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Old 08-04-2016, 05:48 AM   #15
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Ready for plywood. Got two doses of epoxy in also.
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:49 PM   #16
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StarRay water damage repair

Looks like a labor of love.

I'm a novice (but learning) and have a few questions. How do cabinets get reattached after a job like this? Toenailed? I see pictures of folks doing rot repair without removing the siding and thought the cabinets were attached from the outside in. And how do you remove the cabinets without damaging them if your not removing the siding?

The reason I ask is I'm considering making a bunk over my front sofa bed (which was a factory option on my trailer) but can't figure out how to remove the front upper cabinet without damaging my wall and cabinet.
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Old 08-05-2016, 01:36 PM   #17
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Welcome and thanks for checking out my project. This is my first camper and I am for sure not a guru! But I was a cabinetmaker for over a decade and built and remodeled houses for years also.

To answer your question. I'm not really sure! In my case. The floor to ceiling cabinet is screwed to the floor and ceiling still. I did think about removing it permanently. Until I realized how much it was holding the back end together. So now it will stay. If the plywood on the inside is still strong you can remount stuff with cleats that are screwed into framing. Or in my case. I wil use a few longer metal roofing screws from the outside with the EPDM grommets. I did have a shelve that I had to remove to fix my water damage. Most of the ply was damaged enough the screws just pulled out. I did have to sawzall a few screws on the side wall that I am not tearing down. That side I will put a cleat underneath that is carried by screws into framing. If I had more time I would have pulled the siding I think. It is a lot of work yes. But the only way to make it seem less on the inside of you plan on keeping the walls and ceilings the way they are. In my case. The whole inside is getting all new paint and flooring.

Another method would be to cleat the non visable side of a cabinet (put cleat on the inside of the cabinet and then screw through cabinet wall from other side into cleats) with a cleat screwed only into the plywood. It is only 1/4" ply yes. But it is glued and stapled to the framing. The plywood give the camper most of its strength it seems. I would not rely on nails or toe nails. With the way camper shift during towing I would only use screws. My camper was made with pan head square drive screws of many different lengths. These can be found at woodworking stores or even big box home stores as "pocket hole screw" or "Kreg" screws. Kreg is a name brand. In fact the Kreg system of drilling shallow pocket holes to assemble woodworking joints could be very handy in the camper. Also could be another alternitive to fasting custom additions you may make for your camper.

Hope this helped! Feel free to correct or add anything else I miss (for the gurus)
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Old 08-06-2016, 05:07 AM   #18
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Thanks
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