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Old 07-10-2016, 03:21 PM   #1
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Sunline T-2675 completed front end roof repair with pictures

I own a sunline T-2675 which had water infiltration in the front end of the roof. Before starting the project, I greatly benefited from all the information and pictures available on this forum and have been meaning to put together a post with all of mine so that others can benefit. The repair job was completed in September 2015. Here is a picture of the very wavy roof before I attacked it.


I decided to do the work outdoors in my yard. A 60x30ft tarp was used to cover the trailer at night (and did a very good job with some very heavy rain). I also completed the job on 3 sets of scaffolding so that I could work at a comfortable height.


First job, taking things apart: remove awning screws and slide it back as I needed to get the gutter rail trim off in the area, remove sealant and trim and carefully remove staples from the edpm to lift up the front end.

Lifting the membrane, I was greeted with a very very wet budboard. No wonder the roof was so wavy. The insulation had soaked up a lot of water. I was very lucky as it appears I did the roof work before any permanent wood damage due to rot took place. Even the ceiling board didn’t have any soft spots. I let the whole thing air out in the sun all afternoon.




Notice how the trusses are made in the ‘new style’ sunline adopted in the early 2000’s. Top and bottom chord linked together with pieces of stapled in panelling. One of my trusses had split so I also did some wood repairs and added a few vertical members that I glued in to help strengthen the whole thing. I staple back in some of the luan pieces to ensure everything held on tight.




Before putting in new insulation, I decided to use a paintbrush to spread a bit of bleach over all the wood that had been exposed to water just in case any mold might have wanted to spread in the roof area. I let the whole thing dry before installing new batt insulation in between the trusses. To replace the budboard, I used 3/8 inch plywood. Once screwed in place, I used tuck tape over all the heads, wood knots and ‘square’ exterior panel edges to compensate for the job the budboard used to do. My local RV shop was able to sell me the end of a container of edpm glue which was enough for my job and great as it saved me some money and trying to figure out what to do with a huge container of the stuff. We spread it on with a paint roller before folding the membrane back in place and attempting to remove all the air bubbles.






After that, staple the membrane back to the trailer, new butyl tape between the roof membrane and gutter rail and install mostly new screws (we re-used a few when things were tight because the heads on the old screws were just a tad smaller). Reposition the awning and put the lag screws back in. Seal everything with Proflex and Dicor self-leveling sealant. Re-install the front trim + new butyl + additional sealant for weird positioning. I seem to have forgotten to take pictures of this step as I was racing against the clock as I knew we had rain on the horizon.

Initial ‘demo’, drying, re-structuring and re-gluing of the membrane, stapling and installing front frim piece was a 2 day job for 2 people with a shopping trip for missing material thrown in there.

The job of sealing the side trim was longer than originally expected as I decided that I was going to remove the full length of the Proflex sealant to re-do the whole thing. Taking things apart and re-structuring was fast-going but I found that re-sealing everything was time consuming (part of it from lack of experience, and part of it from wanting to do the best job possible). Overall I am happy with the job and it should give me a number of years of life from this roof.

Next job: removing the corner trim on the back end and tearing out part of the floor in the garage area due to the gel coat finish and plywood having been hit in the past in the bottom corner and slowly allowing water infiltration through the bottom of the wall.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:12 PM   #2
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Wow! Its wonderful when you can do these things yourself
Save yourself a bunch of money plus no one will take as much time
to do a great job as the person who owns it
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:16 PM   #3
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Hi Bee-Jen,

Great job!!! Very nice.

By the looks of the ceiling and rafters, you did the repair just in time. Waiting another 6 months to a year would of been a quantity of rot repair.

Did you find the water intrusion point or points? Front seam, side seams or side corners?

Thanks for sharing. This is good stuff to help others in the future.

One question, The Tuck tape you used on the seams, that is interesting. I can only seem to find it in Canada. The Dicor site stated to use fleece tape which we could not find when we did our sons' roof.

Is this the product? Cantech - Tuck Tape, Industrial Tapes, Construction Tapes, Consumer Tapes, Adhesives, Tape Dispensers, Hockey Tape and laces are in stock at Cantech

http://www.cantech.com/_data_/pdf/sales/205_En.pdf

Thanks

John
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:05 PM   #4
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JohnB, yes, that's the stuff. It's a very nice tape to keep handy as it doesn't seem to be affected by water or cold. I use it to tape the bubblewrap insulation around my beedhives in the winter so it's exposed to both.

For the water intrusion point, to me it seems to have been the front seam as the joint was broken and coming apart. We took the unit out once before I did the repair and I had duct taped and gorrila taped the front seam as much as possible to reduce additional water and also riding down the highway, without the structure of the budboard, the membrane just wanted to balloon up.
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:37 PM   #5
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Sold in the US as InterTape or Venture Tape sheathing tape. Sounds like it might be just as useful as EternaBond, especially for emergency repairs.
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:25 AM   #6
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Thanks

I got some water issues in our little Palomino TC to deal with, and hopefully none in the Sunny
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:57 AM   #7
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i put my repair off for long enough

Thanks to you and some other folks who have posted about their repairs. I have to do a section but it is in the back portion of the roof. I also had questions about the tuck tape but it looks like they were already answered so I will look for it locally. Did you notice any dry rot cracks on your EDPM? if so, is that why you sealed the top with Proflex and the dicor self leveling stuff?

Steve P.
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