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Old 07-06-2014, 05:17 PM   #1
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Propane Oven

I have the Wedgwood combination propane 3 burner stove and oven. It came with the trailer and we never really use it. We're so accustomed to our Coleman.

But, It's just another one of those projects that I'm working on. Just to make sure the trailer is near to prefect.

Out of the 3 burners 2 work great. The third one has a leak right at the valve. DO NOT use #3.

As for the oven: I couldn't even get the pilot to light. So I dismantled all the propane plumbing and checked for clogs right back to the tank. I even removed the manifold where all the knobs reside and cleaning that out too.. Knowing the propane has a sweet odor added to it when being made it tends to attract spiders and those pesky little brats make webs and homes inside the pipes. So I took them all apart and use compressed air to purge all the lines. disassembled the valves and all appeared to be fine.
We know that when the pilot is on for a length of time it activates the thermal couple hence allowing the main oven burner to fire up.
I'm barely getting enough fuel to fire up the pilot. It lights slightly then dies out.

When you turn the propane back on you have to wait several seconds for the propane to purge the air and then the burners are supposed to be ready for action.

I honestly think that the main oven controller on the "dashboard" might have a problem.

Has anyone had any experiences with these systems?
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:52 PM   #2
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It has it's own pressure regulator possible it's toes up if every thing else works OK.
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Old 09-14-2014, 06:05 AM   #3
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This is an older post (and project) that I am returning to. WE have one last camping outing, believe it or not in Algonquin Park in late October as it's the Canadian Thanks Giving. Brrrr. Both our kids and all the grandkids will be on adjacent campsites to us. I really want that oven to work. Typically we don't use the TT stove or oven mainly because of the long lasting odors it can create for the TT and we seldom if ever used the oven for camping. But !!! Grandma and the 2 grand-daughters decided they want to bake something when camping this round. So grandpa has to get off his duff and git-r-fixed

I'm thinking it might be cheaper if I removed the stove/oven and take it in to a the RV shop for repair. I don't know if there is a psyche that because we take a TT into the shop that the price goes up or if we remove the problem appliance and take it in that they won't overcharge someone that has a little bit of do-it-yourself ability. I have bought many items from RV shops but never had to them do any repairs for me as I do my own. As for propane, I want the repairs done by a certified tech.
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Old 09-14-2014, 06:50 AM   #4
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That's what I would do it's an easy job. Buy a 3/8 copper pipe plug before you take it out and plug the line that would make it impossible to fill the camper with gas and make sure nothing could get into the gas line while the stove was out.
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:16 AM   #5
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Great suggestion for safety sake but I'll be completely disconnecting both tanks while the stove is in the shop, that way no second guessing. But I might tape off the pipe just because of any pesky critters that decide to crawl in
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:54 AM   #6
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JerryJ,

This picture shows where the previous owner just plugged the gas line after removing the stove and replacing with new counter top.

I was going to put range top burners back (he gave me the range) however, I have gotten accustom to the counter and can always use my Coleman inside if the occasion arises.

My '83 T-1550 came with a 3 burner range top but no oven.

I would think that stand-a-lone ovens are also available. May want to cost compare as to repairing the Sunlines oven.

P09-09-14_0813_zpsc8436966.jpg Photo by bunjin-gi | Photobucket
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Old 09-16-2014, 05:55 AM   #7
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We thought about a few things like that too. First, we'd like to keep it all as original as possible and if it stays, then it should work. Not to mention she wants to cook with the two grand daughters. Secondly, if we ever did sell, then it's an added feature for a weeny trailer and it works 100%. Any negative could bring a value of anything down.

When I open the top deck of the stove and on into the oven, there's not a lot going on aside from piping and valves, I know the one burner has a leak right at the OFF/ON valve, so replacing that valve is no biggy.
But as far as the oven is concerned it's either the regulator on the inside-rear of the oven or the oven selector valve (at the knob).

I'm seriously thinking that if I replace the regulator I should be fine. I may be just over thinking the problem. Just make sure everything is sealed with proper propane-pipe tape, using soap to check for leaks. Check to see that the dealer has all these parts before I engage and I should be good to go.

I'll check prices and availability and let you guys know the results. If you guys see your headlines that read "local T1350 owner lands on the moon due to propane issue" then you'll know something went awry.

Who said being retired isn't fun????


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Old 09-16-2014, 04:17 PM   #8
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I spent the whole day removing and cleaning both the thermostat and the regulator. (thermostat/control knob on the front panel). The thermostat had some junk around internal pieces and I thought for sure there lay the problem. I cleaned all that stuff down with a solvent used for a car's MAF sensor. The regulator was clean as a whistle. Everything moved as it should and being VERY CAREFUL. I blew through all propane lines and there was no blockages. I went to my local RV dealer and he told me that the regulator is no longer available and the thermostat (sitting down?) was $250.00.
ok, so scratch that.

I removed the actual oven burner (that long tube where the pilot is) Carefully, I lite the end of the pilot fuel source/pipe and the oven burner fuel source/pipe, one at a time.
Both lite no problem and because they were not jetted properly they burned black sooty. That would be normal until we introduce the proper jetting.

Correct me if I'm wrong but that tells me that the thermostat is working fine. The propane is getting to both its intended destinations. Pilot & burner.
There are no blockages in the pilot burner so why am I not getting fuel out to the end of the pilot so to activate the thermal couple?
Nothing broken, nothing seized, no leaks.

BTW I managed to find that leak in the one burner. One of the hold down screws that holds the valve body onto the manifold was loose. Tightened that up and now all 3 burners are perfect
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Old 10-01-2014, 03:14 PM   #9
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Please forgive me for beating a dead horse.
There seems to be no parts available for this Wedgewood stove/oven.

