in the cargo hole area. Gotta have some good luck every once in a while...

The shower... It could be rot, but they also have been known to put a piece of styrofoam board under the shower floor to allow it to flex. I do not know what model year they started that practice. All my 2004's have it. Your styrofoam board might be disintegrated on the one end. It is the same white styrofoam looking stuff in your walls and floor. There should be a little access door somewhere to service the pipe trap. Maybe look in that hole to see what might be going on. If you cannot find any screw on access panel inside, then look under the camper for a screw on Darco cover. End of the camper corner showers have been known to use the under the floor access cover. No other way to get to the trap in the camper due to the floor plan.
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Old 09-02-2018, 06:07 AM   #7
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I know there is an access panel on the wall backside of the shower tap. Hadn't thought of one for the P-trap.
Easy way to check and possibly access for some sort of reinforcement without a complete tearout!
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:06 PM   #8
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A new thread on the ptrap would be awesome..when you get around2it!
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:18 PM   #9
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I'll see what I can do! Or some one else if they get there first!
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