New framing for rear window - 1550

frank_a · 05-02-2013, 10:29 AM

Yesterday I spent most all day trying to figure out how to replace the internal wood structure for the back window in our 1550. My basic problem is I do not have anyplace indoors to work, so needed a spell of decent weather, which thankfully, has just arrived. Still, I did not feel comfortable doing this repair the way it should be done - by removing the rear skin and rebuilding the entire structure. I was limited to what I could do without removing the exterior panels. I removed all the rotted wood (and then some), and slowly figured out what and how to replace it. I was successful, and trust me, this window is sealed REAL well. In fact, I used to runs overlapping of butyl tape on top, and then squeezed it in anywhere on the sides where it looked like it might need it.

I still have the interior to do, but believe I will accomplish that with a piece of luan cut to exactly the size of the rear area around the window and staple it in place. Then I can put the screen in. I'm under some pressure to be done by Memorial Day weekend, as we have reservations at Four Seasons Camping Area (Four Seasons Family Camping Area | Maine Camping in the Long Lake - Sebago Lake Region) at Naples up on Long Lake, north of Sebago Lake in Maine. Once this repair is done, I need to install a new element in the hot water heater, replace the bypass tube on the back of the hot water tank, and flush the anti-freeze out of the system.

I hope all you folks are doing well!

Frank

**JohnB** · 05-02-2013, 08:44 PM

We see your back at it again Frank. Good for you.

Remember we like pics....

Best of luck to you

John

**Sunline Fan** · 05-03-2013, 12:34 AM

Hi Frank,

Even though I haven't taken a whole wall apart before, I don't think removing the skin is all that intimidating. As long as you're in a safe neighborhood, tarp the rear end closed when you aren't working and it should be OK. It would make things much easier, because remember, each piece of metal is stapled along the top and bottom at every stud, so trying to remove from the inside would be much more challenging.

Even if you don't pull the siding, I'd pull the corner strips and retape them to ensure that's sealed up with new tape (since things will probably flex some in disassembly), along with resealing the window of course.

frank_a · 05-03-2013, 04:47 AM

Tearing the outer skin off the back is intimidating to me!

We have a safe neighborhood here, and let's face it, this is a 30 year old trailer. Security is not my concern. I worry more about mice!

When you say the corner strips, you mean at each side of the back, where the molding curves up to the ceiling? And when you say tape, you mean butyl tape?

This job is done for right now, as there is too much going on this month to tear it down after I spent a day repairing it. I need to clean up the inside and that will take maybe half a day, maybe more. Plus I have other things I need to do to get the trailer ready for a haul up to Maine for Memorial Day weekend.

We have a plan for an enclosure for the Sunline, but a number of things need to be done to accomplish it, along with enough $! Maybe by the fall.

Thanks for the tips. Maybe some pics later this weekend.

Frank

frank_a · 05-03-2013, 07:54 AM

Okay, here's some pics. First is the inside, where I replaced the entire bottom, half the top and the right side upright (in the pic, that is on the left side).T he top and bottom pieces are glued and screwed to existing good wood.

Next is the outside. I still need to do a bit of toothpick work on some screw holes so I can draw the screws in tight. Then I will replace the plastic covering.

Next is a shot of the north side of the house. It's about 26' wide, with a large firewood crib, some firewood on a pallet covered by a tarp, and in between a stack of about 500 bricks. That would all have to be moved, then graveled and an enclosure of some kind be put up. It gets very little sun there.

Next is the western edge of the pole barn that sits directly opposite the north wall of the house. I think I could get a contractor in there to level it a bit, then put in a gravel bed, and maybe get some sort of an enclosure that would use the side of the pole barn. It would also be easier to get the trailer in and out, except that it would have to be backed up a bit of a slope when storing.

For having 6 acres of property, my choices for storage are severely limited. If my property was flat with no wetlands, things would be different...

Frank

**Sunline Fan** · 05-05-2013, 10:09 AM

Hi Frank,

Yep, the metal strips on the very outside corners of the trailer that wrap up to the roof. They have butyl tape behind them and they're screwed in every 6" or so. You'll have to remove all of this to take the skin off, but it's a good idea to seal it up good with new tape to prevent a future leak or present leak that still exists.

Boy your back aluminum sure is shiny! Don't see many with a shine like that left on them.

frank_a · 05-06-2013, 08:30 AM

What I found with the window was that existing screw holes do not allow me to tighten the screws sufficiently to get a good seal, even with a couple wooden toothpicks in the holes. Larger screws have larger heads, and I'm not sure I could fit the plastic trim over them. I have the same concern about doing the side pieces per your suggestion (the screws would not draw tight). I really need to figure out a way to get this under cover this coming fall/winter, tear the entire back off and rebuild it.

Thanks for the tips. I'll keep ya posted.

Frank