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07-31-2016, 07:46 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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StarRay water damage repair
Started dealing with my water damage on the back end. The marker lights were the problem. I also tore out the carpet while I was at it. Water heater had to come out so I can get at the rot low in the corner. We also removed the furnace due to mouse "goop" deep inside it. All the furnace ducts were thrown out. We cut and access panel in the bathroom vanity for better cleaning and replacing the ducts. What a mess! Today I start to rebuild the "framing" around the back window.
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07-31-2016, 07:47 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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After carpet and water heater
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07-31-2016, 07:48 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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Anyone know what these valves do? Or go?
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07-31-2016, 09:01 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,846
SUN #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naterade77
Anyone know what these valves do? Or go?
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Those are your low point drains; one for hot and one for cold. You should be able to see a bit of pipe hanging down under the trailer for each one. You'll use them in the spring and fall when you de-winterize and winterize. And, any other time you need to drain the system.
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'12 F250 4x4 Super Duty PowerStroke 6.7 diesel
2011 to present: '11 Cougar 326MKS
1999 to 2011: '99 Sunline T-2453
SUN264 * Amateur Radio kd2iat monitoring 146.52
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07-31-2016, 09:18 AM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naterade77
Started dealing with my water damage on the back end. The marker lights were the problem.
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Hi,
You for sure have a "project" going. Your doing good! Thanks for sharing.
A question, as it is hard to see in your pics, you stated the marker lights are what caused all this, yes they can be a big source of water intrusion.
However, also check the corners of the camper. The pics "seemed" to look like rot started in the corners. The putty tape gets dried out, cracks and then water running off the roof beats down on the corners and can get in that way. Since you are doing so much work fixing this all up, just bringing this up you check your corner molding seals real good as they may need new fresh butyl sealing tap in the corners. If you take the corner screws out outside and rot goo or heavy rust on the screw threads are there, that is sign of potential a water entry area.
Keep up the good work and looking forward to the repaired pics.
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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07-31-2016, 10:01 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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I did think those were drain valves. I did not see the ends coming out the bottom of the camper, but I will check again.
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07-31-2016, 10:08 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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Maybe you can see better in this pic. The water came from the lights and hit the horizontal framing for the window and then seeped to the corner. That being said. All my corners need to be cleaned up and recaulked (along with everything on the roof). I am in a constant battle with how far to take this. This was a free camper. I do want it to be operational this year. But I am not doing a full restore. As much as I want to pull the corner trim and siding and do it all the right way. I jus don't feel this camper is worth that much time. My plan is to get it fixed up enough to use for a few years at the most. I am confident that what I will fix will be fine for that long as long as I keep new water from coming in.
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07-31-2016, 10:09 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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Sorry for the turned pics. I don't understand why it does that. They are upright on my phone.
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07-31-2016, 12:04 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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OK I see it better now... Ouch...
I understand the "how far do I go" comment. Water infiltration is a very encompassing situation. Will it ever end....
Your doing a great job and nice repair work. Camping will be enjoyable once you get up and going and helps melt away all the "work" to get to that point.
Thanks
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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08-01-2016, 06:58 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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Started rebuilding the rot today. I got all the rotted ends cut off down to solid wood. With the use of a multi tool and a small blade I even cut the small amount of rot I found in the floor framing in the corner. I left a little bit of rot on the side. It will be filled with West System epoxy. Then I just started replacing piece by piece. Found these little corner braces work good. Much stronger than the 2 measly staples that were the fasteners.
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08-01-2016, 07:01 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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The rot where the water heater screws will go will get the epoxy.
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08-01-2016, 07:04 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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One more of rot repair
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08-04-2016, 05:40 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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New framing is mostly done.
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08-04-2016, 05:43 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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Ready for plywood. Got two doses of epoxy in also.
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08-04-2016, 05:48 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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Ready for plywood. Got two doses of epoxy in also.
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08-05-2016, 12:49 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 488
SUN #8237
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StarRay water damage repair
Looks like a labor of love.
I'm a novice (but learning) and have a few questions. How do cabinets get reattached after a job like this? Toenailed? I see pictures of folks doing rot repair without removing the siding and thought the cabinets were attached from the outside in. And how do you remove the cabinets without damaging them if your not removing the siding?
The reason I ask is I'm considering making a bunk over my front sofa bed (which was a factory option on my trailer) but can't figure out how to remove the front upper cabinet without damaging my wall and cabinet.
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John
2000 T2370
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08-05-2016, 01:36 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maine
Posts: 48
SUN #8588
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Welcome and thanks for checking out my project. This is my first camper and I am for sure not a guru! But I was a cabinetmaker for over a decade and built and remodeled houses for years also.
To answer your question. I'm not really sure! In my case. The floor to ceiling cabinet is screwed to the floor and ceiling still. I did think about removing it permanently. Until I realized how much it was holding the back end together. So now it will stay. If the plywood on the inside is still strong you can remount stuff with cleats that are screwed into framing. Or in my case. I wil use a few longer metal roofing screws from the outside with the EPDM grommets. I did have a shelve that I had to remove to fix my water damage. Most of the ply was damaged enough the screws just pulled out. I did have to sawzall a few screws on the side wall that I am not tearing down. That side I will put a cleat underneath that is carried by screws into framing. If I had more time I would have pulled the siding I think. It is a lot of work yes. But the only way to make it seem less on the inside of you plan on keeping the walls and ceilings the way they are. In my case. The whole inside is getting all new paint and flooring.
Another method would be to cleat the non visable side of a cabinet (put cleat on the inside of the cabinet and then screw through cabinet wall from other side into cleats) with a cleat screwed only into the plywood. It is only 1/4" ply yes. But it is glued and stapled to the framing. The plywood give the camper most of its strength it seems. I would not rely on nails or toe nails. With the way camper shift during towing I would only use screws. My camper was made with pan head square drive screws of many different lengths. These can be found at woodworking stores or even big box home stores as "pocket hole screw" or "Kreg" screws. Kreg is a name brand. In fact the Kreg system of drilling shallow pocket holes to assemble woodworking joints could be very handy in the camper. Also could be another alternitive to fasting custom additions you may make for your camper.
Hope this helped! Feel free to correct or add anything else I miss (for the gurus)
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08-06-2016, 05:07 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 488
SUN #8237
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Thanks
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John
2000 T2370
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