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05-07-2009, 08:05 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 211
SUN #527
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Leak Repair Advice
I'll get some pictures of the actual damage up in the near future, but here's the situation:
There are a couple old leaks on the upper front corners of my TT, just in front of the overhead storage (above the table). I am pretty sure that one window just below one of the old leak areas (next to the door) is also leaking now and below the window the wall is soft. I'm thinking I have a good bit of repairs in front of me. I'll probably tear out the interior walls and ceiling in the front 1/3 of the camper and I expect there to be some studs that are rotted. Can I do all this from the inside? Last year I resealed all the roof seams (aluminum roof) with Eternabond and some other areas with Dicor so I am confident that the roof is good to go. I don't want to have to undo the seal work I did on the roof to complete the interior repairs
Of course, I won't be able to match the paneling, so I think I will either find something that complements the existing, or go all the paneling new/old with a coat of paint (I'm leary of how that might look though).
I will replace all the insulation in the process. Is there anything else I should consider doing when I have this opened up? Any other suggestions that would be helpful as I prepare for the job?
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1988 Saturn T-1550 (sold 6/10)
2004 Solaris T-1950 (sold 5/14)
2007 Solaris T-276SR (sold 3/20)
2020 Forest River - No Boundaries 19.8
2013 Toyota Tundra Crewmax (sold 7/21)
2021 Ford F-250 CrewCab
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05-07-2009, 08:52 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 351
SUN #549
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Scott,
Every coach I have been in appeared to be assembled "inside-out". With yours being a slightly older model, things might be different, but I honestly doubt it.
Anyway, what "inside-out" means is that the floor is laid first, then the outside walls are attached as assemblies (studs & interior paneling), and then the roof is dropped on as an assembly (studs & interior paneling). Interior walls, partitions, and some cabinets are attached from the outside. Insulation, siding, doors, windows & exterior trim are attached last.
What I'm getting at here is that the best way to perform these repairs is from the outside. With walls, it's pretty easy to remove the trim and siding, carefully store them, do your work and put it all back. The roof is going to be a bit more difficult.
You may want to take a look at some of my posts from last year when I repaired the rear of my 2363. There's quite a bit of pictures that should give you an idea of what you are up against.
- Frank
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05-08-2009, 05:09 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 211
SUN #527
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Thanks Frank. That's what I am afraid of. I suppose, I should be able to start tearing out from inside and then remove outer skin if needed.
I had seen your repair post...looks like it was quite a project, and it turned out nice.
__________________
1988 Saturn T-1550 (sold 6/10)
2004 Solaris T-1950 (sold 5/14)
2007 Solaris T-276SR (sold 3/20)
2020 Forest River - No Boundaries 19.8
2013 Toyota Tundra Crewmax (sold 7/21)
2021 Ford F-250 CrewCab
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05-08-2009, 08:19 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 351
SUN #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottK
Thanks Frank. That's what I am afraid of. I suppose, I should be able to start tearing out from inside and then remove outer skin if needed.
I had seen your repair post...looks like it was quite a project, and it turned out nice.
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Thanks. It was a bit of work, but honestly it wasn't that bad at all.
If there's anything we can do to assist, please feel free to ask.
- Frank
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05-08-2009, 10:52 AM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,654
SUN #89
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Hi Scott
Frank is one of our reconstruction artists.... we have another one here on SOC who tore his entire front all off too. I can't recall his screen name but it looks like new camper now. It is in the tech forums somewhere. He had blue sky when he took the front end off. Those pic might help point to how the front was put together.
I can add this lead if you come to need it
http://www.rotdoctor.com/
I have seen this used before in TT rebuilding like if you get into the floor joists and the boards are still intact but you can see some rot coming. They treat it with Rot Doctor to stop the rot action. I myself have never yet had the opportunity to need it or use it. And hope I don’t…
Good luck and please post progress.
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
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05-08-2009, 12:08 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Maine
Posts: 160
SUN #379
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I'm redoing a 1977 15 SC and I've stripped the entire interior out of it from the inside. It's not too difficult to do, although I wasn't saving much. When I go to reassemble the interior, I'll need to modify the method of attaching the interior furnishings to the walls, but it'll be easy to do. The only tough thing I've run into is the rot in the wall framing in the rear of the coach. I'll probably need to remove the skin on the back of the coach to repair the damage. I'll probably be tacling that in a couple of weeks, and I'll keep you informed as I go.
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Chris & Tara
Ben & Jerry (The 2 Beagles)
2017 F-150 Crew Cab
2003 2570
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