I really do want to have the oven to work. The 3 burners work just perfect.

Just thinking on the theory of operation on the oven....
The gas manifold feeds the 3 burners and then at the end of the manifold it feeds the propane oven thermostat.

There are 2 gas lines coming out of the thermostat, one feeds the pilot directly and the other goes directly to the pressure regulator the feeds the main burner after the thermocouple says it's ok to fire up. (of course there is also the temperature sensor from inside the oven that feeds back to the thermostat)

I turn on the oven to pilot-on mode. I try to light the pilot...nothing.

1) Looking at the way the theory of mechanics of this unit are laid out. The way my unit is plumbed there should be gas that comes instantly from the thermostat control to the pilot orifice at the burner (as long as it's in pilot-on mode-push and wait). When lit instantly, that pilot flame lights and heats up the thermocouple, which in turn allows the main burner to fire up. Does that sound correct? If that is correct then my thermostat is toast.

2) Other systems I have seen on youtube show how you heat up the thermocouple and when the thermocouple opens it allows the pilot light to fire up and then in turn the main burner. So, two different systems. Would you agree?

Mechanically, it looks like my pilot is fed directly from the thermostat (or panel control knob) and NOT via the thermocouple.

I have had the main thermostat apart several times looking for obvious dirt, including specs of dirt, worn or broken pieces etc. Everything appears ok. All ports seem to be clear with no blockages using an air line I get free flow through all ports. One of my burners had a leak. When disassembled I found the tiniest spec of dirt on the valve surface, cleaned that off and now that burner works beautifully. It meant that the valve was not closing 100%, hence the leak.

I found some RV shops won't give us the time of day and that we would have to book an appointment pay the $100 or $200 for answer we already know. "Yuuuup, this part is bad but no parts available"

If you guys agree with my assumption on theory then all I can do is keep my eyes open for a good used thermostat (main panel control).
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Old 10-01-2014, 04:26 PM   #10
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Found this on ebay. This guy rebuilds vintage thermostats.

O'Keefe Merritt Wedgewood etc Thermostat Rebuilding Two Years Warranty | eBay
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Old 10-01-2014, 04:35 PM   #11
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Thank you very much. I'll definitely check that out
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Old 10-01-2014, 04:48 PM   #12
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I think in order to get the pilot to light you have to push and hold the the knob in while lighting the pilot light then hold it in until the pilot stays lit. Mind you I only used my oven maybe twice but I kind of remember having to push the knob in to get it lit.
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:51 PM   #13
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Thanks Mainah. I've tried that more times than you can shake a stick.

I was a certified Propane tech back in the 1970s but even so, none of us are perfect and I have probably forgotten more than I learned but the basics still stick. I was wondering if there's a common known problem on these thermostats. Weird, I have checked everything. No hints of spider webs.

When everything looks ok it makes things worse (I'm going bald trying figure this one out) especially when there are no parts to be found.
I sent an email to that place that Jim recommended so we'll see what they say.
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Old 10-01-2014, 08:39 PM   #14
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Jerry, your theories of operation are correct, and you've troubleshot this correctly. You have a bad 'stat. Hope you can find one or get yours rebuilt.
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Old 10-02-2014, 06:32 AM   #15
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Thanks Mathew, sometimes that little confirmation makes a difference. Now for scouting around, thanks to Jim for his lead too.
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Old 10-02-2014, 09:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim44646 View Post
Found this on ebay. This guy rebuilds vintage thermostats.

O'Keefe Merritt Wedgewood etc Thermostat Rebuilding Two Years Warranty | eBay

I sent an email to the company and talked to Terri. He/she told me that they wanted pictures as well as the make, model and SN. I told them exactly how it worked what was happening and what was not happening. They, too, agreed with my assessment.
That said they do not have any parts to rebuild it. So, I'm hangin out to dry, so to speak. I guess I have exhausted almost every avenue aside from finding a used one at a junk yard, flea market or yard sale.

Thanks to all who contributed...not for the lack of trying
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Old 10-03-2014, 07:18 AM   #17
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If there is a RV place some where near you I would suggest giving them a visit they often have units that have been removed that had cook tops installed. At one point I had two of them my self. There are several RV scrap yards on line I don't know if they would sell parts from one simpler to ship a control than an oven but it maybe worth a try.
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Old 10-03-2014, 07:50 AM   #18
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Quote:
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If there is a RV place some where near you I would suggest giving them a visit they often have units that have been removed that had cook tops installed. At one point I had two of them my self. There are several RV scrap yards on line I don't know if they would sell parts from one simpler to ship a control than an oven but it maybe worth a try.
I already tried that. We have several RV dealers in our area. They tell me that to store used parts is more trouble than it's worth. One guy even said that when an older TT comes in, maybe as a trade, they sell them off for hunters for the bush. I've seen some being sold for back yard sheds or a play house for kids, more so in country properties. The hunter usually buy "as is". Typically, hunters don't care about interior appointment or what works in a TT.

Even if a person bought a used part, most people want some kind of warranty, at least to know that it works and for the prices involved not worth their effort. If the item fails to work then it's their time to refund or having a parts guy explain why or what went wrong.
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Old 10-03-2014, 04:20 PM   #19
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Is this it?Atwood Wedgewood Oven Control Valve 57294 - $44.49
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Old 10-03-2014, 07:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post

First of all, thanks Mainah for going the extra mile. much appreciated.

Obviously there's only one angle seen on it and it doesn't look like mine. But what I will do is contact this company with MY make and model# and pics of mine.

However just because it doesn't look like mine doesn't mean it won't work. Pilot supply line and a main burner supply must be fairly universal I think my issue might be the input from the manifold.
Thanks for the research. I'll check it out and let you know.
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